[QUOTE=s20700134;1947175]It’s been a while since I’ve been on here or even driven a DA. Recently, my friend got one of his own seeing how absolutely awesome mine was. Anywho, he wanted me to rewire his foglights for him so i came on here and looked in the teg tips very quick, and I noticed that there wasn’t a small tut to rewire them the “non share power with the defroster” way on the list.
Call me stupid if someone has previously brought forward this issue, but why hasn’t it been added to the list. In my case, I had already known the convenient alternative to the traditional way, but had I been another DA owner that wasn’t so great at using the search button, I would have gone and cut up my nice wiring and junk.
I believe that cutting the red/yellow wire, connecting/crimping this wire to a longer wire about maybe 3 feet long with a butt connector, crimping a female spade connector to the other side, and connecting it to one of the accessory spades just above the in car fuses at the driver side kick panel…MUCH more convenient, MUCH less intruding, and…quite frankly, a cleaner way of doing job compared to the traditional “sharing power form the defroster” technique.(REALLY LONG AND BADLY STRUCTURED SENTENCE OVER GET).[/QUOTE]
I fail to see how wiring it to the rear defrost is a difficult/intruding/messy way of doing it?
In fact, the wiring to the fuse box method seems to fit that description a lot better, but maybe that’s just me?
And if you do it properly (i.e. soldering the connection) you should never have any issues.
i’m planning on rewiring my fogs but i want it wired like when i turn on the park light the fogs should turn on with the fog switch on, and turn off when i turn the park light off even the fog switch is on “but” won’t turn on until the park light is on…
That’s an odd way of doing it, and you would probably have to tap in to the headlight-switch…
Why would you want the fogs to be off even with the switch On? Sounds like it is going to require more work than just tapping into the switch next to the Fog switch. Because then your fog switch is completely independent of the headlight switch… The fogs just have a constant Hot connection and will turn on whenever the button is on. Seems plenty easier and more of a common-sense way of wiring it, rather than having anything to do with the headlight switch and its position.
I’m with red.line, really… I see no issues in wiring the switch in with the Defrost button if properly done right. That’s how mine has been for about 2 years with no issues.
*A provides a constant 12v
*B provides 12v with parking/indicator lights
*C provides a constant 12v, has its own circuit and uses fuse 13
*D provides 12v when switch is on “accessory” and on
*E provides 12v when ignition is “on”
did some research online, found a diagram of the box and dug up what each pin does. There you go.[/QUOTE]
I’m a bit confuzzled on this, anyone have pictures to guide me in getting my foglights to turn on and off independantly? & my bumper lights to stay on like dc2 bumper lights? please and thank you’s
[QUOTE=Mexicanpollo;2017502]It was fairly simple all you have to do its cut the wire
that is red and has a streak of yellow in it about 2 in. from the switch
then put electrical tape on the un-used which is the end not attached to the switch. Then you use butt connectors to connect the red/yellow wire to your wire that goes to the fuse box. Also you should used an ATC mini Fuse holder and get 3A Fuses to power the lights better. No grounding is needed. just connect and your done.
(with help From FCM)
This is my set up for rewiring the fogs . I used the remote wire for an amp since i didnt want to go buy new wire at the store for 7 bucks a roll.[/QUOTE]
can some one do step by step with pictures? im not good with reading and on top of that im not to good with wires lol.but pictures and videos would be best for me
[QUOTE=Mexicanpollo;2017502]It was fairly simple all you have to do its cut the wire
that is red and has a streak of yellow in it about 2 in. from the switch
then put electrical tape on the un-used which is the end not attached to the switch. Then you use butt connectors to connect the red/yellow wire to your wire that goes to the fuse box. Also you should used an ATC mini Fuse holder and get 3A Fuses to power the lights better. No grounding is needed. just connect and your done.
(with help From FCM)
This is my set up for rewiring the fogs . I used the remote wire for an amp since i didnt want to go buy new wire at the store for 7 bucks a roll.[/QUOTE]
so i would have to connect one end to the fog switch and the other end to the fuse box right?
*A provides a constant 12v
*B provides 12v with parking/indicator lights
*C provides a constant 12v, has its own circuit and uses fuse 13
*D provides 12v when switch is on “accessory” and on
*E provides 12v when ignition is “on”
did some research online, found a diagram of the box and dug up what each pin does. There you go.[/QUOTE]
this is a blast from the past bump and i betting that i wont get much assistance but it’s worth a shot. the 2 of the 3 of these C, D, E spades for some reason have gone dead basically. i connect my foglight to all but one and they dont work. anyone had this issue?:uhoh:
I was able to do that with my Rigid Industries auxiliary lights. Added a extra relay and took the signal of the park light towards the trigger switch of the relay. Instantly the expected outcome was achieved.
