Sitting at a red light and the car suddenly starts to hunt for idle, i give it gas, then it died. Now it cranks and cranks but will not kick. I’m positive this is fuel related cause of how it died. The relay is good, fuel filter is less than 10k old. When i tried restarting after it died i was smelling gas and it was trying, now i smell nothing. So next leads me to fuel pump. Took off the cover and it looks like its never been replaced. I tired testing the sending unit, but I’m not sure if I am doing it right…this is the info i can’t find in a search.
I test the actual plug on top of the pump right? Turned my volt meter to 20 on the side that says DCV. Turned the key to on and the max volts I get is 6.48…that seems wrong…is it? Am I testing wrong? Yes I also grounded it in different places and still get 6.48.
Also…since ive owned the car…I have NEVER heard the fuel pump buzz…and I don’t now even putting my ear right to it. And yes I get the click on key position 2.
I’m obviously trying to avoid spending $200 on the pump and want to make sure I’m testing right. Please please please help. Thank you!!
sounds like a pumpp budddy tryy push starting the car and see what happens that will till u from there… but you should here the fuel pump prime on key position 2 …and you should be getting 12volts…have you checked for spark??
I replaced the filter just for the fuck of it. There is still pressure in the system even after sitting and me cranking it cause it depressurized when taking the fuel cap off. After I replaced the filter and tried to start it…fuel was leaking out the top of the bolt cause I didn’t tighten it enough…
So if there IS pressure…does that mean the pump IS WORKING? And is good? Or can it still be bad?
Is it possible for the pump to prime or “buzz” and it still not pump correctly? I think I heard it do it once (sounded like a tv turning on briefly) but then not again.
Am I using the volt meter correctly as stated above? What am I doing wrong to only get 6.48 volts? Car was running perfectly for months until this happened, and I have been running her low on gas lately.
At this point I’m sure it’s the pump, just wanting anyone’s opinion who’s reading this thinking “that sounds exactly like what happened to me.”
If there was enough pressure to reach the filter, id be inclined to think that the motor would at least sputter and want to start.
You could always try spraying starter fluid into the throttlebody… if it starts, then dies, you aren’t getting adequate fuel. If it doesn’t fire up at all, you’re not getting spark.
Its odd that you’re not seeing 12V at the pump though.
When it first died at the light…it did sputtered and tried to start when i turned they key, i also could smell gas. It acted exactly like i had just run out of gas, so I filled a can and tried to start again and just cranking, no attempting to start.
So then I would…spray starting fluid in as someone else starts it? Or spray some in, then start it myself? I have stayed away from doing that so far with cars, so that’s why I ask.
What about the resistor box? It controls the injectors right? If fuel is making it to the filter then wouldn’t injectors be next in line? Or something like that…I don’t know anymore.
Injectors/Resistor box very well could be a problem… but try the starting fluid first.
As you said, disconnect the intake and spray some into the throttlebody while someone cranks it over. Don’t spray a TON in there, just enough to see if it tries to start. Maybe 3 seconds of cranking/spraying? That would be enough to ignite if you are getting spark. If it sputters or tries to start, you’re getting spark and have a fuel delivery problem.
Well that’s what I am going to try then, I went and pulled a resistor box out of a junk yard car that looks in better condition than mine. Can’t hurt I guess.
When the sun goes down I will test spark so I can really see it, then we will see what’s next.
I pulled the cap off the distributor and my coil is cracked across the top of it…which I hate to say has been since I’ve had it for 3 years. So maybe it finally crapped.
Something that I dont understand is if the car is cranking over…how can it still not be getting spark? Is that just mean the coil is not doing its job to get the car to kick?
Tested spark by pulling a plug, inserting it in the boot, held it with plyers, and had someone turn it over to see if it arched off a bolt in the engine bay…no spark.
So from here…I pulled my cap and rotor and both look new.
also, check to see that the timing belt hasn’t broke. this would cause a no spark as well. if you’ve already got the distributor cap off, try cranking the motor and see if the rotor turns. if the cap is still on, you can remove your oil filler cap, have someone crank it, and see if the valvetrain is moving
^^haha. i doubt it’s the case though. seeing as how it died, then “wanted to start”. but you never know, sometimes when teeth get sheared off the belt, before complete failure, it’ll do the same. easy enough to check anyways.
and don’t worry about the 6v to the pump. upon research, i’ve found that the current for the main relay/fuel pump circuit actually goes through a resistor when ignition is in the run position. 12v is only received on start up to initially energize the relay, then when the key is dropped back to run position, current passes through the circuit with the resistor to keep the relay armature closed. since it takes less current to keep it closed than it does to close it. pretty cool shit.
here’s a great site on the function of the mfr: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/index.html
Replaced the coil, and she starts! For now at least, seems like there is always a new no start issue. I’m now convinced that I’m a pro that them. Haha.
That was a great read, needs to be stickied somewhere.
Welfare and I make a good trouble-shooting team… I’ve changed my mind, you can still hang around brotha… Just get another G2 and you’ll be back on my good side
^^hahaha. who knows. maybe one day. they’re great cars from all aspects. regardless, i’ll get another something or other from the pinnacle of import engineering-the late 80’s/early 90’s.
