This is a pain in the ass with my car and ebay. I have written in here about my cars check engine light/fuel pump relay delaying for several seconds to over a minute before it goes out and energizes the relay to start the car. I bid on an ECU in ebay a week ago, it had not arrived so I wrote the seller yesterday to see where it was. He said he had been trying to reach me an said the listing was in error.
I bid on a 37820-pr4-a14 m/t ecu for 91-92 1.8L acura integra. he said it was supposed to be 37820-pr4-a10. And I am guessing for a manual tranny for a 91-92 Integra. My car currently has a 37820-pr4-a11 ABJ ECU. I was going to write back to make sure it was still for a M/T integra, but now I am curious as to what you guys think.
I think this is a bastard car that has been engine/ecu swapped. I think it was a VTEC 92 GS-R car with the 1.7L engine. It still has the badging on the outside, but with a 1.8L engine with the above mentioned ECU. I even hate asking because maybe, almost any ECU for a M/T would work in this car, or maybe it can only be obd0 or obd1 and engine/body electrical specific!
So if you have any suggestions other than blowing it up, I would really appreciate them. Since this guy listed it wrong, I can cancel it without any repercussions on not buying and get my money back or go ahead with his corrected part/ID number on the ECU. In the mean time I am going to ask for more specifics as to the type tranny, what years it covers and the full serial number on it. Again, mine has ABJ on it and A11.
91 and 92 will be 2 different ecus. 92 was the crossover to obd1.
if the ecu didn’t match the distributor, the car would not start. so i didn’t bother to mention it, seeing as how your car starts.
the 2 connectors coming from the distributor, 1 is a 2 pin, the other a 7, are they round white plugs? or gray square ones?
[QUOTE=welfare;2164655]91 and 92 will be 2 different ecus. 92 was the crossover to obd1.
if the ecu didn’t match the distributor, the car would not start. so i didn’t bother to mention it, seeing as how your car starts.
the 2 connectors coming from the distributor, 1 is a 2 pin, the other a 7, are they round white plugs? or gray square ones?[/QUOTE]
They are the aray square ones. Does the obd1 have th elight in the middle of the ECU? Mine currently doesn’t and wondered if that was one way to tell the obd0 apart from the obd1. I guess that also explains the yellow junkyard number paint on the current ECU. Oh well, it’s all I have to work with.
So anything with the numbers on the ecu as far as the A numbers go, you know A10, A11, A14 and on…? And anything as far as working with the 1.8 or 1.7 engines separately?
okay, so i looked up the ecu id #'s on this site http://www.hondata.com/techecuid.html, while there is also information on your question of auto or manual id,
it shows a 92 integra as having the p74 ecu, while the pr4 is of 90-91 obd0.
the gray square plugs on your distributor are an indication that you are running an ob1 engine (or at least the distributor), and the harness is still the original obd1 vtec harness. .
so, according to that site, and the information you’ve provided, you have the wrong ecu. should be p74.
typically, from what i’ve seen, the rotor on the distributor is phased differently between obd0 and obd1 hondas (giving different timing points). maybe integras are phased the same between the 2 variations and this is why you’re able to start the car.
it’s a shame you can’t get a hold of a test ecu, because though it does certainly point towards it, i wouldn’t want to feel responsible if this didn’t end up solving your problem. like i said before, tough to say without seeing it personally when so much has been messed with
[QUOTE=welfare;2164675]okay, so i looked up the ecu id #'s on this site http://www.hondata.com/techecuid.html, while there is also information on your question of auto or manual id,
it shows a 92 integra as having the p74 ecu, while the pr4 is of 90-91 obd0.
the gray square plugs on your distributor are an indication that you are running an ob1 engine (or at least the distributor), and the harness is still the original obd1 vtec harness. .
so, according to that site, and the information you’ve provided, you have the wrong ecu. should be p74.
typically, from what i’ve seen, the rotor on the distributor is phased differently between obd0 and obd1 hondas (giving different timing points). maybe integras are phased the same between the 2 variations and this is why you’re able to start the car.
it’s a shame you can’t get a hold of a test ecu, because though it does certainly point towards it, i wouldn’t want to feel responsible if this didn’t end up solving your problem. like i said before, tough to say without seeing it personally when so much has been messed with[/QUOTE]
Thanks, will look at this tomorrow and make a better decision. This really helps
[okay, so i looked up the ecu id #'s on this site http://www.hondata.com/techecuid.html, while there is also information on your question of auto or manual id,
it shows a 92 integra as having the p74 ecu, while the pr4 is of 90-91 obd0.
