From what I gathered is that they were designed for an EF not for a DA and that they fuck up caster and that camber will not adjust 3 degrees but more on the side on 2 degrees. Now if you have the ability to adjust caster (i.e. adjustable radius arms or traction bar) would there still be a problem using these for a DA? (I ask this because I fucked up by buying them in the first place but I was planning on running a full race traction bar and only planned on lower my car about 3/4 of an inch.)
If I recall correctly, someone tried this. When he corrected for the caster, the wheel was either pushed far back or far forward. Either way, the wheel was offset from the center of the wheel well too far to look correct or I would assume perform optimally.
No, running a Full-Race bar won’t help, as that phatcar was running and no matter how it was set-up, he couldn’t get it dialed in at all. If you want to spend $400 on a traction bar just to get your caster dialed in, because your improperly designed control arms fucked up your geometry, then by all means, go ahead. But I did just see that you’re only going to lower it by 3/4", so the change in caster might not be so dramatic. If you’re really adamant about it though, throw them on, get an alignment, and report back to us
so are these the infamous Skunk2 control arms that everyone has trouble with?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-Front-Camber-Kit-Pro-88-91-Civic-90-93-Integra_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a56389393QQitemZ250554651539QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
and also isnt skunk2 suppose to be redesigning these, to SPECIFICALLY fit the DA, this spring
calm down killer:naughty:
Ive been running them for a year now W/a full race TB, and the caster is not realy fixable. and Ive posted pics of it thread posted as well as allignment charts. as far as im concerned. im not to concered about them being a couple of degrees off but there at the same degree on both sides
let be real though, you only see these caster complaints in slamed cars, mine and phatcars for example, with 3/4" drop your not gonna need much camber adjustment. In the end I think you will be fine if you decide to run them all thought if you can return them. I would. that way when you decide you want to go lower, you wouldnt run into this issue
for a 3/4" drop i would just run the stock upper control arms. your caster will be fine and your camber will barely be affected by it. unless you want to add more negative camber?
with a 3/4" drop just make sure you do an alignment and you shouldn’t have any problems. I wouldn’t think you would need all the adjustability of the Skunk2 UCA’s with that small of a drop. I would stick with your stockers and if you did want the adjustability then buy the Ingalls style kit for your car.
hmmmm. i’m running the skunk2 ef UCA’s. my car’s pretty slammed. over 3".
took an alignment just fine. or maybe i should have another gander at those readings:read:
Well i bought full race traction bars, koni yellows, h&r springs, and the skunk2 control arms all together so i didn’t buy the traction bar just to adjust caster with the skunk2 control arms. yeah 3/4’’ of a drop isn’t much but i wanted to dial in everything correctly so it would handle awesome, i believe in doing it right the first time so you can have fun and not worry about it. With my current suspension it’s stock except I have adjustable radius arms off an accord on there right now with +2.0 degrees caster and it rides pretty good. Negative caster is never a good thing, for example if you ever get a retarted shopping cart with the fucked up wheel that shifts back and forth it’s because of negative caster. How far does the control arms put the caster? from what ive read it’s about +3-4 degrees (correct me if i’m wrong).