So i bought a 90 integra db1 did timing belt/water pump, seals, new radiator and hoses, new thermostat.
ok so im bleeding the air out of the coolant using one of those funnels that screw in with a radiator cap adaptor, so bubbles come out of the coolant everything is going good engine gets to operating temperature but the radiator fan doesnt turn on.
Did some reaserch and checked the switches on the head they seem ok i go to check the one behind the block and it doesnt have the ECT switch and the wires are just hanging there but it has the oil temperature switch and the oil pressure switch. I check the thermostat housing and it has the ECT switch on there.
Correct me if im wrong but do i have a 92-93 motor? and
From what ive read the yel/grn wire from the switch on the back of the block goes directly to the fan and the other blk wire from the switch goes to ground, so is it the same for the switch on the thermostat housing or how do i go about wiring it?:think:
Yes, that means it’s a 92-93 engine. Check your Helms for exact wiring of the switch. It is a ground switch, but on US models, especially those with AC the wiring is a bit more complicated than you’d expect. There both relays and a Fan Control Module. Your Helms will make all of this clear.
Hmm ok yea ive been looking over the wiring diagram and it seems like the switch is connected to to a fan relay on a/c equipped models and those without a/c it goes to fan motor.
Ok so i have an ls integra that had a/c but previous owner took out the a/c so can i hook up the switch like a non a/c model integra?
Yes. I actually changed my fan wiring entirely to avoid all relays and the radiator fan control module. This is how the fan is setup on Canadian non-AC vehicles as well as the ITR (with the exception being that the DA is ground switched and the ITR is power switched). I chose this method of wiring for it’s simplicity and since it meant I could remove more useless shit from my car.
No, doesn’t matter, a switch is just a switch, so once the switch is engaged it’ll supply ground to the fan (the fan is hot all the time). Think about it this way, there will be a wire running from the fan to ground. Somewhere on that wire you need to install the switch. The ground terminal on the fan will run to the switch, then from the switch the other wire leads to ground. When the switch is engaged this will supply ground to the fan.
If you’re going to do away with the relays and RFCM then you’ll want to supply a new hot lead to the fan. There’s one that is already available right at the fan connection. I forget what it was for or the wire color, but it was easy to find when I did my setup.
Ok so if if i wanted to delete the relays and watnot i would just have to support the yel/blk wire on the fan with say a 12v power source like one of the free spades on the inside fuse box and the yel/grn wire goes to one of the pins on the switch and the other pin to ground?
Yup, that’s it exactly. However, don’t run your own hot lead, just use one that’s already in the area. It’ll be WAY cleaner if its just all OEM wiring. When you remove all of the relay and control module items you’ll be left with a bunch of wires that were connected to them. Test all the wires, find one that is hot when the ignition is ON, but cold when the ignition is OFF. Look up the wire color, consult your Helms, and use a multimeter to make sure the circuit that the wire is on is hefty enough for your fan. Use this wire as your hot lead directly to your fan. All other wires should be cut back, taped off and re-wrapped within the harness loom.