the gray square plugs on your distributor are an indication that you are running an ob1 engine (or at least the distributor), and the harness is still the original obd1 vtec harness. .
so, according to that site, and the information you’ve provided, you have the wrong ecu. should be p74.
typically, from what i’ve seen, the rotor on the distributor is phased differently between obd0 and obd1 hondas (giving different timing points). maybe integras are phased the same between the 2 variations and this is why you’re able to start the car.
it’s a shame you can’t get a hold of a test ecu, because though it does certainly point towards it, i wouldn’t want to feel responsible if this didn’t end up solving your problem. like i said before, tough to say without seeing it personally when so much has been messed with.]
Ok, I see what you mean about the p74 ecu. I notice a p75 too, are they similar or too different and should look for the p74? Apparently the p74’s are hard to find, nothing on ebay. Will check this and other forums and see what might be for sale for a reasonable price since it really is a test!
It does sound like a strange combination in my car to have an obd0 ecu and an obd1 distributor and have it still start and run. Hoping the odd combination is what is keeping it from starting right up and getting the ecu to match the engine/distributor will fix that problem.
That information is incorrect, 90-93 are all pr4, but 90-91 are obd0 and 92-93 are obd1. The 92-93 rs/ls/gs did NOT come with a p74 ecu.
What is your VIN? That will determine the year and model for your car, no sense in trying to figure it out based on what parts are on the car.
Since your current ECU does not have the light on it, and the car was actually running, that tells us that your car is obd1. Without more info I can’t tell you if it was originally obd1 or if it has been converted. Since the car is currently running obd1 you will want a 92-93 manual trans pr4 ecu. It should be quite easy to find.
I do see a mix of ecu’s with the 92 integra though and is confusing.
PR4: 92-93 OBD1 integra acura rs/ls/gs dohc
P74: 92-95 OBD1 integra ls/gs (1.8L B18B )
P75 is the same as the P74
Found this at pgmfi.org Grassroots ECU Developement,don’t know about accuracy compared to what you looked up, but there seems to be 3 eligible ecu’s for my car. What are your opinions about those three?
That information is incorrect, 90-93 are all pr4, but 90-91 are obd0 and 92-93 are obd1. The 92-93 rs/ls/gs did NOT come with a p74 ecu.
What is your VIN? That will determine the year and model for your car, no sense in trying to figure it out based on what parts are on the car.
Since your current ECU does not have the light on it, and the car was actually running, that tells us that your car is obd1. Without more info I can’t tell you if it was originally obd1 or if it has been converted. Since the car is currently running obd1 you will want a 92-93 manual trans pr4 ecu. It should be quite easy to find.
yeah, i figured it wouldn’t start if he was running an obd0 ecu with obd1 components, and vise versa. though i’ve never tried on an integra, so can’t say for sure.
just curious though, if a pr4 is good for 90-93, how do you know whether it is of obd0 or 1? character on the id i suppose?
[QUOTE=rnoswal;2164933]I do see a mix of ecu’s with the 92 integra though and is confusing.
PR4: 92-93 OBD1 integra acura rs/ls/gs dohc
P74: 92-95 OBD1 integra ls/gs (1.8L B18B )
P75 is the same as the P74
Found this at pgmfi.org Grassroots ECU Developement,don’t know about accuracy compared to what you looked up, but there seems to be 3 eligible ecu’s for my car. What are your opinions about those three?
thanks again
Russ[/QUOTE]
Again, that info is just plain old incorrect. 92-93 Integra is pr4. They should all be interchangeable for the most part. I’m not 100% sure what the differences are, but they’re minor, the major mapping should be the same. If you were going to be tuning the ecu then it wouldn’t matter at all but if you’re going to run it stock then just get a pr4 as you know it’ll work.
[QUOTE=welfare;2164966]yeah, i figured it wouldn’t start if he was running an obd0 ecu with obd1 components, and vise versa. though i’ve never tried on an integra, so can’t say for sure.
just curious though, if a pr4 is good for 90-93, how do you know whether it is of obd0 or 1? character on the id i suppose?[/QUOTE]
It’s specifically that the distributor and ecu must match. Also, you mentioned before being able to tell the dist by the color of the plugs. That is generally true, however you can “repin” a distributor with different plugs if the car has undergone a conversion. As darius said, and as it’s shown on the page you linked to, you just LOOK at the ecu to see if it’s obd0 or obd1, they look completely different, and use a different style of plug. You can’t plug an obd1 ecu into an obd0 main harness, and vice versa.
