I did a search of this board for info on rust control, but couldn’t find anything…
I have a few small rust spots that are re-forming after I treated them a few months back. I used a Dremel tool with a fine sanding disc to take the rust and paint off down to bare metal, then I used matching Honda touch-up paint. Now the rust is coming back. What is a better way to do this?? Also, I have some fairly large rust blisters on the roof at the top of the windshield. What’s a good method to use in that situation? Thnx for any info!
usually if you go to an auto supply store there is something you can put on before the paint to prevent rust from re-forming. You could also get your car rustproofed, but that costs a bit more… 
I have the same rust at the top of my windshield. I’m going to be going to a few body shops on friday to get quotes/ideas. I’ll let ya know what I find out (but I fear it will be expensive).
Yeah, have a pro look at it. Otherwise you’ll be doing patchwork for the rest of your integra’s life. Treating your car now with rustproofing may actually be counterproductive. I read somwhere that it may void your insurace because it traps in a lot of the moisture that you’re trying to keep out. The problem is that when Honda made our cars, they didn’t rust proof it very well. For our spoilers, they just drilled holes, droped the thing in and bolted it tight. The rear wheelwell always traps mud, and the rear window seals go bad pretty fast. Good luck, and I hope that repair bill isn’t too bad.
Re: fixing rust spots
Originally posted by 90_RS_2DR
I did a search of this board for info on rust control, but couldn’t find anything…
I have a few small rust spots that are re-forming after I treated them a few months back. I used a Dremel tool with a fine sanding disc to take the rust and paint off down to bare metal, then I used matching Honda touch-up paint. Now the rust is coming back. What is a better way to do this?? Also, I have some fairly large rust blisters on the roof at the top of the windshield. What’s a good method to use in that situation? Thnx for any info!
Did you steal my car? I have those exact same problems, and having a white car doens’t help.
I was looking at this stuff online, recommended by a few friends, and its called POR-15 –> it’s supposed to completely bond to the metal and absolutely stop the rust from re-forming. Check it out at This Site I called them and they say that if applied properly, and if you spray in a laquer primer while the POR-15 is still wet, it will be a completely paintable surface which will never rust again. A body shop around here uses this stuff too, and swears by it.
You may want to check into the Super Starter Kit – I’m ordering one next week to take care of the rust spots around my windshield, rockerpanels, rear wheel wells, and a scrape along my passenger side door. If all goes well, once this minor rust repair is done, I’m going to get the car re-rust proofed (It works, trust me… I had it done 2 years ago, and never saw one speck of rust, but I didn’t do it last fall, and over this winter, a ton of rust spots crept up on me).
Anyhow, good luck, and if anyone has ideas/tips on how to properly fix rust spots, PLEASE let me know in this thread!! 
~Eric
re Rustproofing
I guess it really depends what kind of rustproofing you get… Some you have to get re-done every year, but when I was working at Ming we used a different chemical. When you’re in Winnipeg and you see a 10+ year old Ford Aerostar that was rustproofed when it was new and hasn’t been touched since, and STILL doesn’t have any rust?? you know that stuff works!! 
If I didn’t quit working there when I did, I would have attempted to rustproof the inside of my roof panel, but had to quit… sigh
Anyways I’ve never heard of it trapping moisture resulting in MORE rust, but again, if you’re considering rustproofing, do as much research as you can and find out which places use the best chemicals.
As far as I know, all rustproofing is is an oil-based paste or liquid. As we all know, oil repels water. The oil is “supposedly” attracted to the metal, and therefore pushes the water out, leaving the panel protected. Not sure though… sounds kinda gimmicky, altough it seems to work OK.
I had mine done at wal-mart (I worked there before, and the guys in Automotive swore it was the exact same stuff as Ziebart)… but anyhow, a year later, the oil stuff is dripping from the drain holes in my doorpanels. PISS ME OFF. Gonna get the panels cleaned out and re-rustproofed by a reputable company this time. 
~Eric
Same problem…
Yeah, similar problems here, small bubbles on the driver’s side top of the windshield and the rear wheel wells. I got a lot of quotes last year and it was over $1000 Can to fix most of it and they couldn’t guarantee anything since they never know if it will come back or not…I’m just going to keep patching, priming, and painting so it doesn’t get too noticeable. Short of spending big bucks to get the whole car repainted and filled in, there isn’t an easy solution. Just part of the fun of having an 11 year car I guess.
Here are some clippings. Not sure if it’s car gospel but I figure that the more folks you hear from, the better equipped you are to make your decisions.
http://www.consumerguide.com/index.cfm?act=auto&main=detail&body=../autochannel/article/advice5
Additional Rustproofing
With modern anti-corrosion techniques, aftermarket rustproofing is unnecessary—and may actually be harmful. Also, the plans are often loaded with loopholes. But dealers still push them due to their high profit margins.
Toyota’s statement is typical: “Application of additional rust-inhibiting materials is not necessary.” General Motors goes further, warning that “after-manufacture rustproofing products may create an environment which reduces the corrosion resistance built into your vehicle.” Holes drilled into doors and fenders to apply rustproofing may actually promote rusting and void your factory anti-corrosion warranty.
http://www1.excite.com/home/info/learn2/learnlets_qa_overview/0,14917,auto_1091_0,00.html
LEARNLETS
Should I have my car rustproofed?
Not if it’s a new vehicle (built since 1992). Most newer cars and trucks are made with electroplated galvanized steel in rust-prone areas. This means that if scratched, the steel “heals” itself with a built-in zinc plating. Not only is rustproofing such a vehicle unnecessary, the drilling and spraying that are a part of the process can void the protective warranty offered by most car dealers.
Again, I’m sure there are folks who have had their cars rustproofed and swear by it. It’s funny how different things work for different cars. That super starter kit that curls cited looks pretty good. It’s also obvious why the dealers would say additional rustproofing isn’t needed-it’s saying they didn’t do a good enough job to begin with (which of course is true). My only concern if that there’s something to their story about it being harmful.
http://wxnet4.nbc4.com/answerstoaskliz2002/1281849/detail.html
http://www.innerauto.com/innerauto/text/body07.html
http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1996/September/10.html
http://cars.spancity.com/src/articles/maintenance/
here’s a link that says it doesn’t hurt to rustproof
http://www.ziebartbidd.com/rust.htm