My fogs decided not work one day so i went down to check the fuse and it was blown. I replaced it with another then turned the fogs on they went on for a few seconds then blew. I turned them off and replaced the fuse and forgot about it. I went to turn them on and nothing… I checked the fuse and its fine. I assume the bulbs are ok unless the last time the fuse blew both bulbs blew as well.
Suggestions?
Check the bulbs.
Yeah…ill get to it but big paintball game this weekend so ill have to check it all when I get back I know I just replaced one of the bulbs back in the fall but I guess I have the worst luck. Anywho yea… I’ll check the bulbs.
Thanks.
Alright I checked the bulbs…they are fine. I went behind the buttons where the fog and defroster switch are and (i did the rewire with the fogs) i took it all apart to do it a bit better and neater with the clips and everything I’ll do that tomorrow. When I connect the two wires the light goes on on the switch but still no fogs and I can hear a clicking down by my feet guessing thats the fuse box telling me its getting power, i dont know, I just want them working. I might take off the whole black panel to get behind there.
The “clicking” you hear is the fog light relay, meaning the fog light switch is working, it is energizing, [turning on] the relay, check the fog light fuse again, fuse 19 - 15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
Make sure both test tips have power, if they do the problem is after the fuse, if neither test tip has power, the problem is before the fuse, if one has power and the other does not, it’s the fuse.
However, the problem is a short, it’s what is blowing the fuse, the short may now be an “open” circuit, [fuse now longer blows, but fogs don’t work].
Do you have a multimeter?:hmm:94
So all i have to do is test each side of the fuse slot? Im not to familiar with testing electronics… And no I dont own any testing equipment if its under 20 bucks ill go out and buy it tomorrow.
You can get that screwdriver thing with the ground and light in the handle.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103174&cp=&fbn=Type%2FDigital&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FDigital&fbc=1&fr=StorePrice%2FRSK%2F00001000%2F00004999&kw=multimeter&parentPage=search it will pay for itself in no time.
Yes test both test tips of fuse, [it should show 12V+ on both tips] if the fuse is good thew problem is down line, find the relay, unplug it and test for power at the relay plug, you should find one terminal that is hot at all times, [from fuse 19] another that is hot when fog light switch is on, leaving you with two, one will be ground for relays coil, [it will shoe full continuity to ground] the other is the fog lights it will also show continuity but with resistance, bulb filaments] if it shows full continuity, there is a short to ground, if it shows no continuity the circuit is open, [brake in line or bulbs are burnt out.
Again, there must have been a short for the fuse to blow in the first place, it’s just a matter of finding where that problem is/was.
Have you pulled and checked the bulbs yet?:hmm:94
Alright I’m gonna go head over to radio shack now, yes i have checked the bulbs, but i’ll check again along with the fuse.
I bought the meter and still not sure on how to use it but I did take off the plastic with all the buttons and re did all the wiring and i turned the car on and they went on. Must of just been a bad/no connection.
Thanks though.