[QUOTE=Colin;2164985]Again, that info is just plain old incorrect. 92-93 Integra is pr4. They should all be interchangeable for the most part. I’m not 100% sure what the differences are, but they’re minor, the major mapping should be the same. If you were going to be tuning the ecu then it wouldn’t matter at all but if you’re going to run it stock then just get a pr4 as you know it’ll work.
Wow, this is getting deeper and in to the very part of it I like. My cars vin# is JH4DB238XNS000753
and is a 2/92. I have the Haynes manual and it isn’t much help in identifying anything from the vin number. Ok, so are we all in agreement now that a PR4 ecu is the only ecu for the 92-93 integra? Can anyone tell if a 2/92 fits the 92 of the years for the pr4. Now my connectors in the passenger footwell are 3 plugs as in obd1, but the other, and probably insignigicant difference is that my car has the metal plate covering the ecu where I have seen that a plastic cover might have supposed to be the type cover. But it may just be a difference in cover material and nothing more?!
It’s specifically that the distributor and ecu must match. Also, you mentioned before being able to tell the dist by the color of the plugs. That is generally true, however you can “repin” a distributor with different plugs if the car has undergone a conversion. As darius said, and as it’s shown on the page you linked to, you just LOOK at the ecu to see if it’s obd0 or obd1, they look completely different, and use a different style of plug. You can’t plug an obd1 ecu into an obd0 main harness, and vice versa.[/QUOTE]
Ok, well I am going to say obd1 then, next tho is the light in the middle of the cover of the ecu…anyone know about when those showed up? I thought according to my manual that it was a Legend ecu that had the light, but don’t need to get into Legend stuff. There are pr4’s available. Now the question is about the 3 digits after the pr4 and I know I need one for a manual tranny. Will the 3 letters like on mine “ABJ” make any difference?
It is easy to ask these questions and I know it is hard to answer them when nothing is for sure about what has been changed in my car. I can’t thank you guys enough for helping me so far. I will keep trying to answer your questions tooas best that I can to get this car running right.
[QUOTE=rnoswal;2165017]Ok, well I am going to say obd1 then, next tho is the light in the middle of the cover of the ecu…anyone know about when those showed up? I thought according to my manual that it was a Legend ecu that had the light, but don’t need to get into Legend stuff. There are pr4’s available. Now the question is about the 3 digits after the pr4 and I know I need one for a manual tranny. Will the 3 letters like on mine “ABJ” make any difference?
It is easy to ask these questions and I know it is hard to answer them when nothing is for sure about what has been changed in my car. I can’t thank you guys enough for helping me so far. I will keep trying to answer your questions tooas best that I can to get this car running right.
Thanks
Russ[/QUOTE]
Also, you should get rid of that shitty ass Chilton/Haynes, and grab a real factory service manual. If you do a quick search of google, you can find one within seconds for download, or if you’d like to pay for a copy, go to helmsinc.com for a printed/bound version. You’ll find all this info in the factory manual, and it will all be specific to the DA, not a Legend too, lol. Lastly, any OBD1 LS ecu will work (PR4, P74, and P75), hell you could even run a P28/P61/P72 (OBD1 VTEC ecus) if really needed. But if your car is a 92-93 (doesn’t matter if GSR body or not), and running B18A1, an OBD1 PR4 would be the most ideal
[QUOTE=rnoswal;2165017]Ok, well I am going to say obd1 then, next tho is the light in the middle of the cover of the ecu…anyone know about when those showed up? I thought according to my manual that it was a Legend ecu that had the light, but don’t need to get into Legend stuff. There are pr4’s available. Now the question is about the 3 digits after the pr4 and I know I need one for a manual tranny. Will the 3 letters like on mine “ABJ” make any difference?
It is easy to ask these questions and I know it is hard to answer them when nothing is for sure about what has been changed in my car. I can’t thank you guys enough for helping me so far. I will keep trying to answer your questions tooas best that I can to get this car running right.
Thanks
Russ[/QUOTE]
The light is used to check codes and is only on O’Brien ecus. With obd1 you check using the cel. You’re making this much more complicated than need be. You should easily be able to find the right ecu online.
