yeah…
see i was thinking that all headers would more prone to cracking when you use heat wrap. and i thought that cuz i havent heard or read anywhere that says a certain type of header would…
i dont know if SS will crack but if you want you can still use heat wrap because i do… up to you
i was wanting to wrap my header around the oil pan area, but was worried that it would crack …
well i think it would but search because i am maybe wrong…
I have a stupid newbie question.
Present stock exhaust - though just had to plunk down 300 for the catalytic converter.
When adding an aftermarket header, do you have to redo the exhaust pipe - or are some the same length (at the point where exhaust flange would bolt onto pipe)?
And if you a stock muffler, would it defeat the purpose to add a header without changing the muffler?
Finally, if you’re still here with me at this point, anyway to improve the flow/hp and retain an overall quiet exhaust system?
it should all bolt up to the stock cat. i would suggest saving up and getting your header and cat back put in at the same time, it would be easy to tell how it changed your ride…
as for keeping at a low tone. you might some how be able to use a stock itr muffler but im not sure on that…
as for keeping a stock sound tho… i have a greddy sp2 cat back and normal granny driving, its hard to hear sometimes. but when you go wot its loud. and i have heard that the rsr cat backs are close to stock sounding… hope this helps
txracer - thanks. The info helps. Damn, wish I would have given this more thought before the cat died on my car - I had to replace it - as the car wasn’t drivable as it had become thoroughly plugged.
no problem man.
Adding a header to a factory exhaust system isn’t a bad idea…as long as you have intentions on upgrading in the long run, but that’s just to get the most out of your system without havin your ecu re-programmed.
ok bad news!! everything was going fine until I was tightening one of the new nuts onto the old studs for the header… the stud broke off and now I am stuck with half the stud inside the engine… so instead of 9 studs holding the manifold on its just 8. 
The only thing I can think of doing is drilling a small hole in the center of the broken stud and using some kind of extractor to get it out… all while trying to not mess up the threads on the stud hole. does anyone know a easy fix for this or maybe something I am missing…?
unbolt your header and remove it then try and get some vise grips around it if possible thats prolly your best bet to try first. then drill if you cant.
yeah none of the stud sticks out so I am gonna have to drill it… any ideas on what the best bolt extractor would be once I drill it.
sorry to bring this back, but where are you guys getting your megan header for 150 shipped? I usually order from prostreetonline.com and they wanted 173 shipped…
thanks
JDM_DA9-whats SS?sorry im a newbie:dunno:
ss means stainless steel. wich means no rust.
i got mine off ebay. but ive heard the price has gone up. used to be on megans site that they where 179 plus shipping. but like i said i think the price has gone up
as for the broken bolt. seriously save time and stress and go pick up a set of the square easy outs. i broke the bolt that holds the shift stabilizer bar to the transmission. buddy of mine came over drilled a small hole in the center of the bolt ( use a punch and make sure its in the center of the stud and tap it with a hammer till it gets a nice dent in the middle of it ) then drill the hole. take the correct size of easy out. tap it into the newly drilled hole. and put some pliers on it. there left hand thread. well not even threaded you will see if you look at the square ones there best. then use the pliers to unscrew it from the head…all in all it took my friend abotu 4 minutes to get the broke bolt out. but becareful when drilling not to screw up. thats why you need a punch… hope this helps…
Pro Street has them for $153, but they try and rip you off with shipping. Seriously, i’ve had a full set of 17x10 wheels shipped (not from ProStreet) for less than they want for these headers.
ss shoundnt crack. i heard ceramic cracks even if it doesnt have the heat wrap. it seems like most of everyone that has the ceramic headers say theirs has cracked. havent heard of anyone with the ss say anything about cracking. My corner bolt broke off too. but dis broke rite at da edge of da block. so i just left it alone and used da rest of the bolts. im not sure if most headers are longer the the stock but myn was and it extending my whole custom piping back and it rattled because it hits the heat shield but i went down n cut part of it off so it doesnt rattle as often as before. going to change to stock again so the damn cops will get off my ass about it. but if you decided to put on a header. i recommend not putting it on till you get the whole exhaust maybe catback, get a new gasket on that too. its only 20 bucks. ) JUST MY OPINION!!!
snorky…u still got that header…bringin it back boys
yeah…where can i get one for 150 shipped…like to know…lookin for the best price now…