Screw it, lets see where this goes. Post pics!
MantisX
Thank you all for your input.
The turbo shop caled me today, they said it would cost me $475 to rebuild that turbo. They sounded like they were trying to rip me off, I told them to send the thing back. So, this project is on hold for now. I’ll look around for another turbo and also do more research on this.
Stay tuned!
I’m back!
I got a new turbogharger, well new to me!
It’s a Garrett TB0356.:horny: This one’s got the correct T3 flange without the crush gasket ring. Compressor A/R 42, Turbine A/R 48. It came off of 89’ Saab 2.0. Zero shaft play, spins freely, feels realy good and snug, for $48 it was a steal!!!:excite:
I also did some more research on Turbo Edit and created my own basemap. I’m still set on running the PLX set-up, but I at least know a little more about TE to run it if I need to.
That’s it for now, the turbo side of the project is still on hold. I decided to finish the suspension first.
Stay tuned…
More about PLX!
Finally found what I was lookin for. Here’s some in-depth info on how a PLX wideband controller works.
http://www.plxdevices.com/AppNotes/PLX%20Critical%20Response%20Technology.pdf
Yes, I’m still gonna run it. 
that’s fine that you run it. matter fact that’s good you found more info on it. as far as what it does, it only will give you a reading and it will not adjust AFR for you. go back and read it yourself. The Honda ECU, and many other car manufacture ECU’s will not allow a piggy back wideband CONTROLLER to adjust fuel. the most this CONTROLLER will give you is a CEL, just like your OEM narrowband. it’s great to have this and monitor AFR so I say go for it, and if I was wrong in anything I said, I will take it back but please let us know how it goes.
O.P.: Although some of the posts on here have seemed to have been doggin’ you a little bit about some of your part selections and what not, for the most part these guys are just trying to keep you from wasting money and blowing up your motor. Smokeintegra is correct about the PLX just measuring the AFR’s, and not controlling them. The device that controls the AFR’s based on the o2’s measurements is the ECU. If you don’t want to believe anyone here, at least call PLX and ask them. I assure you that you won’t regret making the call. One other thing that you really need to take into consideration is the ignition timing. I believe that a good starting point for calculating ignition timing for boost versus NA is about -.75 degrees per psi of boost that you plan to run. So at even 8 psi, your ignition timing will be off by at least 6 degrees. That is more than enough to blow a motor due to detonation, ESPECIALLY under boost. Changing your fuel is not enough. Any time you add a component like a turbo into the mix, you need to add its supporting components as well. This would include at the least: Wideband o2 and Chipped ECU w/ tuning software (or Chipped ECU tuned by reputable tuner for your application). If you plan on doing more than 5-8 psi, then you’re at least looking at injectors, fuel pump, ecu and tuning, and larger exhaust. I’m not trying to rain on your parade, just trying to get you to see that you are making a mistake if you think that the turbo and wideband o2 is all you need. Do it right the first time.
I’m still doing a lot of research on this project. Yeah, I thought about ignition, MSD makes a boost dependent ignition controll module, it may be out of my price range. I haven’t looked too deep into it. This project is still on hold, probably till the begining of next year. I’m concentrating on suspension first, then power, then body work. Somewhere in there I may squeeze in an LSD.
As far as exhaust, I have 2.5" cat back on there now. Gonna get a Magnaflow cat, and run 2.5" downpipe, that should do the trick.
Right now the set up looks like DSM 450s, Walbro 255, basemap from Xenocron and PLX wideband.
I’m still playing with Turbo Edit, so I may end up running it.
BTW: My friend’s boosted BMW is still running strong on PLX!
lol I think u should listen to ninezeroteg. and everyone else for that matter. I personally see nothing wrong with a lot of your parts setup cause u are tryin to cheap out and u are on a budget. To do it right yeah you would need to spend more but that is not what u want to do and I understand that. I’ve seen people boost with a lot less than what everyone states that u definently need. Go to homemadeturbo.com. That will help u a lot.
And there is a reason why everyone is bashing your fuel controlling option. They are not bashing it really just saying it’s not going to do what u are thinking it will. If u buy that and don’t touch the ecu it will not be a good idea. I think a street tune with chipped ecu or turboedit will do, but that is the LEAST I would do. I think if u really want to enjoy it u should spend the 250-300 for the tune and the 100 to get it chipped. That shouldn’t be too far out of your budget especially if u know some people. U will be happy that it is somewhat reliable. Everyone here just knows that turbo hondas will make u cuss and scream everyday just as much as we love them.lol In your case it will happen for sure this way. And a porche ecu is pretty much already chipped and u can go to the dealer for adjustments. correct me if im wrong. So don’t think your honda ecu is anything like a bmw ecu. I know ur teg doesn’t ride like a beamer so dont compare it to one. Other than that good luck with your build.
Ive been boosted for 2 years and ive never sweared at my baby because she was done right the first time. The road this guy is about to go down though, im sure he will invent new swear words.
MantisX
Hey, even if I do blow it up; gives me an excuse to build a better motor.
B18As are a dime a dosen anyway.
I’ll keep you posted.
hope it all goes well!