Do some Google searches If you are paranoid about accidentally getting an auto Trans ecu. From a basic and unrelated search I did this morning I stumbled across someone talking about the coding on an auto ecu. It should be pretty easy to research.
[QUOTE=Colin;2165034]The light is used to check codes and is only on O’Brien ecus. With obd1 you check using the cel. You’re making this much more complicated than need be. You should easily be able to find the right ecu online.
Do some Google searches If you are paranoid about accidentally getting an auto Trans ecu. From a basic and unrelated search I did this morning I stumbled across someone talking about the coding on an auto ecu. It should be pretty easy to research.[/QUOTE]
If this was a completely stock car, you are right, it would not a problem but just like the ram in your 3 year old computer isn’t compatible with your brand new computer, I am just asking that very question. Does anything fit and work if it has the same plug ins for this cars ecu? If so then no problem, I am just a bit nervous because that is not the case! I was asked before about any codes in my car before I go any further in my quest to get this car running right! I checked and there were none, now I did remove the battery leads which are supposed to reset those codes, I got the car running, didn’t drive it, ran it until the fan came on. Checked the codes again…none. But, there is something wrong. The engine works fine, the distributor has great spark, the fuel delivery system and control is the problem.
If I had a bunch of ecu’s laying around, I would stuff them in and try to see if there was a difference, since I don’t have that option, I am asking about ECU’s and what will work on the car I have. According to the vin, it should have a 1.7 engine in it, it has the 1.8, the ecu has been changes as well. I am getting a 37820-pr4-a10 ECU, so lets hope its as easy as you say.
But look through the previous postings and see what has been suggested. Maybe you can understand why there was a lack of 100% certainty about what to get.
[QUOTE=Colin;2165034]The light is used to check codes and is only on OBD0 ecus. With obd1 you check using the cel. You’re making this much more complicated than need be. You should easily be able to find the right ecu online.
Do some Google searches If you are paranoid about accidentally getting an auto Trans ecu. From a basic and unrelated search I did this morning I stumbled across someone talking about the coding on an auto ecu. It should be pretty easy to research.[/QUOTE]
I just realized the spell check on my phone accidentally changed something that I typed and I didn’t catch it… so I fixed that.
To a certain extent it is actually true. Any obd0 ecu should run any obd0 engine, any obd1 ecu should run any obd1 engine…etc. So yes, if it plugs in, it works. Now, with that said, it might not work 100%. For example, if you use a non vtec ecu in a car with a vtec engine, then of course the vtec won’t work. Likewise, if you put a vtec ecu in a car that has a non vtec engine, the ecu will throw some codes because there will not be any vtec components hooked up.
[QUOTE=rnoswal;2165040]
I was asked before about any codes in my car before I go any further in my quest to get this car running right! I checked and there were none, now I did remove the battery leads which are supposed to reset those codes, I got the car running, didn’t drive it, ran it until the fan came on. Checked the codes again…none. But, there is something wrong. The engine works fine, the distributor has great spark, the fuel delivery system and control is the problem.[/quote]
What exactly is wrong with the car? You just said the engine works fine, distributor woks, fuel works…etc. I’m assuming you have another thread somewhere?
[QUOTE=rnoswal;2165040]
If I had a bunch of ecu’s laying around, I would stuff them in and try to see if there was a difference, since I don’t have that option, I am asking about ECU’s and what will work on the car I have. According to the vin, it should have a 1.7 engine in it, it has the 1.8, the ecu has been changes as well. I am getting a 37820-pr4-a10 ECU, so lets hope its as easy as you say.[/quote]
So your vin says “DB2” and not “DA9”? If your car is truly a DB2, then it’s for sure 92-93, which means it’s obd1. That’s assuming that no one converted anything. But it’s pretty obvious that nothing has been converted. Some common sense tells us that if the ecu you had plugged in did not have the little light on it - then that is an obd1 ecu. If that ecu was plugged into your harness, then the plugs on the harness are obd1 and have not been swapped over to obd0 (not that anyone would have done something that dumb anyway).
If you have a DB2 and removed the b17a and replaced it with a b18a (assuming you hook up all the sensors properly, which is easy because they should just plug right in to the original harness) all you need to do is replace the p61 ecu with an obd1 pr4 and you’re done, it will run just like a factory rs/ls/gs of that same year. Like I said, this is basic. But that’s not to say that you don’t have another problem, or that someone didn’t screw something else up in the process.
