Ive been doing alot of research on autox set ups for my DA. Heres what my set up is going to be.
Koni yellows/ground control 400f 500r
st 19mm rear sway
falken azenis tires
Now im wondering what my car would handle like. I hear alot of people saying higher spring rate in the back induces oversteer. But I really cant picture a fwd car oversteering can someone explain
Have you been to an autox yet?
-nino
There are going to be way too many other factors involved here to really give you any sort of decent answer. A fwd can definitely oversteer.
The setup you listed could understeer, oversteer or be quite neutral, just depends on all the other factors:
I think the important question is Nino’s…
I ment the way a rwd oversteers.
yesive autox heres my other thread
That doesn’t really make any sense. Oversteer and understeer is independent of drivewheels. A FWD car can oversteer and a RWD car can understeer…
In general, FWD, RWD, and AWD cars will respond differently to throttle input mid corner but again, the severity of that is dependent a lot on setup.
X2…take a nissan s13 for example. shit understeers more then my teg haha.
i think he wants to know if he can powerslide and drift in his DA:angel:
wow dude can we say body roll? u definately need to put about $1500 into suspension and youll be good to go. rlca’s definately some kinda of adjustable shock not the blues <shit, h&r springs are good, tie bars, strut tower bars, anything you can do to stiffen up the chasis will help. i ran a crx autocross and learned all this the hard way. here was my set up:
tokico illuminas with neuspeed race springs from an integra
custom made front and rear strut tower bars and c pillar bar
tanabe sustec under brace
custom 4 point roll cage
ksport lower control arms
ingalls camber kit front and rear
neuspeed sway bars
skunk 2 lower arm bar
just a little something to consider. deffinately worth the money for an autocross set up.
[QUOTE=90lst;1940265]wow dude can we say body roll? u definately need to put about $1500 into suspension and youll be good to go. rlca’s definately some kinda of adjustable shock not the blues <shit, h&r springs are good, tie bars, strut tower bars, anything you can do to stiffen up the chasis will help. i ran a crx autocross and learned all this the hard way. here was my set up:
tokico illuminas with neuspeed race springs from an integra
custom made front and rear strut tower bars and c pillar bar
tanabe sustec under brace
custom 4 point roll cage
ksport lower control arms
ingalls camber kit front and rear
neuspeed sway bars
skunk 2 lower arm bar
just a little something to consider. deffinately worth the money for an autocross set up.[/QUOTE]
To me that seems like a very strange suggestion. I think the setup he posted is a great starting point. Only thing I would FOR SURE add to that list is all new bushings and an alignment (which I assumed was part of the deal anyway). The spring rates he mentioned are about avg and he can easily switch front to back to see what sort of setup he likes. Getting lowering springs would be a worse idea because he can’t easily change spring rates when he gets to the point that he wants to play around with them.
All of those little “tie” bars and such are just there to finish things off each doesn’t do much on it’s own. He should do the big stuff first. And there’s no need for a camber kit will only help if you’re using it to tune your camber. He’s going to want a good deal of negative camber, he isn’t going to want to correct for it, just tune it to what works best.
But above all, work on driving. Hell, drive it stock for quite some time and you’ll learn a lot.
[QUOTE=90lst;1940265]wow dude can we say body roll? u definately need to put about $1500 into suspension and youll be good to go. rlca’s definately some kinda of adjustable shock not the blues <shit, h&r springs are good, tie bars, strut tower bars, anything you can do to stiffen up the chasis will help. i ran a crx autocross and learned all this the hard way. here was my set up:
tokico illuminas with neuspeed race springs from an integra
custom made front and rear strut tower bars and c pillar bar
tanabe sustec under brace
custom 4 point roll cage
ksport lower control arms
ingalls camber kit front and rear
neuspeed sway bars
skunk 2 lower arm bar
just a little something to consider. deffinately worth the money for an autocross set up.[/QUOTE]
ahahahhahaha, that is amazing! look at all that stuff you mentioned for him to get to improve on his driving. to be honest seat time is really what he needs, like colin said. shit drive it stock for awhile like suggested, it will let him learn his car and polish his driving techniques. then start modifing the car little by little, seeing how the car changes with each different modification.
While I’m usually on the “drive it stock for awhile” bandwagon, I’ll say two things. Stock ride height sucks (I’m a ricer at heart), and 20 year old shocks and springs suck. There’s nothing wrong with wanting to replace all that crap from the get go, and you might as well get something that’ll last you awhile if you’re gonna drop the coin.
That being said, I’ll agree with others that the effect of tie bars and bracing and whatever other little pieces are being recommended are going to be lost on a rookie, and spending money on those is just going to nickel and dime your budget to death.
FWD cars can oversteer just the same as RWD cars – the only real differences are weight distribution and how to correct it once it starts happening. For a rookie, I’d say keep the stiffer springs in the front until you learn how and when the back end starts to swing around, and what to do to correct it. It’s not uncommon for guys to put massive rear sway bars on and spin out the first time they enter a corner too hot and pull off the throttle. I’m running stiffer front springs and a 19mm rear sway bar, and it’s just enough that I can start to control the back end… I figure I’ve probably got another year or so on this setup before I’m gonna be wanting more oversteer.
just save up for good tires :rockon: