So my idle was quite low, bouncing between 250 and 500 rpm. Using a few threads from around g2ic I brought my idle up to somewhere between 750 and 1k, it no longer bounces its nice and steady. So for that I thank you guys, very good info on this site.
But as I was changing the screw, I noticed a vacuum noise coming from my intake, I assume thats normal since it is sucking air when the engine is on. I screwed the screw out a bit (probably around 2 full rotations) to get the idle up to where it should be, and I heard another noise from the intake. The first sound that I heard was still there but there was another deeper sounding vacuum noise coming from a bit higher on the intake. I will try to get a video/sound clip of this new noise, so you guys can hear it for your self. Do you think this is a problem, or since the idle is higer the noise just changed.
When I am playing my sound system as loud as I play it, my idle seems to drop from about 800 to 500, it seems to bounce with the subwoofer. IE my system is playing a song with little or no bass the idle is normal, if there is a lot of bass the idle will go down when the sub hits, is this normal and if not is this an electrical problem? If so how do i fix that?
BTW my thread about diesel spark plugs was a joke, why did it get locked?
There’s other vacuum lines in play, pvc/egr for instance. Vacuum being what it is then at low idle you must have an intake leak to the manifold. Check your supply lines and by the way if you get bogsville at a certain rpm then it’s nearer the intake. Lots of goop buids up, ask any first gen owner.
The car acts fine while I am driving it, even with my system hitting hard the rpm and acceleration are both fine. Its only at idle where the system effects anything(other than lights dimming but a fix is on its way for that already). There is no bogging at all when I am driving, never has been.
I may have found the strange noise, a friend of mine looked at my throttle body and forgot to secure the intake tube to the TB with the hose clamp. I tightened that back up and the noise seemed to either go away or quiet down significantly.
The problem with the sub hitting and the RPM at idle, is that electrical? Is my sub taking power from the distributer while at idle, would the new battery and capacitor fix this, or is it still a vacuum leak that seems to be going along with the sub power draw on my car?
the sub affects the idle because the sub uses electricity.
When the sub hits, it drains the battery and the alternator has to work harder(engine works harder) to compensate for the used electricity from the sub.
When your driving, nothing happens because the alternator is spinning fast enough to where the battery isnt being drained from the sub.
Hope that answers your question about that.
The other question, the sound is probably just from the intake sucking in more air due to the higher idle. If the car wasnt affected in anyway when you started to hear the noise, than there shouldnt be anything wrong.
Do you think that a new battery would help that?
Do you think that a new battery would help that?[/QUOTE]
Get a capacitor 1.0F should work just fine depending on the wattage of your amp. It should eliminate the problem.
A new battery wouldnt help much because the battery is still pushing out 12 volts. Its the power of the sub that is doing the dirty work, a capacitor should help though.
also upgrade the grounds to 2 plus a capacitor
I am running approx 500rms watts(480 or some shit). The guy at best buy said that a 2 farad cap would be the smallest I wanted to go, but then again he did seem like he didnt graduate middle school, so…
If I were to get a 1F cap and a new battery(need one anyway), my lights dimming and my rpm drop should go away, right?
Correct. Though cap’s are generally bandaids. You should upgrade your battery cables, a better battery, and your ground cables at the least.