Electrical Problem (starting and foglight)

My 91 LS recently stopped working. Here’s what happened…
Started the car at my friends house (which is a little more than a mile away). Turned the car off @ my house and when I tried to start it, all power went away. If i left the car alone for 30+ sec, power will return.

I tested the battery with my multimeter and it read 12.5 volts. I tested the 12volt wire @ the ignition harness, it read 9.4. When I cranked the starter, both my 12volt and ignition wire drop to 2.4 then rises again when I stopped.

I’ve checked my fuses, battery terminal and REPLACED my Main Relay & new battery.

Second problem…

I recently installed the one piece headlgiths. Everything worked properly. I was about to sell my car so i put on the OEM headlights. After that, the foglights didn’t work. I figured that the bulbs burned out. I ended up not selling my car so I put my one piece lights back on. Now, everything but the foglights work.

  1. I checked the fuse underneath the dash (15amp). Fuse isn’t blown and both sides of the terminal read hot (positive).

  2. I did not unplug the switch but I can hear the relay click.

  3. I checked the actual plug that goes into the foglight and both terminals are reading ground (both foglights aren’t getting power).

The foglight problem occured prior to my car not starting

THANKS AGAIN FOR ANY HELP!!!

Have you checked the batt. to chassis ground, [under batt. box]?
Have you checked the batt. to motor ground, [same cable as chassis ground]?
Have you checked the batt, to under hood fuse box connection?
Have you checked your main fuse connections, [Philips screws]?

Have you tried charging the batt. or boosting?:corn:94

PS if you can hear the fog light relay “click” on but there is no power at the fog lights, [leads], either the relay is bad, [can be bad and still “turn on”] or power is not getting to the relay, [red/white lead] from fuse 19 -15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box, test for power on the red/white lead at the realy, test for power on the red/black lead at the realy with fog light switch on.

[QUOTE=fcm;1942367]Have you checked the batt. to chassis ground, [under batt. box]?
Have you checked the batt. to motor ground, [same cable as chassis ground]?
Have you checked the batt, to under hood fuse box connection?
Have you checked your main fuse connections, [Philips screws]?

Have you tried charging the batt. or boosting?:corn:94

PS if you can hear the fog light relay “click” on but there is no power at the fog lights, [leads], either the relay is bad, [can be bad and still “turn on”] or power is not getting to the relay, [red/white lead] from fuse 19 -15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box, test for power on the red/white lead at the realy, test for power on the red/black lead at the realy with fog light switch on.[/QUOTE]

I have not checked the grounds yet but have checked the fuses under the hood. The fuses check out ok.

I have tried jumping my integra with my IS300, the car still would not start.

I really appreciate your help FCM!!!

When you try starting it by boosting from your “IS300” will the engine turn over and just not fire, or is it not even turning over?

When you are boosting does it make any diff. at all compared to when not boosting?

When boosting where are you connecting the jumper cables?:stare:94

[QUOTE=fcm;1942617]When you try starting it by boosting from your “IS300” will the engine turn over and just not fire, or is it not even turning over?

When you are boosting does it make any diff. at all compared to when not boosting?

When boosting where are you connecting the jumper cables?:stare:94[/QUOTE]

The engine would not turn over when boosting power from my other car. It didn’t seem to make a difference with the power. When I boosted it, I tried straight from terminal to terminal… then tried hooking the negative to a chassis ground.

I looked at it more today and found a couple more things out.
I peeled some plastic insulation from the positive terminal and noticed that there was some corrosion. I also decided to jump the starter and starter only clicked, did not turn over.

Would a bad starter have symptoms of power loss?

Would a bad starter have symptoms of power loss?

Yes, if starter is shorted out/seized, [or engine is seized] you would hear the solenoid “click” and any lights that are on would dim right out.

Try this… connect jumper cable pos.(+) directly to starter motor, jumper cable neg.(-) to engine then trigger the solenoid, if engine will still not turn over remove starter and have it bench checked.

Let’s hope it is the starter motor that is seized and not the engine.:cross:94