I need to get some extended studs installed and was wondering how much a shop would charge to have them installed?
Also, while googling, i found that many people said when you replace the studs you must replace the wheel bearing? Is this true even when i have it professionally done at a shop?
If anyone knows any shops in socal that can install for cheap please let me know!
Your looking at a min of $80/hr. Very high i know. Lame i know too. But you can do them yourself and it costs you $0/hr. Ah…much better. Also, shops will charge you part plus 30%…you can buy for just part price…again…ah…much better. Wheel studs cost what 2 bucks each maybe. And are very simple to install, cant do it wrong. And no, wheel bearings are not a have to do, rather a should do while your at it. Like a timing belt and water pump thing.
you can take the whole hub assembly off and take it to a shop to have it all pressed in and out.it would be cheaper this way. sometimes when you press the bearings out they will mess up beyond repair, one reason why people say you will need new ones. getting extended studs is a good idea, it seems like most of the integras i see like to eat front wheel studs.
you are in the same boat as me only i can get my lugs on the stud… just not that much. just feel safer with longer studs though so i got some arp ones, just dont have the money, dont know how to replace them, and im not trying to find out by screwing up my car like always. everytime i try to do somthing it always goes wrong.
I just installed extended studs in my hubs. Real easy once you have the hub separated from the knuckle. I wouldn’t feel comfortable pounding the old studs out with the hub/wheelbearing/knuckle all assembled and on the car. All I used was an old socket, some wood blocks, a vise and 3lb hammer. And the secret weapon, PB Blaster.
Not yet but I will when I reassemble the knuckle to be installed. Ive heard people remove the hub with a slide hammer, I’ve never tried it but it can be done. There’s also a way to install wheelbearings with a large bolt and nut, some heavy duty washers and an impact gun. Once again, never tried it but I’ve seen it done.
EVERYTIME you press the front hub out the knuckle the inner bearing race will stay on the hub, leaving the rest of the bearing in the knuckle still, and having to dremel/grind/use a bearing puller to get the race off. So if you guys are doing extended studs, have a new set of bearings ready. Just found out yesterday that Napa sells the OEM bearings (koyo) for about $60 a side after tax, which is fairly close to OEM prices, so just throwing that out as an option. I just use my HF 12 ton press, or can you can go get one of the various specialty tools, or like White92LS531 a bolt, washers, and impact will work, like this: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2685054
I agree^^^ Just remember that whatever tools you use when pressing in or out always support the outer part. So for the wheel studs support around the hole with a socket or something. Also usually the hub is removed from the knuckle with a slide hammer.
Jordan- Yuppers. Call Napa and see, because I know for sure he paid $60 for the one. Also I was just doing a lot of forum diggin today, and found out that the Timken bearings autozone sells are the same as Koyos (Koyo owns Timken now). So if you can check out Autozone/checkers and physically see if it’s a Koyo/Toyo/NTN, then you’re good to go, they’re all OEM bearing suppliers. I have another friend that ordered from propartsusa (they have a group buy on team-integra, $90 for the pair) and he was able to get them in DA size with no problems. http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=2&TopicID=269388&PagePosition=1&ThreadPage=1
I ended up finding them on the site. $69.99 each. Not bad. That group buy is for 94-2001, aren’t the hub shafts a different size? I’ll check out autozone or advance auto sometime. As of right now it looks like I’ll pick em up from my local napa store, but if i can get em cheaper I’m gonna jump on it.