given the following observations:
1)for photographic inaccuracies, the spark plug tip is white as the ceramic.
2)implied i have an Adjustable fuel pressure regulator; psi@Zero mBar. The car is WITHIN spec according to this gauge and i think it’s reasonably accurate.
3)i cannot recall changing the fuel filter during my 3 years of ownership. it was ‘Supposedly’ done when i bought the car; however, i unable to confirm. i dont want to hear about spec intervals, i know it already.
4)i have thrown a code 43 in the past (approx 1.5 years ago), prior to ‘ROM tuning’ and my o2 sensor was a New OEM sensor at the time. i have reasonable suspicion to believe the rom tuning has caused my ECU less likely to throw codes like this. i dont think i am exceeding 85% injector duty cycle
5)my setup isnt too crazy: i would consider it close to a n/a b18c(5) with a few extra mods.
6)230miles per tank (100% street)
7)due to the fact that i have a FPR, the helm’s premise for replacing the filter is invalid since i can ‘adjust’ the pressure to tune spec
8)i dont know if i am at a loss of power (i have no real comparison - i own 2DBs, other is stock). i recently dynoed at near 160whp. i can easily spank type R’s in a straight line the way it runs now. i would like to think i am losing power so that if i replace this stupid thing id pick up more easy power =)
9)85% water temp at times (rare). i usually turn on the heater and itll stay at 50%. i have an automatic radiator (a little bigger i think), mugen thermostat, and no cooling fans at all. running maybe 20% antifreeze with water and waterwetter. the car warms up to 45% instantly within 30 seconds of starting & easy driving.
10)gastank level makes a very noticable difference in power. when the car is under 1/4 tank the car really feels slow as hell (i dont believe the meter is wrong either). at full it feels much more powerful and i feel it degrading realtime as i use up gas. my low end feels like it’s fucked up 0-4000rpms
i believe i will need a new tune after replacing the fuel filter huh? cuz my whole fuel curve will change…shit
dont tell me to just replace to test for $25. i want a more thorough explanation first. im gonna replace it anyway…eventually
i am hypothetically considering a dying fuel pump or clogged PRE filter also. i dont think i need bigger injectors at this point…