ok, with my current problems, it looks like I am going to proceed with replacing the fuel pump. I still have to check for voltage at the pump/sender, and if its there, the pump is dead. I pulled the test bolt out today and tried to crank it and nothing came from it. Also, I have swapped the Main Fuel relay and that did nothing either. I want some info from someone that has replaced the fuel pump in the tank, how difficlut is it? Also, with 3/4 of a tank of gas, would it be easier to just pay a mechanic to change it? I have the haynes manual and it looks pretty easy, but can someone give me some reassuring first?
Did you checked all the fuses before assuming it’s your fuel pump? I know fuse #24 is gonna disable your fuel pump… are the lights in the dash lighting up as normal? (mostly the battery light, she’s supposed to light up when you turn the key to the ON position)
I once had the fuse #24 problem… I almost replaced my ECU, but I found out about this fuse seconds before buying a new ECU!!
I haven’t checked all the fuses yet, but I will before I start the fuel pump. From the pictures, it looks like they didn’t even drop the tank. I thought you had to drop the tank to do the pump? I have the 3dr hatchback. Is it possible to do this without dropping the fuel tank? Thanks for the link.
I swapped my pump out for an inline high volume one. Make sure it really is your pump first, try jumpering the connections to the pump that are under the back seat directly to the battery (use a fuse or breaker with the jumper wires just in case), and see if the pump turns on. On mine, I thought that my pump was bad, but it turned out to be a loose ground in the engine compartment keeping the pump from starting.
As for doing the swap, it’s not too hard. You will have to drain your tank, either pump it out or undo the drain bolt on the bottom of it and catch the gas in a large container. I found I couldn’t get a pump hose to get down into the tank because of one of the bends in the fill neck, so I had to drain it. Be VERY careful draining it though, since gas is explosive . To drop the tank, you’ll need to unscrew that plate on the back seat that the wiring connector is connected to, then feed the wiring connector through the hole. Then under the car you’ll have to disconnect all the hoses for the tank (an assortment of different shaped pliers will greatly aid in this task, the most useful of the ones I used was a set of extended bent head needlenose that are roughly 12" long) The hardest hose I had to disconnect was the fill neck hose. Be careful not to tear or break it because it’s a custom molded piece that you’ll need to order from acura if you break it, and I recall it was around 26 bucks. Once the hoses are off, just undo the two straps holding the tank on (on a side note, you might want to replace the straps or at least the T bolts, since they’re probably rusted, and if you can get the nuts back on, you’ll probably not be able to get them off without cutting later on if you need to drop the tank ever again). Once the straps are off, the tank should just fall right out (might want to use a jack to support it while undoing the straps), then on the top of the tank, there is a plate with a ring of nuts around it, just undo the nuts, and the pump assmebly should come out. Once you get the assembly out it’s pretty straightforward to remove it. Then just reverse the removal procedure to put it back.
Is it possible to us an inline pump instead of replacing the tank drop in pump? Also, if I used an inline pump,do I still need to remove the intake pump, or can I just install an inline and not worry about the other? Installing an inline pump would be much easier…
You apparently can use an inline pump with an intank pump, but I’ve never tried it. I did remove my intank pump and just ran a hose with an 86-89 integra prefilter on it and used a few wire ties to hold the hose in position. I wasn’t sure if you could run an inline with an intank, or with a broken intank, but from what I’ve read, it sounds like it’s definitly possible and has been done before. The only thing that MIGHT be a problem is if your intank pump is broken, it might create too much of a restriction for the inline to suck properly, but I dunno, I tend to doubt it. If you’re willing to spend the money on an inline, try it, I’d think it would work ok.
Originally posted by spikius
[B]I swapped my pump out for an inline high volume one. Make sure it really is your pump first, try jumpering the connections to the pump that are under the back seat directly to the battery (use a fuse or breaker with the jumper wires just in case), and see if the pump turns on. On mine, I thought that my pump was bad, but it turned out to be a loose ground in the engine compartment keeping the pump from starting.
As for doing the swap, it’s not too hard. You will have to drain your tank, either pump it out or undo the drain bolt on the bottom of it and catch the gas in a large container. I found I couldn’t get a pump hose to get down into the tank because of one of the bends in the fill neck, so I had to drain it. Be VERY careful draining it though, since gas is explosive . To drop the tank, you’ll need to unscrew that plate on the back seat that the wiring connector is connected to, then feed the wiring connector through the hole. Then under the car you’ll have to disconnect all the hoses for the tank (an assortment of different shaped pliers will greatly aid in this task, the most useful of the ones I used was a set of extended bent head needlenose that are roughly 12" long) The hardest hose I had to disconnect was the fill neck hose. Be careful not to tear or break it because it’s a custom molded piece that you’ll need to order from acura if you break it, and I recall it was around 26 bucks. Once the hoses are off, just undo the two straps holding the tank on (on a side note, you might want to replace the straps or at least the T bolts, since they’re probably rusted, and if you can get the nuts back on, you’ll probably not be able to get them off without cutting later on if you need to drop the tank ever again). Once the straps are off, the tank should just fall right out (might want to use a jack to support it while undoing the straps), then on the top of the tank, there is a plate with a ring of nuts around it, just undo the nuts, and the pump assmebly should come out. Once you get the assembly out it’s pretty straightforward to remove it. Then just reverse the removal procedure to put it back. [/B]
. To drop the tank, you’ll need to unscrew that plate on the back seat that the wiring connector is connected to, then feed the wiring connector through the hole. Then under the car you’ll have to disconnect all the hoses for the tank (an assortment of different shaped pliers will greatly aid in this task, the most useful of the ones I used was a set of extended bent head needlenose that are roughly 12" long) The hardest hose I had to disconnect was the fill neck hose. Be careful not to tear or break it because it’s a custom molded piece that you’ll need to order from acura if you break it, and I recall it was around 26 bucks. Once the hoses are off, just undo the two straps holding the tank on (on a side note, you might want to replace the straps or at least the T bolts, since they’re probably rusted, and if you can get the nuts back on, you’ll probably not be able to get them off without cutting later on if you need to drop the tank ever again). Once the straps are off, the tank should just fall right out (might want to use a jack to support it while undoing the straps), then on the top of the tank, there is a plate with a ring of nuts around it, just undo the nuts, and the pump assmebly should come out. Once you get the assembly out it’s pretty straightforward to remove it. Then just reverse the removal procedure to put it back.
. To drop the tank, you’ll need to unscrew that plate on the back seat that the wiring connector is connected to, then feed the wiring connector through the hole. Then under the car you’ll have to disconnect all the hoses for the tank (an assortment of different shaped pliers will greatly aid in this task, the most useful of the ones I used was a set of extended bent head needlenose that are roughly 12" long) The hardest hose I had to disconnect was the fill neck hose. Be careful not to tear or break it because it’s a custom molded piece that you’ll need to order from acura if you break it, and I recall it was around 26 bucks. Once the hoses are off, just undo the two straps holding the tank on (on a side note, you might want to replace the straps or at least the T bolts, since they’re probably rusted, and if you can get the nuts back on, you’ll probably not be able to get them off without cutting later on if you need to drop the tank ever again). Once the straps are off, the tank should just fall right out (might want to use a jack to support it while undoing the straps), then on the top of the tank, there is a plate with a ring of nuts around it, just undo the nuts, and the pump assmebly should come out. Once you get the assembly out it’s pretty straightforward to remove it. Then just reverse the removal procedure to put it back. [/B]