ok…ive got a b18c1 head off a 95 gsr… port/polish, aebs intake manifold, power 68mm throttlebody, golden eagle feul rail and feul pressure reg.
i also have my 92 da with intake exhaust, and a stage 1 exedy w/7.5 lb flywheel, and about $500.
hate to be blunt, but now wut for the lsvtec?
what can i do so that itll be reliable? i dont want somethin to let loose at 7500rpm and mash up the head or anything.
arp head studs, and vtec conversion kit is a must but im a little unclear where to go from there. i dont have a whole lot of fundage so the cheaper the better.
well it sounds like your on the right path for what you need. i would buy a eagle ls-vtec kit or you can make your own. oh you will need a b series vtec timming belt too. ok well i have heard lots of things i would recamend changing out the oil pump to a gsr or type r oil pump that helps with moving more oil for the vtec head. as for something flying off at 7500 you should be fine. if you start getting into block stuff it might be a bit expensive pistions, rods, having everything balanced.
hope this helps some
The oil pumps are the same. The only difference is one washer where the relief valve is located. Removing the washer gets you Type R oil pressure. Assuming that your bottom end is in good condition (you could be wasting money if it isn’t) you will also need a new head gasket. Mr Gasket sells an LSVTEC gasket. You have to get some machine work done on the head. The dowels are on the other side of the block on a non vtec block. So you machine out a couple of head bolt hole on the other side to fit the non vtec block. You also have to plug the VTEC oil feed hole in the VTEC head. It has to be tapped and a plug inserted. A machine shop can do all that for you. You will have to tell them what you want. Hopefully you know of or can find a shop that knows VTECs. You should also check to ensure that both the head and block surfaces are completely flat. If you want to bump up the compression a bit you could have some metal shaved off the block and head. Any more than 13 thousanths will mean your valve timing will be off so keep that in mind. You may have to degree the cams if you take off too much metal. Its not a big deal though and the compression on the non vtec engines is low. You gain some compression by using the VTEC head because it has a smaller combustion chamber 41.6cc versus 45 cc for the non vtec. You should go to http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php and read their LSVTEC article and check out the compression ratio calculator. When you buy the new timing belt, I suggest buying a new water pump too, a P72 model. It has a larger sprocket and more teeth and works with the VTEC timing belt also a P72 part number. You may have to change your PS pump depending on what you have now. The upper bracket on the VTEC head is different than the non vtec model. If you can find a 92-93 GSR bracket, a P61 model, you can probably use the old pump. If you go with a P72 bracket, the G2 pump won’t work, which means you have to go with a G3 model and it has a serpentine belt versus a V belt and a different high pressure hose connection. There goes your crank pulley because the PS slot on the G2 pulley is a V belt. So you have to go with a G3 pulley and a new serpentine belt. You can probably get the pump and pulley at an auto wrecker but you should buy a new belt. You may have to buy a rad hose. The upper one should work but the bottom one might not. Also the fuel line from the filter to the fuel rail may not fit depending on the type of fuel rail.
Lastly, all this information is available if you would just search the site before asking the questions. Good luck. $500 doesn’t go very far especially if someone else is doing your work.
well as for the bottom end…im not sure what im dealing with there. the compression came out fine but im burning oil, im kinda leaning twards bad valve seals. as for the power steering,i plan on taking it out.im more worried about wiring vtec solenoid and knock sensor to the ecu and i dont know what ecu to use.
An LSVTEC is unlike any other VTEC engine so it makes sense to get a socketed ECU so that you can tune your engine and modify the ECU program. That can be done with a VTEC ECU that you have chipped or you can have a non VTEC ECU modified to be a VTEC ECU and have the socketed chip as well. I used a PR4 ECU which is a 92-93 Non VTEC ECU. I paid to have it converted from auto to manual, converted from non VTEC to VTEC and had two chips programmed along with installing the socket. Cost was $150. Its cheaper if you already have a VTEC ECU and more expensive if you buy the ECU already chipped. Check out Matthew Hurlbut [firstname.lastname@example.org] Send him an email and explain what you have. Tell him you are from the G2ic forum. He will give you a quote and will also recommend a program for your application. There are other chippers out there but Matt is pretty good. He does this for a living and his work is flawless. He uses a software application called “Crome” to do his programming. There are several options available in terms of programming. For example, if you don’t have a “knock board” in your ECU you won’t be able to use a knock sensor. So he will disable that so you don’t get a code. Ask him to tell you what features can be turned off. Things like the ELD, which is not on the G2 integra can be disabled.
As for your oil consumption, it would be smart to take care of the bottom end if you can afford it. The LSVTEC will put more load on your bottom end and may cause premature failure to an engine that is not up to taking the additional load. There goes your reliability.
So far what ive read, everyone is giving you good advice, but everyone is missing a few key points to make it reliable. Get a good set of rod bearings!!! ACL RACE bearings or KING RACE bearings. Trust me, i learned the hard way. The LS engine is not made to spin past 7k. The long stroke past 7k is murder on rodbearings. and you can replace them without pulling your motor. But if you are pulling your motor, tear it down, get race mains and rodbearings, and do a light hone job, and install new pistonrings. and if you want it even safer, get a block girdle off of a gsr. With everything i mentioned, you should be able to spin to 8000 without any problems. Hope my 2 cents helps. Oh almost forgot, since yours is a 92, its already obd1, so try to locate a p28 ecu, and you should only have to add the vtec solinoid wire, vtec oil pressure wire, and i think a knock sensor.
OldGuy <=- you are filled with great info and very helpful.
Sorry to disagree with DA9stalker but the P28 program won’t run the LSVTEC very well. There is nothing wrong with using the P28 ECU as a baseline but you do need to have it chipped so that you can customize the program for your engine. The P28 ECU is programmed for a SOHC 1.5 L Civic engine. You will have a 1.8 L engine with different fuel and timing needs on both high and low cam.
ok…obd1 vtec ecu i know is a must, i just dont know which one to work with. i planned on having it tuned after everything was done but the issue is that im gonna have to deal with the knock sensor situation. is there any way that i can just get it to the tuning shop without using that specific ecu? im not lookin to get there at 110mph in vtec, im just lookin to get there with all the mechanical nonsense out of the way.
i know that this is a silly question considering that theres probably a write up or 2 about it but what is piston removal comprised of? for i lack a engine stand. i dont have a whole lot of time of drive way use becuase im going have to borrow my friends.
so the shopping list leaves me at>:
fullrace lsvtec conversion(only cause its cheaper:)
obd1 vtec ecu
some sort of tuning or a chip of some sort
possibly pistons/rings/rod bearings
let me know if im forgetting anything… keep it coming
You will need to have your chosen tuneable ECU installed when you go to the tuning shop otherwise it can’t be tuned. The tuning shop needs a baseline to work with. Also you already have a recommendation for an ECU from one of our members. Use a P28 and get it chipped for an LSVTEC.
Excuse me for being blunt, but I don’t think you have sufficient knowledge to undertake this project. You don’t appear to have a basic understanding of the workings of a computer controlled engine. My advice is to do a bunch of reading or take your car and your $500 to a shop and see what they can do for $500. It won’t be much. Read and save more money.