Happy new year guys! So lately my girls DA is having problems with her radiator fan continuing to run after she turns the car off and it killed the battery the other day. It doesnt happen all the time and ive been lucky to catch it lately when it does but i gotta fix the issue once and for all…cant afford her getting stuck with a dead battery, especially since she started her new job last week. I had plenty of G2 integras but this is the first with this problem…im aware that they have a timer for about 15 mins but hers runs for hours until im able to cycle the key on/off until it turns off. Ive been searching the forum for this topic but no luck so far. other sites are saying its either the relay or timer. I rather hear from a G2 guru from this site seeing how you guys are experts on our cars and helped me out countless times before with archived threads. Any info on this will be greatly appreciated seeing how im hoping to fix it this weekend along with her nuetral/safety switch (famous “key stuck in ignition” issue…lol) From experience, has it been the relay the majority of the time? Possible ECT? Her radiatior and thermostat were done last year, never had a heating issue.
Engine Oil Temp Switch, which is what tells the fan to turn on when the car is off; as described here: http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?196564-Engine-Coolant-amp-Oil-Temp-amp-Pressure-Swiches-Sensors-amp-Sending-Units-Explained
I imagine that switch is going out, causing issues. Next time it happens, try unplugging.said sensor. If the fans stop, the sensor is going bad.
That may not be the issue but it’s a start.
Thanks for the fast response man, and that was a good write up by Colin. It looks like the oil temp switch would make more sense because it sends a signal when the car is off versus the ECT sending a signal while the car is on. I know the relay and timer are other possibilities…i was hoping for a break down on a good troubleshooting approach
I’ve been continuing to search the forum on this topic, was hoping to find a sticky on trouble shooting the issue but alot of threads were left with questions. Others kept referring to the timer which still goes for over 150 brand new…was hoping it was the relay. The fan doesn’t stay on all the time after we shut it off, but when it does, it’ll run forever until the battery dies or I catch it in time…was wondering if the problem being intermittent would help the diagnostic. Still looking toward to some input on this, thanks in advance.
Also, check the RFCM. The Radiator Fan Control Module.
Wouldn’t the RFCM be the same as the timer? If so, then I think its the issue…I called an acura dealer and the rep told his boss the issue and he knew exactly what I was talking about. Also recommended the timer being replaced…but its 160 brand new. I’m assuming these are like the ICU’s and the soldered connections bad. If that’s the case, has anyone heard of or attempted repairing these units by resoldering the connections?
I would follow unified112’s advice. I also think the oil temp switch may be sticking in the closed position but than again wouldn’t timer shut the fan off anyhow. Why not just disconnect the plug at the oil temp switch and drive around a few days and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn’t, it could also be a stuck or sticking closed fan relay since they both are hot at all times. My fan has run a couple of times after shutting down and I cycled my ignition switch to position II and back off and the fan stopped. I don’t know how that works but it did. A few other times and let the fan run and just made sure it had stopped after 15 minutes. Good Luck!
The problem is most likely the timer, [Radiator Fan Control Module] go Canadian, CDM Integras do not have the RFCM, [or the Engine Oil Temperatur Switch] unplug the RFCM to take it out of the circuit, it costs you nothing, probem solved. 94
Thanks for all the input guys. FCM- your suggesting to just unplug the timer right? When I came home her fan was still running, she said she was home for about an hour so it definitely should’ve turned off if functioning properly. I took the opportunity to trouble shoot a little… I located the RFCM and unplugged it, the fan instantly turned off. I read somewhere that the fan timer was used as an added precaution from the factory to prevent damage to the aluminum cylinder head. I’ve also read that they had little affect and some people described it as useless…I’m starting to believe this myself due to the fact that not everybodys DA integra has the fan kick on after they shut it off. And now your saying Canadian models don’t use thus feature so ill feel alot better leaving it unplugged. The fan functions perfectly when driving the car, the car was maintained properly and never had overheating issues, and I live in CT and its in the single digits for temperature out here right now haha. What better cooling feature than the freezing ass wind
And just an added note to my last statement…is the fan timer really necessary? I mean our cars are designed to have the radiator cooling fan run while we drive them like most cars, but many other cars don’t use this feature when they are turned off. Also, when the civic guys swap our engines into their cars, they’re not utilizing this feature either and they don’t run into any issues so why would we right? I guess I’m just saying that wouldnt disconnecting these timers be a logical solution to an annoying problem that have left many of us scratching our heads, and even stranded in some cases. As long as the system is functioning properly while the car is running, then there should be no consequences to this method of fixing this issue. Like FCM stated…the Canadian models didn’t come equipped with these so I think that proves that they aren’t necessary…just my 2 cents…lol.
