anyone know of anyone doing something like this for the DA?
that one’s for an EG/EK but is there one available for an EF that might fit?
I searched on here and found a Cusco FLTB for the EF that had been made to fit by Archon IIRC (looked very similar to the front section of the above - not sure if that’s a Cusco assembly too).
Would the rear mounting points be differrent as well?
Exactly how far out would an EG one be?
The EG front suspension is quite different, especially the lower control arms.
The Cusco lower bar fits just fine.
the cusco one isnt a 4 point like that. but the cusco one is made for DA/EF
cool - the only issue i have with the Cusco, Archon, is that you mentioned in naother thread having to ‘muscle’ it on, as the EF fitment is slightly the wrong size.
Did you have to stretch it or compress it? As to my mind, if you’re compressing it then you’re doing no good whatsoever, and even if you have to slightly stretch the bar, then surely that indicates that the bar can flex?
It’s actually not that hard to do and I think now that they made it that way on purpose.
The bar needs to flex somewhat – if something is too brittle then it will simply break under stress. There’s something I heard about the bamboo that moves with the wind not breaking…
that pic has a four point because the lower control arms on the EG have four mounting points on the inner part of the arm, and one outter mount. the DA only has one inner mount and one outter mount. you could possibly use that piece but it would have to have at least some kind of bracket to maybe mount to the rear crossmember if anything. mainly because of the position of the steering rack. whereas the civics have the steering rack mounted higher up on the chassis.
lol @ the bamboo, master xep
surely if you need to compress it then it’s not gonna be much use. if you think of the force acting in a corner, or a heavy dip (even at standstill for that matter), it’s trying to push the wheel up, hence compressing an upper strut bar, and tensioning the lower tie bar?
if the ltb is already compressed then isn’t it actually gonna help the lower mounts deflect outwards? I’m no expert, but i always assumed that’s why it’s a ‘tie’ bar, and not a ‘strut’ bar, due to its duty?
if you had to tension it then at least the pre-tension is force acting in the right direction. or maybe it should just be fixed, and help prevent the mounts deflecting in AND out?
anyone see what i mean?
i understand what your saying and it makes alot of sense, but im no suspension “expert” so i cant argue here.
just to come back to this old thread, i’ve just got hold of a cusco lower front tie bar for an EK
the guy measured it at 653mm between the mounting points, i measured 658mm between the centres of the nuts on the front of the subframe on my car
this should mean the bar’s a little tensioned when/if it goes on…
will be trying to get this on soon when it arrives, will report back
just for anyone else interested, this weekend I fitted the Cusco FLTB from an EK model civic.
distance was perfect between mounting points, the only issue was with how the mounting holes actually sat against the subframe, as it would appear the DA has more angled LCA mounts then the EK.
got a few washers out and fitted up perfect, albeit with a bit of fiddling
i honestly think the fltb on a da is a waste after talking to several racers. i have a cusco one on my car, but its coming off this weekend because my new header interferes with it. the problem with them on street cars is they hang low and interfere with just about anything you wanna run through there… good exhaust, downpipe, etc… if you are hoping its going to bolt up and the angles are even the littlest bit off, forget it. i had hell getting the da specific one on, but maybe thats just me/my car. good luck to you, but honestly id spend my money on good coilovers and bushings, or stiffening up the rear, where the da needs it the most.