i have rebuilt my ls motor an i need to know how many pounds of torque dos the rods have to have… the motor is an ls/v…
b16(jdm)head… they told me that the it was 30/70/90lbs an that the rods where suppost to have 30lbs in each bolt… i need to know if thats right… i have arp head studs…
Did you replace the rod bolts? If you’re going LS/V You MUST replace those. And I recommend ARP Rod bolts. They come with their own specs. The main crank bolts are around 50 something ft lbs. And the as for the ARP head studs, it should also have come with their recommended specs.
well the car came already with the ls/v swap so am not sure on the torque… an yes i was going to buy the rod bolts but i need the car out fast an money is kind of tie…
I second what streetknight408 stated, ARP head and rod bolts are a must for LSV and B20v setups. try to hold out until you find the rod bolts if possible, I would even look up in craigs list for a new or used set.
I second what streetknight408 stated, ARP head and rod bolts are a must for LSV and B20v setups. try to hold out until you find the rod bolts if possible, I would even look up in craigs list for a new or used set.
ok i well look for the rod bolts since i already have the head ones… ill let u guys know… an do u know the torque…
are egle rod bolts the same or better cuz i have some one that would sell the mfor 50 bucks
well Im not sure what rods yoru asking the specs for, arp or eagle but i did a quick search for eagle rod bolt torque specs on bing and found this on honda tech.
try doing a search if your still stuck…
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=765430
i also read that the arp rods are more upgraded than the eagle but at this point anything is better than stock…
Its also very important you try to find a set that has the supplied moly lube so you can torque them down correctly. In the end its up to you and you can low ball them if its not supplied.
Id also do another search on how to veriffy the arp or eagle rod bolts, a buddy on mine bought a used set and turned out they were some generic brand.
they told me that is 32lbs on the rods bolts… ??? is that right.
You can’t just slap new rod bolts in your engine. If you are looking to replace the rod bolts you are basically looking at a rebuild. Unless you can get the pistons in from the bottom after machining the rods to accept the new bolts.
True. Just depends on how out-of-round the big ends are, that he’ll need to hone them accordingly for new bearings and rod bolts. Getting pistons in from the bottom is impossible. LOL. He’d have to get rings if he decided to keep the pistons currently inside his block.
Lol exactly, and sadly where I am sitting. I need ARP bolts but don’t want to tear it down. If anyone has stock bolts in an LSV or B20V I would just say keep the revs low, no more than 7k.
True. Just depends on how out-of-round the big ends are, that he’ll need to hone them accordingly for new bearings and rod bolts. Getting pistons in from the bottom is impossible. LOL. He’d have to get rings if he decided to keep the pistons currently inside his block.
Lol exactly, and sadly where I am sitting. I need ARP bolts but don’t want to tear it down. If anyone has stock bolts in an LSV or B20V I would just say keep the revs low, no more than 7k.
well i decide that i was going to keep my ls bolts since i dont want to go through all that trouble… but when my motor was running i always use to chift at 8500 rpms an nothing ever happen… i already put new rings on the pistons an new bearings…