I believe power to pull the condenser fan relay comes through the cooling fan timer unit. If you remove the cooling fan timer unit than when you turn your A/C on you will not get the condenser fan to run. Additionally, when the coolant temp switch closes both fans should turn on. With the cooling fan timer unit removed you will not get the condenser fan to turn on. The condenser fan is the fan that is controlled by the cooling fan timer unit and the oil temp switch. Run your engine to operating temperature and verify both fans come on when the coolant temperature switch closes. That is my understanding of the system. This information is from a 91 Integra Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.
yea i think your right man, and thanks for the input. im pretty sure the RFCM wouldnt interfere with normal operation of the cooling fan but will definetely prevent the condenser fan from engaging. its extremely cold out here right now so seeing how we wont be using the AC, i think im going to just unplug the unit until i have more time to repair or replace it. i mainly dont feel like dishing out 160 for a new one…has anybody here had success repairing these units? im almost sure its a soldering issue, similiar to the ICU issue that these cars experience. im just not too electrical savy and wouldnt trust myself in fixing the circuit board.
As mentioned, CDM G2 Integras do not have the RFCM, [or oil temp switch] with or without A/C, the ECT switch only turns on the rad fan, all you have if there is no A/C, if you have A/C and the A/C is turned on both the condensor fan and rad fan turn on.
I think the OTS and RFCM was a emissions add on for USDM cars, it was not used on later model Honda/Acura.
Cars that have rad fans that turn on when ign. switch is off simply wire the relay hot instead of switched.
Here is something to think about, if the Oil Temperature Switch controls the RFCM when ign. is off how does running the rad fan cool the oil. :sipread:
^ Yeah, it always seemed unnecessary to me. I wired mine to mimic the CDM cooling fan setup when I did my swap. I know it’s not a huge “clean up” of the engine bay since all you’re really getting rid of is the relays, but still, in my head it “feels” cleaner, lol.
btw, for what it’s worth, ITR’s have the same cooling fan wiring as the CDM DA’s, with the exception being that on the DA the system uses a ground switch and with the DC’s the switch is on the power side.
Is my DA the only one that never has fans running when the car is turned off? Lol.
In the five years I’ve owned it that has never happened… And honestly I’ve never read about this problem either.
Yea, this is one of the notorious issues with DA’s, thanks alot to FCM and the other members who contributed to this thread. I didn’t want this to seem like another “my fan keeps running, help me” thread (although it sort of was, lol). I had a pretty good understanding of the system and the possible causes and already had a feeling it was the timer. I just wanted to go into a little more discussion regarding the timer itself seeing how its such a common culprit. I’ve searched countless times through the forum about the issue and although they provided some great info, they lacked some info pertaining to the RFCM in particular so thanks for not simply telling me to search. Once again, thanks for the input guys and thanks to FCM for clearing up the confusion. I definitely learned alot bro and hopefully this thread will clear up questions for other members as well.
[QUOTE=unified112;2282114]Is my DA the only one that never has fans running when the car is turned off? Lol.
In the five years I’ve owned it that has never happened… And honestly I’ve never read about this problem either.[/QUOTE]
Mine never did either, I didn’t even know it was supposed to until I was doing research for my obd1 conversion. I wouldn’t worry a out it, but if you want to fix it I’m sure it’d be relatively easy to figure out.
Delmar, you likely won’t get a lot of info about the RFCM, it’s not something I’ve really seen people go into any sort of detail about. I think you’ve entered the territory where to gotta figure it out then write about it after you do 
I was gonna post that originally when you posted this but didn’t bother cause that usually irritates people, lol.
I didn’t read all the responses so this might have been mentioned already. Ive been having starting issues lately. After narrowing it down to the switch I pulled it out. I pulled it without unhooking the battery and as soon as I pulled the switch from the lock cylinder my AC condenser (Driver Side) fan came on and stayed on until I unhooked the battery. The switch connectors to the fuse block & main harness were already disconnected and the key wasn’t in the lock cylinder. No idea why it did that but it did. I have deleted my AC but not the circuit so it could’ve opened or closed the fan circuit for some reason I dont know. I dont think you specified which fan since there are 2 so I’d rule that out as the root cause first. Hopefully thats your problem and it will save you from hours of headaches trying to troubleshoot the fan issue. GL, these cars can be dicks sometimes.