Fuel problem starting issue, possibly spark...?

Car is a 92 Integra b18a. Have replaced fuel filter, just about every ingnition part and am still having same issue, which is:

Car will start fine for few days, out of nowhere won’t turn over. However if it won’t start and I just let it sit and come back to it a little later it will start. Once it is started it doesn’t stall, idle remains fine and it runs as if there is not a problem. I figured that it was just debris in the tank either clogging the filter or pump but like I said once it starts it has never stalled out. So that makes me wonder what it could be. The old filter was full of crap when I pulled it but who knows how old it was when I got the car. If I keep up at this rate I will have replaced every single ignition and fuel delivery part. I don’t see ground loose or vacume line.

Figured I would post here and see what ideas you all may have. I am getting tired of being stranded and afraid to drive it.

wow sounds almost exactly wats been happening to me, except my stalls once in a while. have u tried ur distributor cap. mine was bad. now i think i have a fuel pressure problem, u might want to check that also

was going to try replacing that next…

Have you replaced the coil? Also, when it doesn’t start can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?

first, stop replacing parts blindly.
second, what happens when you try and start it? does the starter click? does it crank? nothing at all?

[QUOTE=welfare;2169750]first, stop replacing parts blindly.
second, what happens when you try and start it? does the starter click? does it crank? nothing at all?[/QUOTE]

To answer the post two up yeah the previous owner had replaced cap. I so far have replaced the fuel filter as I thought it was debris in the tank. To give you a little history on the car I think the previous owner had it sitting for a while and had problems with it so he sold it to me for 1k. He of course didn’t say he was struggling with it when I bought it but as I said I can see lots of new parts under the hood (wires, plugs, cap etc.) so he couldn’t figure it out. Plus he was a bit shady about making sure I knew it was “as is” and had it started when I came to pick it up which let me know for sure something was up with it. Anyhow, I figured because it was sitting crap in tank was getting stuck in pump or filter. When it does not start I can hear the pump but it just cranks without turning over. If I come back later it cranks and turns over and drives with no issues. I doubt it is the pump, when it starts it runs with no problems like I said, doesn’t stall, never dies out on me and no idle fluctuation. Little baffled but I figured this would be the place to go, this is my first Honda always had VW’s. Not very familiar with the quirks yet on these, figured maybe it was something simple and common. Thanks for the help. Chris

it is most likely the fuel pump relay. 75 bucks new and your good to go. i had that prob and eventually it does it more and more and eventually just wont start. you said it cranks over…as in turns over? does it turn over every time just doesnt start?

it will go three or four times and crank/start up and then out of nowhere it just cranks but won’t start. Sometimes this happens within a few minutes of it having just been running. It turns over every time but sometimes it is as though it is out of gas. Come back a little later, sometimes ten minutes sometimes a few hours and…it starts right up. Is this what was going on with yours?

Your symptoms sound most likely to be bad solder joints in the
Main Fuel Relay. It is better and cheaper to take yours out and
re-solder it than to replace it.
What happens is over time, the old lead solder point contacts develop
cracks in them from years of constant hot and cold. The old lead solder
used back then is prone to doing this. This also causes the flux in the solder
to burn and creates more resistance on the terminals. Take all the old lead
solder off and re-solder it with newer lead free solder.

This takes about 20 minutes tops and costs nothing if you already have
a solder gun sitting around. Your original Relay is superior to any you can buy
at a common parts store, like autozone or o’rielley.

[QUOTE=paul06660;2169927]Your symptoms sound most likely to be bad solder joints in the
Main Fuel Relay. It is better and cheaper to take yours out and
re-solder it than to replace it.
What happens is over time, the old lead solder point contacts develop
cracks in them from years of constant hot and cold. The old lead solder
used back then is prone to doing this. This also causes the flux in the solder
to burn and creates more resistance on the terminals. Take all the old lead
solder off and re-solder it with newer lead free solder.

This takes about 20 minutes tops and costs nothing if you already have
a solder gun sitting around. Your original Relay is superior to any you can buy
at a common parts store, like autozone or o’rielley.[/QUOTE]

Sounds worth a try. I will do this tomorrow after work

when it won’t start, check for spark. pay close attention to the quality of spark as well. it should be consistent and not random.
if that checks out, crack the line at the rail, place a rag underneath, and have someone blip the key to check for fuel.
obviously, these checks can only be exercised when the problem occurs so do whatever you can to coerce it.

you can try either test first

No I was referring to the ignition coil, not the distributor cap. It is common for a coil or ignitior to cause a no start. Not saying that’s what it is but something to check. If you say that when it cranks you hear the pump run then I do not think it is the main relay. When you turn the key on, the check engine light will come on, you should hear the pump prime, then stop and the light will go out. If all this happens the main relay is functioning properly. As welfare just said above when it doesn’t start check for spark and fuel. If you hear the fuel pump run then my guess is the problem lies with some faulty ignition component.