Been all over the internet for this issue. Let me preface by saying electric is NOT my suit, I am doing what I can for my baby though.
Was having issues starting my '91 Integra so Tuesday I replaced the main fuel relay. Right after he started up beautifully BUT when I turned on the headlights, the RPMs upped, my dash lights went out, my gear shifter clicked and the temp and fuel gauge skyrocketed and bottomed out respectfully. I get alteration in the RPM and dash lights when I hit the brake as well or use the wipers.
I switched back to the old MFR and still had the same electrical issue. I took out the ECU and the TCU both of which looked pristine on the inside and were not throwing codes. (reset I am sure) I have visually inspected all the wires I could and can see nothing. All fuses tested fine and ground wires secure and tight. (I only have a circuit light to use BTW so testing is new to me and honestly I have no idea what specifically to look for.)
With in the past two years this guy has had a new head gasket, water pump, timing belt, battery, battery cable, starter, dist, wires, plugs, all three engine belts and fuel filter. I do need to replace/repair the ICU but has never been a nuisance before and I have never experienced these issues before replacing the MFR.
This is my daily driver and I am at my wits end. Tried on another forum site for assistance and was told it seemed like a grounding issue. This is a video I posted when the issue first occurred (so excuse my overreaction). http://youtu.be/UF-78oPR25s
Like I said, I don’t get near electrical but I can’t avoid it at this time and I think my baby boy is worth it… Walk me through what I should be looking for? doing? testing?
I don’t think its a grounding issue, unless u literally knocked a ground connection loose near where u were working, but you can go with that first, if you like.
First thing, you need a (cheap, ~~$10-20) multimeter from any autopart store, or sears, or online, one that measures resistance (ohms) and voltage (volts). A friend who sits in the driver seat and does stuff while you probe around the battery and ground points also makes things a lot easier/faster. Long test leads ($2-5), or extra clip leads, also usually required.
Then measure across the battery terminals with everything turned off (key out of ignition), and again with engine idling, and write down the two voltages for later comparison. This will also determine relative health of the battery and the alternator.
Basically, you want to measure what happens when the lights are turned on etc., and any difference in voltage between the frame of the car and the ground post on the battery when the trouble happens. IF you can reproduce it while the car is stationary, you have the easier diagnosed kind of problem (… because strapping your friends to the fender while you are driving just attracts unwanted attention, )
IF the frame of the car, or any ground wire, is even more than a small fraction of one Volt above the battery ground terminal… voila (or violins, not sure which) u have a bad ground.
On the other hand, if the battery voltage goes way down, or if any direct 12V wire or connection goes down below let’s say 10.5V, then you have another kind of issue. (Exception to this rule is when cranking engine on a starter… starter is being used)
Possible, but no likely. Assuming the ignition was turned off. If the ignition was on, and the car was beeping/chiming when you were messing with the wires, that could be worse, and might take a bit of time to find.
I am not intimately familiar with this particular car yet, but normally if you short something while the battery is connected, the corresponding fuse blows. If the short is bad enough to fry a wire, you will get a nice spark at the point of contact, and a smell under the dash or under the hood when the wire insulation boils off with the fried wire. Not likely to miss THAT! A blown fuse makes no sound tho.
So in other words, the fuse will generally protect the wiring harness, and the reason for disconnecting the battery is to protect the fuse and the part you are installing. If you install a part like that, damage is most likely if you forget to turn off the ignition. Less likely but possible if the ignition is off, but battery is connected.
The main ground point near the battery is exposed to the elements, and the cable is exposed copper strand, so you may as well check that first in case it broke or something like that. If it is in place, don’t take it off to clean it, unless it is replaced with some liberal amount of dielectric grease, removing an externally rusty connection virtually assures slow corrosion to come, and Saint Louis probably uses salt on the roads.
Ok. This makes me feel better. I have checked ALL the fuses and nothing was shot. The keys weren’t even in the ignition at the time. I had the negative battery cable replaced within the last 7 months and the battery was tested then. The wire off of the negative clamp is just a capped wire, it’s not attached to anything, is this odd? None of my mechanics have said anything…
Right now if I turn the key to acc and turn on the lights, I get all the chaos that was happening but also, my lights are SUPER dim. I am going to go have the alternator tested.
[QUOTE=MWaldrup;2320579] The wire off of the negative clamp is just a capped wire, it’s not attached to anything, is this odd? None of my mechanics have said anything…[/QUOTE]Yes very odd… what??? I may not be reading you correctly, but the braided wire from the negative battery terminal is not attached to ANY-THING/bracket/bolt whatever??? And you had the cable replaced by a real mechanic?
Most likely the negative battery cable was attached when replaced, and perhaps it broke off, or detached. Look at the “capped” end to see if there are remains of a bolt, or at least the eyelet hanging at the end. Or a broken piece of some kind. If the lug broke off clean with the end of the cable, it may be hard to see.
I thought it was odd… It’s just a capped wire hanging off of the battery. The job of the starter was not done by my regular mechanic. I have a big feeling also that I didn’t really need my starter replaced, that was when my corroded cable was replaced, only my relay but that’s done at anyrate. I will look into it. Currently cleaning and reinstalling the IACV because I am running out of things to look at for this issue. Battery and alternator tested out perfect.
If there is really NO OTHER connection between the negative battery terminal and the frame, you should see to this first. Electricity will sometimes find its own way to ground, and it may fry other things in your car… seriously, each time you turn the key in the ignition, it would be like playing Russian Roulette with your car’s electrical system. I can hardly believe it runs like this!
So it had been about 6 months since this battery cable was replaced and I never thought about that wire not being grounded. I never had any issues at all other than I felt the performance and fuel efficiency was declining. I went out and got some wire, attached an eyelet, attached to that wire and grounded it to the chassis.
Guess who doesn’t have a silly electric grounding issue on her car anymore…THIS CHICK!!! Thank you so very much!!!
