So i have right now Ground Control F450 R550. Agx shock for a 91 civic. DIY top hats for the front. And ES bushing kit. All new and not installed. Was going to do it all over this nice three day weekand.
But my question whats a good sway size for my set up? Was thinking of getting the ST kit for the DA. I was also thinking about the type r rear? Modding anything will not be aproblem. I’m doing cnc work as will as manual machining.
The car use will be autocrossing more than DD!
ASR makes a very nice hollow 32mm adjustable sway bar, and has ALOT of tuning ability. Edik spephanyan in ITA H4 has a nice set-up of it posted in HT. I’m running the eibach rear bar, but there aren’t any adjustments on it. Also the ASR bar is $490, but is very well made. But given your hands on skills, you may be best off creating an adjustable rear bar from a torsion spring suspension, and start cutting and welding from there.
Also, the 550 rear rate is very stiff, and you’ll easily lift the inside rear coupled with most aftermarket rear bars. IMO, I would slightly lower the rear spring rate and tune the lift throttle oversteer with the rear bar, because adjustments can be made faster between runs at autoX events.
Also, considering your H22 hanging infront of the front axles, the car will be more conducive to lifting the inside rear while braking and turning, thus making rear bar tuning crucial.
In terms of what else there is to do with the suspension, I would look into some 13x9 or 13x8 wheels, and hoosiers or khumos to run the events. Assuming you’ll be running in SM class (if not EM) given your H22, r-comps are required to keep up.
Also, you may have noticed, there are seams on the stock DA chassis that have not been entirely welded together. In Honda’s attempt to save time and money, they only spot welded the sheet-metal chassis together. (Such as many sections of the B-pillar, and between the side rails of the chassis, and the door opening.) These are areas which would benefit from a good sanding and a nice even stringer bead. (I’m willing to bet that finishing-up the OEM chassis welding, would increase chassis ridgidity, more than a stock chassis with front and rear upper strut tower bars would.)
I hope this helps, and happy cornering!
Sweet thanx.
I dont have the h22 nomore. :bawl: I sold it all and got a stock rs. With a complete type r motor waiting for me to put in. when i cut the frame to make the h22 tranny fit i started having nightmares and sold it before i put way to much into it just so i can bend the frame like crazy.
I will look into this “creating an adjustable rear bar from a torsion spring suspension”.
hmm time to do some more homework