engine experts, what do you think of this thread?
well, so far i’ve yet to see an auto manufacturer suggest to run a brand new car hard. i do believe that they know much more than the guy you see in the pic on that site. if it were up to me, i surely wouldn’t follow that guy’s advice. i’ll take the traditional transitional break-in, with standard dino oil. then use synthetic.
I have never ever heard of breaking an engine in like that.
yo
Actually his process makes more sense then the dealers methode if you ever built an engine or really know the inner workings then it would probbly make more sense but that really does make sense…
I have heard of this method and plan on trying it with my B17 when it’s done.
I like the idea of changing the oil after 20 miles. And then changing it again after 1500 miles, but this time using Synthetic. Hey, oil is cheap - especially normal dino oil. I certainly wouldn’t want excess crud being recirculated in the engine.
Regards
Oz
In my opinion, that website is bang on. Take a second read if you don’t beleive me. Dealers do not know jack about overhauling and the break-in of engines. I just finished an overhaul of an engine here at school (mind you, an aircraft one though 
), and follwed break in procedures very similar to those on that website. It’s pretty standard practice NOT to baby the engine during the break-in time.
Take the advice from that site, Max. It’s good stuff.
anyone else?
An easy break in is what most engine builders recommend. I personally use this method. Start your engine and let it warm up to operating temperature (usually about 5 minutes). Make sure your timing is set properly and that the engine is staying within normal temp range (not overheating). Now take the car out for a spin. This is the fun part and is for “initial” ring seating.
Take the car out on an open stretch of road (no traffic) and rapidly accelerate to 50mph, and then let the gears “load” decel your motor. Repeat this process 5-6 times. This will properly “seat” the rings. But after this you should change your oil with new NON-SYNTHETIC 5W-30 or 10W-30 Oil (your choice). And run not like a grandma but fairly easy for the next 500-700 milies. Keep varying the rpms…don’t drive at the same rpm for a long period of time. After 1000 miles, change your oil and filter, and after that you can change your oil and filter at normal intervals. Be sure to not use synthetic for the first 6000-10,000 miles. I am still using Castrol GTX 10W-30.
Let me know if you have any questions.
My engine builder builds high performance engines all over 20-30k in price and he recommends basically driving it hard right away. All the engines he has built turn over their first time on the engine dyno! No problems since.
Well, I’m not sure about any other break in method, but using the method I mentioned above my motor is doing great. I just did a leak down test to see how the rings sealed. 5% Leak across all four cylinders…which is VERY good. Race spec.
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