im about to have a fully built motor with the exception of cams and cam gears. ive heard stories of peoples cars not starting because the stock ecu doesnt know what the hell is going on and keeps the car from starting. how bad would the performance of my engine be if i kept it on the stock ls ecu?
It would run, but not perfectly. Running a built motor on a stock ecu is somewhat defeating the idea of modding your engine. Changing the airflow and compression of a motor will change the needs of fuel at any given rpm. So it can run lean, which will detonate your motor over time. The stock ecu will start your car, but its not the best plan to stick with it.
Give more details of exactly what is done to your motor and we can give a more accurate guesstimate.
for reference:
b18a1 block bored to 81.5mm
eagle h beam rods
je pistons part # 149222 http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SRP/Honda-Acura/b18a1-b1.aspx
brian crower valves, springs and retainers
skunk2 intake manifold bored to 68mm
blackworks 68mm tb
megan headers
ported & polished head
thats all i can think of for stuff that would be relevant…
im looking into an obd1 conversion. i have a chipped p28 that i would like to know if i can “program” to work with the motor…
Yes the P28 can run an LS motor if it has been chipped and you load/burn the appropriate map.
sweet… thats the wall im at now… getting the “appropriate map”… you think you can help me out?
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?207434-computer-to-ecu
[QUOTE=DA_all_day;2199703]sweet… thats the wall im at now… getting the “appropriate map”… you think you can help me out?
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?207434-computer-to-ecu[/QUOTE]
a tune that works for your b18a1 block bored to 81.5mm
eagle h beam rods
je pistons
brian crower valves, springs and retainers
skunk2 intake manifold bored to 68mm
blackworks 68mm tb
megan headers
ported & polished head motor
may not work for another guys b18a1 block bored to 81.5mm
eagle h beam rods
je pistons
brian crower valves, springs and retainers
skunk2 intake manifold bored to 68mm
blackworks 68mm tb
megan headers
ported & polished head motor.
take it to a dyno, spend the money to have it tuned with a proper wideband on the dyno, save yourself from building another motor because the tune that worked for one guy may not work for you.
OEMs build and map motors with a fault tolerance, they pad everything by like 10% to be on the safe side. when youre building a motor with much tighter clearances and higher pressures/ratios than OEM, even throwing a tune on that worked for your car at another sea level could hurt it. your motor is no longer the “will run no matter what” honda motor that the car came with, to a point
i used to live more south than i do and i have family out midwest, my last turbo car would start to run extremely rich as i headed north to the point that it would drown the car in fuel and stall it at idle. i used to have a tune that i would have to load up as i got to about kansas when the humidity started to dissipate. if i forgot to load up my southern tune on the way home, the car would lean out. (which really made no sense to me, as the less humid and cold the air is the more oxygen dense it is. im positive it was something with the tune, as i dont know the first fucking thing about tuning motors and paid someone local to do it)
moral of that story: pay a real tuner to tune your real motor, itll pay off in the end (not that anyone online isnt a REAL tuner, its just that they arent sitting in your car at the dyno, if you see what im sayin)
thanks. my last resort was taking it to a dyno shop because of the outrageous cost some shops charge. but if i dont get it tuned properly and something messes up and i have to spend more to get it fixed than it would of cost me to just get it tuned then ill feel like crap. im going to look into some good dyno shops around in my area that can possibly help me out…
Don’t let OMG scare you from tuning your car yourself. Although I have to admit getting a good experienced tuner to tune your car is probably the safest route to get your car up and running at a good level quickly, I can see that you have the desire to do your own tuning. With alot of research and a full and in-depth understanding of tuning techniques and how a motor functions you can achieve excellent results by tuning yourself.
There is a misconception that a dyno is required to maximize your power and reliability, this is FALSE. In fact sometimes experienced tuners rush through their tuning sessions without fully testing out a tune simply because of the expense of dyno time. A dyno is just a tool used by tuners to optimize their tunes in a short period of time. You can achieve very close (even better) results by taking your time and tuning your car slowly over a long period of time adjusting by little increments. The key to good tuning is thorough testing!
It’s a steep learning curve tuning yourself, but if your willing to put in the effort to fully understand what you are doing, it can pay off. Even the best tuners had to start from somewhere!
Time after time people build these setups and do NOTHING for tuning and just expect it to run. I really don’t get the logic here. Spend the money and get someone to tune the car right, it’ll save you in the end.
Granted a dyno is not required but is a hell of a lot safer for the car and the tuner while adjusting parameters. Street tuning is a last resort IMO, being stationary on a dyno is the best and safest way!