I’ll agree with you Colin. However the DA engine bay is crowded and more complicated then it should be. I’m looking to eliminate some none essential items and make things look a bit neater. Nothing crazy. Its my autox car, so its not a priority to be show quality 
Wow! Jason’s car is incredible! Very true about the relevance on his DA too. There is really a lot to be said about building something timeless.
For the EG, I could see some older guys moving in this direction (especially as a lot of these cars are now really old), but it will take a more mature enthusiast to appreciate it. I think the majority of people “won’t understand” as he put it and the rest will be too fixated on instant gratification to emulate it.
To me, the tuck/shaving motivation came from the ability to do work easier and make things look a bit cleaner. Sort of the function = fashion idea. To answer some of your questions about removals… I think unless you get a Hondata ECU you will actually get CEL’s even though half of the parts literally do nothing. If you want my honest opinion on your goals, I think it’s an all or nothing thing. Leave it stock or do it all over. The reason I say that is because IMO as far as reliability and function, it will be easier to work on in either it’s stock form (even though busy with some unnecessary parts) or most simplistic custom form (with many new functional parts to achieve this). If you or a mechanic are working on the car in an “in-between” state I think it’s an unnecessary headache.
[QUOTE=Boostpyro90;2319604]…I think I will just run the vacuum hose from the charcoal canister directly to the nipple on the driver side of the manifold where the solenoid previously vented…[/QUOTE]With respect, this can be a bad idea, at least on some cars. A direct connection from gas tank to charcoal canister to intake manifold will be a small vacuum leak. The solenoid valve allows the charcoal canister to be vented into the engine at specific times when a small change in vacuum does not matter much, and closed the rest of the time.
Most cars can run “ok” with a bad vacuum system, but it has an effect on how a car runs - at times. You may not notice until the engine is at warm idle, or something like that.
On the other hand, on a car 20+ years old, the charcoal in the canister is useless, and does pretty much nothing. So deleting an old charcoal canister and plugging the hole in the IM has no bad effect on the environment.
^Just for the sake of argument, why did they get rid of them on the 92/93 models? Not saying you’re wrong because it is a valid point!
[QUOTE=Boostpyro90;2320135]^Just for the sake of argument, why did they get rid of them on the 92/93 models? [/QUOTE]My guess, because they found another way to accomplish the same thing.
Don’t take what I posted as hand wringing over disabling a minor engine function, thats the last thing I want to do here, LOL. I am absolutely not against ripping out anything that stands in the way of making a show car, or a faster race car, as long is its not the front seat or a good seatbelt… 
Personally I just like to know how things work, even if they are largely useless on an older car. Obviously, if you are doing a tuck, that’s not all that important, as long as the engine still runs.
Opinions on what some parts are used can vary. Example:
Integra Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve
… not just for starting the motor but also for idling and low load conditions when the motor is heatsoaked…
The intake air temp sensor (IAT) reads artificially high when the engine has been shut off and restarted a short time after due to the high underhood temps and no airflow around the sensor. This causes the ECM to deliver less fuel causing the engine to run too lean until enough air passes around the IAT to bring it down to normal temperatures. The ECU uses this solenoid to allow the FP regulator to see atmospheric pressure instead of vacuum pressure increasing fuel pressure to overcome the momentary lean conditions on a hot restart…
I wasn’t challenging you or anything, because I look at things the same way. I was just asking for my own understanding. That info you posted above is good to know!
No problem.
I think if I wanted to get rid of the charcoal canister, I would probably vent the line from the tank out through the same hose which now connects the port at the bottom of the canister out to the open air, and not leave it open inside the engine bay, and also not to the IM.
I don’t like the “open” vent line option - I don’t want gas fumes inside the engine bay, because whenever I smelled it, I would wonder if I had a fuel leak. (I’ve had one self-inflicted engine fire, and I’m paranoid about that) Besides, the hose into the fender well is less than two feet away, and that’s its function - clean air into the tank when the tank is cooling off, filtered air out of the tank (assuming the charcoal is new-ish) when the gas tank is warming up and expanding… I am talking about the port line on the bottom of the charcoal canister now, not the connections on top
I don’t like the “direct to IM” option, because that creates a (small) vacuum leak, so even if it does no real harm, I won’t trust any vacuum test or readings after that.