Hi guys , i was just wondering if i could just run the line to the back of the manifold without going through the solenoid?
Only reason is to tidy the bay alittle, but thanks in advance.
Most likely, it can be bypassed safely. There was a related discussion 2~3 weks ago. That thread died… Since then, I have tested disabling that solenoid (unplugging the connector), and my car starts and runs fine, however - it is not very hot in Wisconsin right now, and that solenoid is supposed to help eliminate re-start issues with a hot engine. Basically, the ECU actuates that solenoid for a brief time when starting a hot engine, under conditions when the Intake Air Temp sensor may be reading the engine temperature instead of the air intake temp.
You get a little more fuel pressure, and therefore more fuel on a hot restart, making starting easier. It is not an emissions feature, and not related to the adjacent solenoid which controls the charcoal canister purge. Personally, I am thinking about disabling or taking out both of them (my car does not have to pass an emissions test any more), but i think it was a thoughtful feature in its day.
Cool, thanks for the reply, i was reading that other thread too but yea died out…
I was planning on doing exactly what you said in regard to the charcoal filter, just remove it all, and run a vent to the spot near in the fender.
Ive also read that its possible to run the map sensor off one of the plugs on the back of the manifold too, instead of running off the throttle body, any idea if that would work fine?
Thanks again
[QUOTE=Denied;2320664]Ive also read that its possible to run the map sensor off one of the plugs on the back of the manifold too, instead of running off the throttle body, any idea if that would work fine?..[/QUOTE]I am sure it would work, but I don’t know about “fine”. Depends on how picky you are about engine performance.
I did not examine the location of those vacuum line ports closely, but on some Honda and Euro engines they are selected with great care, so the MAP sensor reads exactly. You can’t move a vacuum sense point to just anywhere in the air stream and get an identical result (been there, tried that).
MAP sensors on some cars can be very sensitive to relocation, if they don’t read exactly what the engine designer (or tuner) intended, they can screw up the fuel maps, and on a performance tuned engine, that can be truly catastrophic if you do it without a new tune.
On some cars engine designers have replaced the MAP (Manifold-Air-Pressure) sensor with the more accurate MAF (Mass-Air-Flow) sensor. The MAP sensor is subject to error when the air density changes due to normal daily temp variations. MAF sensors measures air flow accurately regardless of air density. In practice the difference is tiny, but manufacturers obviously seem to think the higher cost of the MAF sensors is worth it.
On the other hand, if you are doing up the engine bay for show, go for it, it will work well enough (and pls post pics for the rest of us… :D)
Thanks for that PMI, makes sense just to leave it running off the throttle body after reading that. Might just tuck it down behind the intake manifold so it cant be seen for now, at least ill be able to get rid of those ugly metal hard lines.
Its definantly not going to be a show car!, i went out there to chance the cam plug of all things and ended up deciding that i might as well paint the valve cover while i was at it… then out came the intake manifold and wiring , well, just cuz i was there! kinda snowballed from there, im sure you know how it goes!
Ill start my own thread with some pictures soon as its back together tho.
Thanks again tho PMI.
How about just relocating it?. Here’s how I relocated one of my solenoids. Pic is from mock up, finished product involved a modified/simplified bracket which is just big enough to hold the solenoid and not big and bulky like the stock one.
You are welcome. Sounds like what I am doing, started replacing a hose clamp, and now I am getting a new radiator, LOL.
Btw, are you replacing the CAM plug with the OEM part, or one of the aluminum aftermarket ones with the O-rings?
[QUOTE=Colin;2320686]How about just relocating it?. Here’s how I relocated one of my solenoids. Pic is from mock up, finished product involved a modified/simplified bracket which is just big enough to hold the solenoid and not big and bulky like the stock one. [/QUOTE] I like it!
Where did you put the MAP sensor? Is it on the inside of the firewall?
I would be inclined to leave the MAP sensor port where it is, and I would move the MAP sensor toward the Passenger side and and shorten up that vacuum line so it does not have to run from one side of the manifold to the other.
Ok, after afew hours messing around in the engine bay ive decided to run the fpr hose straight to the back of the manifold and that gets rid of one soleniod off the bracket, next
Make a bracket and move the map sensor closer to the throttle body side of the engine bay like PMI mentioned, hidden out of view, ill just extend the wires for that.
Im still not 100% decided on the charcoal canister, so ill leave it there for now and tuck the solenid on its own bracket lower on the firewall, as hidden as possible. Then decide later on whether to remove it altogether.
Next on my want list is a catch can cuz after cleaning my intake arm and throttle body, i like the idea of keeping the oil outa there… dont worry, thell be a thread for that too!
PMI: The cam plug is a skunk2 one, with the 3 orings… looks like it would work alot better than the oem ones… ill try post some pictures of what ive done so far…
I envy you guys in the US, i bought a valve cover gasket kit from the US and even with postage, it was less than half the cash i was quoted from honda australia… I paid $45 delivered… compared to $120 here!
[QUOTE=Denied;2320693]PMI: The cam plug is a skunk2 one, with the 3 orings… looks like it would work alot better than the oem ones… ill try post some pictures of what ive done so far…[/QUOTE]Thanks, thats good to hear from someone who has installed it. It can be difficult to know what makes sense, and what is just for show.
