[QUOTE=Denied;2320924]Thats as good a pic i can take but u can see the o - rings… yours look similar?[/QUOTE]Identical down to the tiny letters on the rim, but with no o-rings, just empty grooves. I sent them an e-mail yesterday.
edit:
I guess they are sending a replacement, this time with the o-rings.
pretty sure the bypass solenoid is there to combat vapor lock. it would make the most sense, since it ramps up fuel pressure when hot
Maybe, but if you look at the conditions of when it actually starts working, (ill post back with its official purpose out of the manual) i guess in some climates it would play a bigger role but where i live i never see snow, we do have some hot days tho (40c+).
Main reason im confident enough to bypass the solenoid is that on the B18b/1 intake manifold, the fpr vacuum hose goes straight into a line at the from of the manifold… weve got the nipple at the back of the manifold instead, with the solenoid the only difference.
Id normaly say to just leave it, but i started cleaning up my engine bay when i had the head off for repair, just something to do really, but ive gotten really into it, so its only for cosmetic reasons.
PMI, that is so wierd! Hope it doesnt take long to get there, hope your happy with it in the end, when you compare it to your oem one you can tell it will give a good seal…
just a word of warning, i snapped two of the bolts taking out the cam cap, be gentle!
Thanks for the warning about the bolts, I am REALLY hoping in that location they will not be rusted. I have already snapped a couple on this car, despite liberal use of PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench.
Some of the 6-mm bolts on this car were not good quality steel. Not all of them, but some. For example, the bolts with published torque specs which hold critical parts all came out OK, but some in non-critical locations subject to rust come out with bad threads.
I have to chase almost every thread exposed to weather, and replace almost every bolt. Some will have to be drilled out, and retapped to 8-mm or replaced with rivet nuts eventually, but right now I don’t have the time for that… 
It will take a week to get the second plug, but I am up to my ears in other repairs and maintenance, so thats ok.
Opinions on the FPR solenoid seem to vary. Here’s what I found when I was researching it:
Integra Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve
…not just for starting the motor but also for idling and low load conditions when the motor is heatsoaked…
The intake air temp sensor (IAT) reads artificially high when the engine has been shut off and restarted a short time after due to the high underhood temps and no airflow around the sensor. This causes the ECM to deliver less fuel causing the engine to run too lean until enough air passes around the IAT to bring it down to normal temperatures. The ECU uses this solenoid to allow the FP regulator to see atmospheric pressure instead of vacuum pressure increasing fuel pressure to overcome the momentary lean conditions on a hot restart…
I don’t think doing a test of how the car re-starts and runs on a hot day will do any harm. All you have to do is unplug the connector, drive the car until the engine is good and hot, stop and turn off the engine, wait a minute or two, and try to start it again. If it takes more than the normal few cranks to start, you know the answer.
I can’t do a fair test in Wisconsin, but I did drive and start the car for a few days with the solenoid disconnected, and did not notice anything different under normal daily temps.
yea that explaination sounds pretty solid actually
Yea it does too, I think ill try running it for a week or two, then do two weeks without it… see if the difference is noticable… some things are worth trying just out of curiosity, this might be one of em…
Its still coming out in the end tho! lol … unless it does play up without it!