my friends car has a problem.The car sometimes wont start.It would crank but no start,theres no electricity.He changed the ignitor,rotor and cap.Sometimes the car will start and it will run nice,and strong.One day he was driving and the engine stoped,and then started back again while driving.When the engine will not start the check engine ligth will turn on.He has to wait a couple of minutes until the engine ligth goes off,and the car will start.Please my friend needs help
your sure your not getting spark? the only other two things it sounds like is the distributor itself or also kinda sounds like it might be the main fuel relay. IMO
Well it’s no fuel or no spark, both easy to check for, the fuel being the easiest to check for…
The next time it will not start listen for the fuel pump prime
turn ign. to run, [not start] you should hear a click as the “PGM-FI Main Relay”, [also called the fuel pump relay] turns on you should also hear the hum of the fuel pump as it primes the fuel lines, [brings fuel pressure up] it will last for a few sec. or less, you will hear the relay click off ant the fuel pump will stop, [no hum].
The “PGM-FI Main Relay” is located under dash, drivers side. just to the left of steering column.
The fuel pump is located in the gas tank, it will be easier to hear if you remove the bottom of the back seat.
Here’s the catch, even if you can hear the fuel pump, there may still be no fuel getting to the motor, the “PGM-FI Main Relay” is actually 2 relays, the fuel pump relay and the fuel injector relay are both inside the “PGM-FI Main Relay”
Some times you can test to see if the relay is the problem using the “Tap Test”, if you do not hear the relays click, [no hum from fuel pump] tap the relay, if the fuel pump comes on, the problem is the relay, sometimes they can be repaired, [cold solder joints].
The same “Tap Test” can be performed on the fuel pump, [it can also be intermittent] you must remove the bottom of the rear seat, remove the cover panel to expose the fuel pump access panel on the gas tank, turn on ign. if fuel pump does not come on give the access panel a good sharp tap, if fuel pump comes on, the problem is the fuel pump and it will have to be replaced, [it is not repairable].
Here is a good tutorial on the PGM-FI Main Relay… http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
Any other testing on the relay and ign. system will require the use of a multimeter, do you have one or can you borrow one?
If not, go and buy one at Radio Shack $20.:whisper:94
It sounds like perhaps you might have a bad or failing ignition coil. You mentioned that you replaced the ignitor and the cap/rotor but what about the coil? If it cut out when running my guess is that the coil either failed or has an intermittent failure. When the car won’t start (and it’s dark), pull a plug wire out and hold it about 1/8" from either a wrench or the engine block. If you don’t see a spark, you have an ignition problem (likely based on what you already replaced - a dead coil).
Here’s the key in diagnosiing your problem:
FAST (Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing). If you can verify all of these to be good, your motor will be running unless there’s internal damage which I doubt is the case here. I suspect either ignition or fuel problems. You can also pull the rear seat and run a jumjper wire to the fuel pump to see if it runs (I think it’s a yellow wire w a white stripe but don’t quote me as it’s been awhile). Have you tried pulling the hose off the service port of the fuel filter to see if you have fuel pressure? You may want to connect a fuel pressure guage to see if you have enough pressure (try taking the fuel line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator and clamp it with vise grips). If the motor runs, you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Don’t neglect that pesky alternator either. If/when you get the car running you can meter the battery terminals, you should get about 14.6V with a good alternator. Another trick would be to see if you can run the car off another vehicle’s charging system - does it respond to a boost? If so, does it die when the jumpers are disconnected? If so, I suspect a bad diode pack/dead alternator.
No start/run problems are usually pretty simple to fix but sometimes folks get carried away with all kinds of other stuff without addressing the basics. Just remember when a motor won’t run to check: FAST.
I hope you got this sorted out. The only other fear would be that if it dumped while driving, the timing belt may have broken. If this is the case, she won’t fire.
Some key things to check would be: battery voltage, ignition response, fuel pressure (even just pulling a hose and turning key to IGN to engage the pump).
Take care,
Andrew.
aka neex.
Hey nex good call I completely missed that part when I replied. I just replaced my coil after a similar issue
Ditto the above.