Sort of random question, but do you know if the car is using the original engine harness? Does the wiring in the engine bay look hacked up? Engine harness is something that should NOT be changed. A 92-93 rs/ls/gs engine harness will not function properly when plugged into a GSR main harness (and vice versa).
[QUOTE=rnoswal;2165040]
But look through the previous postings and see what has been suggested. Maybe you can understand why there was a lack of 100% certainty about what to get.
Thanks
Russ[/QUOTE]
No offense to Welfare, but just ignore all the other posts, it’s garbage info that is confusing you. He was trying to help but as I’ve seen him do a couple times recently his intentions are good but he may not have the info to back it up. There are a lot of people on the forums who post things they “think” are true, or “make sense” to them which are then taken as truth - when they should be taken as speculation. I don’t expect you to trust me either, you don’t know me, so you have no reason to. But do some searching on your own, it’s REALLY easy. Between this forum, honda-tech.com and google you should easily have been able to find all of this info and then some. I’m not going to do it for you because I don’t have the time (the time I do have I spend searching for info regarding my own Honda questions).
Thing is, it’s a bit different than computers in that parts don’t go obsolete so fast, and are very much interchangeable. With that said, look at my post above, I can tell you with 100% certainty that a OBD1 PR4/P74/P75 will work (look at the plug on the ecu to determine if it’s OBD0 or 1. The hondata link above shows the difference in plugs). Like I said the OBD1 PR4 would be best, and according to this list: http://www.xenocron.com/te.php?page=ECUlist, it’s code is 37820 PR4 A11. While the 37820 PR4 A10 is for the 91. Don’t worry though man, it’s not as bad you’re making it out to be
What exactly is wrong with the car? You just said the engine works fine, distributor woks, fuel works…etc. I’m assuming you have another thread somewhere?
Check out the following thread in this same electrical section to find out what I am trying to cure.
(The check engine light takes time to go out? HELP!!!)
If you have a DB2 and removed the b17a and replaced it with a b18a (assuming you hook up all the sensors properly, which is easy because they should just plug right in to the original harness) all you need to do is replace the p61 ecu with an obd1 pr4 and you’re done, it will run just like a factory rs/ls/gs of that same year. Like I said, this is basic. But that’s not to say that you don’t have another problem, or that someone didn’t screw something else up in the process.
Sort of random question, but do you know if the car is using the original engine harness? Does the wiring in the engine bay look hacked up? Engine harness is something that should NOT be changed. A 92-93 rs/ls/gs engine harness will not function properly when plugged into a GSR main harness (and vice versa).
No I don’t know about the harness, but I took some pictures and posted them in the other string. I am taking the car to a guy that is very familiar with these cars this saturday. I hope he will get this sorted out. This string here was just for me to find out about the ecu’s. Apparently there are some that have different opinions about that subject here. I am actually pretty good with cars, it’s just this one that has thrown me some. When I got the car it wouldn’t even run. The cams were out, the valves were way out of adjustment and several other problems. I have sorted them out to get the car running and have the car put back together mostly. It is just the starting issue I have that I am stumped about.
No offense to Welfare, but just ignore all the other posts, it’s garbage info that is confusing you. He was trying to help but as I’ve seen him do a couple times recently his intentions are good but he may not have the info to back it up. There are a lot of people on the forums who post things they “think” are true, or “make sense” to them which are then taken as truth - when they should be taken as speculation. I don’t expect you to trust me either, you don’t know me, so you have no reason to. But do some searching on your own, it’s REALLY easy. Between this forum, honda-tech.com and google you should easily have been able to find all of this info and then some. I’m not going to do it for you because I don’t have the time (the time I do have I spend searching for info regarding my own Honda questions).
Not as easy as Googling. There is a lot of onfo out there and some conflicting, so I ask you guys in here that have had a lot more experience than I have with these cars. I appreciate your input as well as the others, but it is still up to me to decide which info to use. I like a confident reply, but unless it makes a light go off or if it is a simple problem, then I try to get more than one opiniion. Most sites have a lot of info on Honda’s, but not near as much as the Integra’s. So thanks and check out the other line for my main problem. Maybe you might have a solution that seems to be hiding from everyone so far.
Thanks
mrpenny, have you put a p75 into a DA before? I assume it should work OK w/ no codes, but I’ve never tried. I figure using a pr4 in a DC might throw a code though, I know there’s some different components (such as evap stuff). But yeah, once you start modding engines and using tuned ecu’s you can pretty much use anything.