[QUOTE=Denied;2320693]I envy you guys in the US, i bought a valve cover gasket kit from the US and even with postage, it was less than half the cash i was quoted from honda australia… I paid $45 delivered… compared to $120 here![/QUOTE]That must be because the exchange rate is in your favor… 
[QUOTE=PMI;2320688]I like it!
Where did you put the MAP sensor? Is it on the inside of the firewall?
I would be inclined to leave the MAP sensor port where it is, and I would move the MAP sensor toward the Passenger side and and shorten up that vacuum line so it does not have to run from one side of the manifold to the other.[/QUOTE]
I have an ITR throttle body, so my MAP sensor is located on the throttle body. I removed the original firewall mounted MAP sensor.
Thats another thing i was thinking about, upgrading the throttle body to one with the map senson on it… but that would be way down the track.
My first car was an Integra nearly 20 years ago, and i loved that thing, thats why i picked up another one to tinker with… to bring back its former glory 
After all the cleaning, i want to get it handling alittle better, then maybe worry about adding afew extra hp… or kw, as we call em in oz! lol
This is off topic, but ive heard people mention spot welding the chassis (just cuz of its age), has anyone done this before? worth it?
And im trying to work out how to post pics so hopefully ill have afew to put up
Cheers guys
Unless you’re already stripping the car for track-only use then stitch welding (not spot welding) is not worth the time. In order to do it properly you really need to do the entire car, which means you should acid dip it then put it on a rotisserie to weld the entire unibody structure.
[QUOTE=Denied;2320723]… After all the cleaning, i want to get it handling alittle better, then maybe worry about adding afew extra hp… [/QUOTE]There seem to be lots of options for better handling, but “afew extra hp” in a non Vtec engine may be tough. Seems like you either go for the all-in turbo option for lots more power, or leave it alone.
Thanks for info Colin, i definantly dont need to go to those legths but at least i know what it means now! 
And yea, as far as im going engine mod wise, is maybe an intake, and ive already got a cat back exhaust, so ill bolt that on … thats about it… i know its not a “fast” car, but they are fun to drive so thats why ill just stick to handling mods for now, replace all the old rubber bushings, then a sway bar, etc just to freshen it up suspension wise.
As for the engine, im still undecided on whether to turbo or not, but ive got too many miles on the block anyway, so im not gonna waste any money on it… When it dies, ill most likelly just stick a std B18c in there, probably the easiest option, ill be happy with that and if not, theres heaps of options for the vtec engine, and you get alot more return for your money, so it feels like a waste spening any serious dollars on the B18a1.
Thanks for all your help guys, its much appreciated!
The catback is nice to have, but the other bolt-ons like the cold air intake, exhaust header etc., will ONLY make measurably more horsepower if you make other mods. So if you buy a chipped ECU, different head, or change CAM timing, or tune the engine, the intake and exhaust become significant b/c you have more air flow in and out of the engine. Even then, only at VERY high rpm. They do look cool when you open the hood tho…
Tightening up the suspension, steering, shifting etc. seems to make a difference on these cars (have not got that far on mine, but I assume its similar to other Hondas from the '90s). How are your rear trailing arm bushings and control arm bushes? (I would bet that I will get the best improvement for the lowest cost once I replace those, so Im curious what other people think)
Thats where im at now, going over the whole car and replacing everything thats worn out, very slowly i might add, things start getting expensive pretty quickly! Comes with the territory i guess
So far, only things i have done to the engine are mostly general maintanance, new filters, plugs/leads, thermostat, pcv valve, belts, oil and coolant flushes etc … and removed the intake manifold for a clean/paint, deleted the fitv too, dunno why, just for a cleaner look really. Made a block off plate for that and came up nice… i also took an angle grinder to the intake manifold!, but a picture will show what i did alot better than i can explain it! Again, out of pure boredom… but it does make it look neater. lol
It had been sitting there for a year or so, but after alittle work, got it running and idleing almost perfectly!, i thought it ran pretty good, but you gotta hand it to honda, when i took the valve cover off there were 3 rocker arms (?) just sitting in amongst the cams! Two intake valves on different cylinders, and an exhaust valve on the 3rd cylinder! Luckily there was no damage whatsoever, so popped them back in, re-adjusted all the valves, and it ran like a champ! Couldnt believe it!
All (or most) of the bushes, including the trailing arm bushes will be done in the next month or so, so ill let you know how that goes, need (want) a rear sway bar too cuz the standard one is tiny! That should help too. Also plan on swapping the shifter linkages (i think thats what there called!) from a dc integra, ive read alot of good things about that, but again, im in no rush atm.
[QUOTE=Denied;2320693]PMI: The cam plug is a skunk2 one, with the 3 orings… looks like it would work alot better than the oem ones… ill try post some pictures of what ive done so far…[/QUOTE]Mine just came in the mail yesterday, in a nice skunk2 package, orings NOT included… is that how yours came, you have to get the orings separately?
What?! Kinda useless without the o-rings, unless its a different design but i dont think so… send it back, ive gotten afew things in the mail that werent what they should be, very frustrating since you gotta wait even longer!
But id definantly email the place you got it from, let me know how you go.
Thats as good a pic i can take but u can see the o - rings… yours look similar?