But this was a typo…
pull a plug wire out and hold it about 1/8" from either a wrench
…right?94
thanx for all,sorry for no replys i was kind of busy.
fcm:
It may not be pretty but it’s a damn good way to check for spark with minimal tools or knowledge. Perhaps I should have said ‘insulated wrench’ and not the ECU ground…? Sometimes it’s the simple things that help and not everyone have access to DSOs, DMMs and ignition test equipment.
Thanks.
Andrew.
aka neex.
Headlight problems
Hey man i took my girl friends dash out to replace the heater core. And now that i got it in the headlights stay on when i cut the key on. If some one can help me i would appreciate it cause she is ticked at me.
Thanks
Chris,
aka kritter
It may not be pretty but it’s a damn good way to check for spark with minimal tools or knowledge.
Not pretty? More like shocking.:stare:
I agree holding a spark plug lead a 1/4"-1/2" away from ground is a very good and easy way to check for spark, and as I said it must have been a typo, [omission] I pictured the OP holding a wrench in one hand and holding the spark plug lead close to it in the other and someone cranking the engine.
94
Hey man i took my girl friends dash out to replace the heater core. And now that i got it in the headlights stay on when i cut the key on. If some one can help me i would appreciate it cause she is ticked at me.
Sounds to me like you have shorted the head lights, [is that high or low beam?] output lead from the light switch to the ign. switches acc. or ign. output, [do the lights come on when ign. switch is in acc. or in run?] I would look around the steering column, make sure the ign. harness has not gotten pinched against the “Combination Light Switch” harness, possibly around steering column mounting bracket.:idea:94
Sounds to me like you have shorted the head lights, [is that high or low beam?] output lead from the light switch to the ign. switches acc. or ign. output, [do the lights come on when ign. switch is in acc. or in run?] I would look around the steering column, make sure the ign. harness has not gotten pinched against the “Combination Light Switch” harness, possibly around steering column mounting bracket.94
Yea man ive checked every thing an i fount a ground loose but it was for the antenna. Yea its only wen u turn it to run! But its really confusing and frustrating. but i have no idea but i’ll take the steering column apart and see wuts goin on in there but i didn’t see anything
peace kritter
Try this, pull the fuses for the high and low beams, [fuses 9&10 - 10A, high beam and fuses 3&4 - 10A, low beam] in under dash fuse box, then turn on ign. switch, if lights come on, problem is past the fuse box, [not at steering column] if lights do not come on, replace the fuses one at a time starting with the low beams, if it is the high beams that come on there is a short to power, [ign.] on the red/blue lead between the switch and the fuse box, if it’s the low beams there is a short to power on the red/yellow lead between the switch and the fuse box.:idea:94
One more thing, is there anything else that is not working properly, like signal or hazard lights or park lights or anything for that matter?
yea hazzards not working but that was not working when i bought the car. So i don’t no wut that is either. but i preciate your help but ill try that and ill let u no something.
Hazards, [or signal lights] not working is a common problem on a g2, the problem is almost always the hazard switch, both signal light power and hazard power go through the hazard switch to the “Turn Signal/Hazard Relay” the left and right sides, [for hazard] are also connected inside the hazard switch.
I have heard guys have opened them up and cleaned them.
Anyway back to your problem, I should ask, is there any chance her car is a CDM, [Canadian model]with daytime running lights, that maybe where unplugged before, [relay in pass. kick panel I believe] that you, when putting the dash back on, reconnected.
If your blue high beam indicator, in the instrument cluster, is on, along with the head lights [when you turn on the ign.] try this, set the hand brake, [“E” brake] turn on the ign., if the head lights do not turn on, release the hand brake, if the lights come on, [including the indicator] the car has “Daytime Running Lights”, [DRL = high beams on through resistors, so not as bright] and you plugged it in when you reinstalled the dash.
If the above is the case:cross:…
The G/F owes you a brownie point for giving her a safer car, if she doesn’t want them on, you should get another point for fixing it, unplug it again.:whisper:.94
no her car aint a cdm model i already thought of that one but i tryied the fusees and i don’t no man its confusing
You tried the fuses?
When you pulled them. [the fuses] did the head lights still come on when you turned on the ign.?:tapfing: 94
u no i cant
remember i got to drunk last night but im gonnaa go over there and do it again and ill let u no