I have the B&M edge short shifter w/ the B&M bushings and at certain rpm’s I get a really annoying buzzing. It’s to the point where I have to rest my hand on the shifter constantly to get rid of the buzzing. The heat shield is gone, so I know it’s not hitting that, and the bottom of the shifter isn’t hitting the exhaust. I thought I came across some stuff in the past where guys were able to cure this annoying noise, but my search only turned up a post that I made about this same thing several months ago. Has anyone found a remedy since then?
My shifter makes that nise to, but I would check the bushings again to make sure they are in correctly.
Re: Getting rid of the buzzing coming from short shifter
Originally posted by clemsonteg
I have the B&M edge short shifter w/ the B&M bushings and at certain rpm’s I get a really annoying buzzing. It’s to the point where I have to rest my hand on the shifter constantly to get rid of the buzzing. The heat shield is gone, so I know it’s not hitting that, and the bottom of the shifter isn’t hitting the exhaust. I thought I came across some stuff in the past where guys were able to cure this annoying noise, but my search only turned up a post that I made about this same thing several months ago. Has anyone found a remedy since then?
Hey Bro - I have that EXACT problem. No heat shield, and I have confirmed that its not touching the exhaust.
This won’t make you feel any better, but I’ve had G2GURU try and fix this problem for me, but he was not able to solve the buzzing… yet. I’m pretty sure that if anyone figures it out, Dan will! 
What shift nob are you running? All metal? Mine is a Skunk2 knockoff of the ITR knob… its super heavy, so I’m wondering if that’s contributing. I’ll let you know when Dan figures mine out! 
yes, the bushings are in correctly… i’m positive of it. I’ve been switching back and forth btwn two different shift knobs lately. The first is a knob that I made on a lathe out of aluminum. It’s a teardrop shape like the ITR knob. It’s a pretty solid and heavy knob, about the same weight as the stock knob. The other knob is just the stock knob. When I use the aluminum knob the buzzing is much louder. For some reason it amplifies the buzzing and it sounds higher pitched… somewhat like a tuning fork. It resonates more. When the stock knob is on it tends to dampen the buzzing. Maybe it’s because of the material used to make it (the plastic and rubber absorb the vibrations maybe). So, as you can guess, I’m using the stock knob only because it makes the buzzing bearable… but I’d really like to use the aluminum one because it looks so much better.
I thought someone said something once about removing the counterweight on the shift linkage where it attaches to the bottom of the shifter. Can anyone confirm this?
Someone has to have a solution.
i dunno anyone thas ever had problems with it… mine does get hot cuz theres no heat shield… but das about it
Originally posted by pleather
i dunno anyone thas ever had problems with it… mine does get hot cuz theres no heat shield… but das about it
pleather, yours doesn’t have an annoying buzzing sound around a certain rpm range? Do you have shifter bushings along with the short shifter, or just the shifter?
I know exactly what it is…try taking the nut off the bolt that runs through the shifter. Put some lock tight on the threads then tighten it back up. If it is still happening, It is most likely the counter balence on the shift linkage…you can cut that off, and there should be no more buzzing. HTH
Jeff
Originally posted by mosier
[B]I know exactly what it is…try taking the nut off the bolt that runs through the shifter. Put some lock tight on the threads then tighten it back up. If it is still happening, It is most likely the counter balence on the shift linkage…you can cut that off, and there should be no more buzzing. HTH
Jeff [/B]
You’ve got me thinking with the lock tite idea. I’m wondering how that would solve the problem, but I’m willing to try anything to get rid of it. What part of the linkage is actually the counterbalance? Is it considered to be everything after the point where the shifter is bolted to the linkage? Thanks in advance.
As far as the with the lock tite, sometimes when you back a bolt off a few to many times or some of the threads get flattened, the bolt will tighten, but after a few shifts it will loosen back up. So, I went and bought a new nut and bolt and some medium strength lock tite. Once I did that my shifter stopped rattling. If you look at the linkage, I cut off just about everything below where the bolt hole is. So it looks like the otherside (hope that makes sense). It now looks like a box that the shifter bolts into and nothing hanging below it. (Sorry it’s 3 am and I’m getting slowj
Let me know if there is something you don’t understand. Good Luck,
Jeff
The buzzing noise you’re hearing…
is attributed to the metal bearing used in the pivot, where it attaches to the shift linkage. At certain rpms, the resonance of the engine will rattle the entire shift linkage and cause the pivot point to shake. But since they are attached as one, and there is a little play with the bearing, you get that “buzzing” sound. I have a C’s short throw and it too makes that noise, especially at WOT. I’ve found if you put enough grease in the bearing, it allievates the sound somewhat. If you’ve already eliminated the theory that the counterweight is not hitting the exhaust or the heat shield, there you’re just gonna have to live with it.
HTH
-Jeff C.
is your b&m loose when it is in gear??? mine is, but i havent gotten the chance to check to see if the bolts are loose
I just had an idea about this so let me know what you guys think… could it be that it’s the bolt that runs through the bottom of the shifter that attaches it to the shift linkage?? If there’s any clearance btwn the hole in the shifter and the bolt that runs through it then it would vibrate some. Maybe this theory doesn’t make sense though because there isn’t any difference with the stock shifter vs. a short shifter in the way that it attaches to the shift linkage. It still uses that same bolt that runs through the same hole in the shifter. Any thoughts??
same problem. has anyone tried using some plumbers tape or lock tight on the shift knob. it seems like the part were the shift knob screws into increases in width toward the bottom of the threads. so when the shifter vibrates from the engine it makes the top of the shift knob buzz. BTW has anyone tried e-mailing b&m about this?
clemsonteg, that’s the bolt I was referring to with using lock tite.
Originally posted by mosier
clemsonteg, that’s the bolt I was referring to with using lock tite.
yeah, I thought so. I was thinking that if the hole in the shifter that this bolt slides through is too large in diameter then there will be some clearance btwn it and the outer diameter of the bolt. This “slop” might be causing the buzzing. I’m going to investigate this and see. I’m also going to email b&m and see what they suggest.
what type of shifter do you have? If its a B&M or DC shifter then they should come with little rubber O-rings (washers). This will also help to get rid of vibration. Just put some lock tite on the bolt tighten it down really snug, test to see if it’s difficult to move the shifter. If it’s not then let it sit for a little bit. And you should be all set.
ok, just got off the phone with b&m. I hate it when people treat me like an idiot… the guy starts in with “well you know that aftermarket shifters are going to have this noise because the bushings are stiffer”. I told him that I understand this, but they must have a solution. He basically talked to me like I was 5 yrs old or something. I mean I just graduated with a master’s in mech. engineering and do know a few things about cars. Anyway, he said they don’t have any sure-fire way to fix the problem but said a few people have tried things that might work in our case. The first he said was that some people put a rubber donut around the shifter which helps to absorb the vibration. Makes sense I guess and worth a try. He also said that some people add weights similar to wheel weights to the bottom of the shifter… I guess the idea being that it will vibrate less if it’s heavier. Just thought I’d share that info with everyone. I’m going to go have a look at that bolt.