The drag kit comes w/ a “DRAG Vortech Boost Dependent FMU.” I’m not familiar w/ how this whole aspect of the engine tuning works. Wether I use a standalone or FMU is still undecided. If I replace my ecu w/ a hondata does that do everything that a FMU would do? So I don’t need an FMU at all? The Hondata sounds like a wonderful investment and if it will “simplify” things I might go for it. However, my hp goals are quite timid compared to most in the FI arena. I plan on building a beefy engine but will most likely not push its limits. I’d like to lay down 300fwhp max, 220 to 250 fwhp for daily use, possibly less. I don’t need auto-x everywhere I drive you know This is a non-vtec application.
Will a stock ecu w/ FMU and 310cc injectors be sufficient? Could I run this set-up and then upgrade to a hondata in the future?
Hondata would be my choice, then you could idle 440’s on the street, and with your proposed build-up, I wouldnt doubt that it could hit well over 250hp…
Remember I hit 411.3hp at the wheels with STOCK sleeves and a STOCK head ( only valvesprings and retainers ) It is all in the ECU and TUNING…
let me know if you need any help with parts once you decide, ok?
Ryan
What ECU and fuel management system are you running Ryan? When you have time please post or email me the nitty gritty details of your set-up. 400+! drools… Run that set-up for awhile and if nothing blows up I’m seriously gonna just copy you.
In email you talked about bore size. Isn’t 84.0 mm the same bore as b20? Before I send my block off (well, gotta get a block first:)) to get sleeved I need to make sure I can get pistons of course (and for a reasonable price). What pistons are readily available that will yield a 9.0 or 9.2 cr in a 84.0mm and/or 84.5mm bore. Some people tell me to go w/ the 84.0mm bore because it’s easier/cheaper to find pistons while other tell me to go 84.5 for the same reason.
Thanks for all the advice bro. I’m still full of questions though!
If your budget permits, definitely go with a Standalone unit. The DRAG kit incoropates a Boost Dependent Fuel Pressure Regulator along with an inline-fuel pumpthat increases the Fuel Pressure [x] psi for every pound of boost (With x being dependent on the type of disk that is being used-DRAG uses 10:1, I believe) From what I’ve read, this simple setup maintains safe A/F ratio’s upto the recommended boost levels-10 psi. Therefore, po folk like me can use a VAFC or some sort of piggyback Fuel controller to lean/richen the mixture where needed. Again, this isn’t the best method, but it has proven to be adequate.
4DRB16:How much boost are you runnin to put out that kind of power, inupwards of 25 psi, I’m guessing.
Originally posted by integracon
[B]If your budget permits, definitely go with a Standalone unit. The DRAG kit incoropates a Boost Dependent Fuel Pressure Regulator along with an inline-fuel pumpthat increases the Fuel Pressure psi for every pound of boost (With x being dependent on the type of disk that is being used-DRAG uses 10:1, I believe) From what I’ve read, this simple setup maintains safe A/F ratio’s upto the recommended boost levels-10 psi. Therefore, po folk like me can use a VAFC or some sort of piggyback Fuel controller to lean/richen the mixture where needed. Again, this isn’t the best method, but it has proven to be adequate.
4DRB16:How much boost are you runnin to put out that kind of power, inupwards of 25 psi, I’m guessing. [/B]
Integracon: So if I invest in a standalone, then I don’t need the inline fuel pump & boost dependent FMU? Is that correct? The standalone does it ALL:)
What’s the differences betweeen an FMU and an FPR?
Integracon: So if I invest in a standalone, then I don’t need the inline fuel pump & boost dependent FMU? Is that correct? The standalone does it ALL:)
What’s the differences betweeen an FMU and an FPR?
Thanks,
Leif [/B]
Well, FMU is a generic term. One could say an FPR is a type of FMU, see what I mean?
The IN-line is going up the fuel pressure, DRAG uses it in conjuction with the FPR cause they figure MORE FUEL is better than LESS. I would think you could use the inline with the standalone unit, cause the same would apply. But your right, you shouldn’t need to.
I’m runnin the DRAG setup (inline + FPR) since I don’t plan on going higher than 10psi. I’m not sure if any of the other Turbo guys are runnin a Standalone for sure.
I appreciate your help Rob. As you can see I’m just getting started and still have some elementary questions. Hopefully one day I’ll get my facts straight and be boosting too!
AMERIKAN: OF COURSE, as soon as my digital camera comes back to me…probably saturday. ( or i will e-mail it to ya, and you can post it…i have no pic host )
INTEGRACON: I was runnin 24 psi, with 118 octane, and everything maxed out…when the dyno sheet is posted, you can see that the injectors stopped flowing at 7000rpm, and my power droped from 411hp, to about 375hp at 8700 rpm…
This was a NON TUNED PULL, meaning that we ran it, and didnt mess with anything cus we thought 400+ was enough
But before the track we will mess with it some more…
Now I need bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump. I just bought that stuff…
LEIF: As far as what ecu I am runnin, lets just say it is not hondatta, or dfi, or zdyne… ( dont need people breaking down my door to get my s-h-i-t ya know…) that will give you an idea of what it is…
Injectors are RC 550cc peak and hold…AEM Fuel Rail…SX Regulator…Walborro 255 in tank fuel pump for 94+ gsr…
leif, anyone who can afford to sleeve their motor should have enough money to buy a true standalone system. i think a hondata 2b should be plenty adequate for your application. add to that 550cc injectors (so u will always have extra fuel on tap should the desire arise to generate more power) & you will have an engine easily capable of 350+ hp.
and since you say this is mainly a street car, i would run 10:1 cr pistons. it will give you noticeably better off-turbo response & allow you to run less boost to make the same (or similiar) power levels. the only thing to be careful of is that higher compression requires good tuning.
you will need a fuel pump with hondata, but you won’t need the fmu or missing link anymore.
nice #'s 4drb16, you must be running a big turbo as well…
yeah it’s possible that you could be running out of turbo, especially if it’s just an off the shelf turbo. the reason i had thought it was a big turbo was because i thought you had a b16a motor, not an ls-vtec one.
Originally posted by qwkteg125
[B]leif, anyone who can afford to sleeve their motor should have enough money to buy a true standalone system. i think a hondata 2b should be plenty adequate for your application. add to that 550cc injectors (so u will always have extra fuel on tap should the desire arise to generate more power) & you will have an engine easily capable of 350+ hp.
and since you say this is mainly a street car, i would run 10:1 cr pistons. it will give you noticeably better off-turbo response & allow you to run less boost to make the same (or similiar) power levels. the only thing to be careful of is that higher compression requires good tuning.
you will need a fuel pump with hondata, but you won’t need the fmu or missing link anymore.
nice #'s 4drb16, you must be running a big turbo as well… [/B]
qwkteg
That helps me out very much. This is still quite new to me.
So… 550cc injectors will not be overkill and will be reasonable for a streetcar? While running low boost and idling I won’t run rich and bog down? I’m guessing the hondata will ensure that this will not occur?
Stock But as soon as I get enough cans together, I’m going to run RC 310’s [/B]
I think American is still selling some RC 310’s almost brand new for a pretty reasonable price. I still may buy them if no one else does but I’m starting to think I could use something a little bigger. Probably best to just call RC to make sure.
But as soon as I get enough cans together, I’m going to run RC 310’s 
)
