Just recently I have had some problems with my 91 RS.
After shifting into second, third, and sometimes even fourth, the engine seems to bog around 2K. As if it doesn’t want to go at all.
This is after letting it warm up before driving.
There is no slipping throughout the rest of the drive, and after it bogs for just a few seconds, it will accelerate fine.
The clutch doesn’t appear to slip.
Any ideas whatsoever so that I can begin to test them?
fuel filter
having the same problem
I have had a new fuel filter since i bought the car. The bolts holding in the lines were so tight it ripped the whole bracket off the firewall just trying to remove them. So I am going to go ahead and change it and let you know how it goes. Thank you.
Check your cap and rotor, if they are worn at all replace them. Even if they are in ok shape your distributor could still be causing this. the only real way to know for sure is swap yours out with a known working one.
I’ve had this problem numerous times and it was almost always distributor related.
Yeah, I changed the fuel filter and took it for a drive and still have the same problem. I have a spare distributor so I will try that next. I’m not really familiar with the timing issues related to the distributor. I replaced the o-ring a while back and was told to be sure not to rotate the shaft at all. So when switching over this distributor is there any tips to make sure its in correct timing?
change your o2 sensor or check your conection i change mine and it dont bog on my nomore
Same here. Change your o2 sensor. made the difference like night and day.
When you change the distributor just mark a line with a sharpie across both the center of mounting bracket and the part where it meets the head. Then when you put the new distributor on, line it up again with the center of the mounting bracket and the line you have marked on the head. (use tape on both parts if you dont wanna mark the aluminium.)
On the new distributor make sure the rotor is facing the same general direction as the one you took off. I think it will only really go on there on way anyway but Im not sure.
I have done this many times and trust me, if you could eff it up I would have. 
P.S. Don’t forget to properly number the wires and their positions on the cap and replace in the same order.
Thanks man. I was going to switch over the TPS from my spare engine also just to check it as well. But I don’t see any way to disconnect it from the throttle body. Has anyone done this? If that isn’t a solution then I suppose the distributor switch will just have to happen. I will keep you posted on the fix.
Thanks once again.
o2 sensor was a no go. No code for the o2. Changing the distributor over in just a few minutes. Fingers crossed.
So I am having this same problem only well here is the story. I got my car tuned a week ago and was running fine. I had a coolant leak out of the peace that bolts on the back of the intake mani. I fixed the leak and the one bolt to the thing (don’t know what it’s called) on the back of the mani is stripped. It doesn’t leak any coolant though but it sure did mess up my idle. I ordered a edelbrock intake mani. Any ways when I let the clutch out and it’s in gear and it start to go it bogs. It bogs like it would die but once I put the clutch in its fine. After I fixed the coolant leak I drove the car around and found out that the ls vtec oil brass line broke so I fixed that and after I fixed it that’s when the car started to act up. I have new parts for the whole car under the hood. The distributor is all new, fuel pump, fuel filter, o2 it’s all new. There is one thing that it might be but not sure. Well when the coolant leak all over it leaked all over the top of the o2 sensor. Could it have messed that up? I don’t think it did because after I got done fixing the leak right after I took the car for a spin and everything was fine. Let me know if you guys have any pointers on what I should do. Thanks