Hey guys,
I thought I would make a collage, for you guys to come along with me on my journey with this swap. We will start with the beginning of the journey.
INTRO: I bought this 
1991 Acura Integra GS, from a friend who had it since we were 16. We are now 28. He left the Honda scene, to become a 04-05 GTO owner. I owned the car for about a year, then it spun a rod bearing on the way to work. I had other modes of transportation, so I let the teg sit in my driveway. I soon found out my wife was pregnant with our first child, so I knew I should probably sell the car, in favor of a sedan. (was eyeing 1st gen CRV’s and DB8’s)
I went all the way to Chicago to pick up this `97 b18c1. 
Took out the b18a1. 
Chassis has 113,xxx miles on it. The car went through 2 transmissions and its original block due to hydrolocking
TIP! If you are not comfortable with all the hoses/wiring take pictures! yes this isn’t a b18a1 replacement swap, but a lot of the things connect to the same areas! 
As I took the axles off, found out one was literally broke at the end. 
Separated the trans from the b18a1, to find a broken tab on the throw-out bearing. 
BONUS! My son had been born and was almost grown out of his baby car seat, so we got him his infant car-seat. 
Between parts I needed to order, I also salvaged plenty of parts from the b18a1 to use on the b18c1. 
As well as the OBD0 to OBD1 ECU jumper harness and OBD1 subharness. BONUS DOGE 
Connecting the subharness and checking TDC! 
Had to buy a higher torque rating impact. My pneumatic one wouldn’t get the crank bolt off.
My brother and friend helped me get the trans connected. Even with a load leveler, it was a bitch lining up the trans dowel pins and main shaft. 
GSR in mounts! 
Ended up bending the shift linkage and breaking it at the end 
1 Step forward 2 steps back. Friend went to bolt trans in and used a longer bolt without checking a put a whole in the trans, so had to take trans out. Good thing I did because I found a bunch of metal shavings and…an intact 10mm socket! 
The plug at the end of the trans housing was seized, so I had to drill through it, attach a 3/8" drive to the square like hole I made, to get it off. 
TIP! use Styrofoam to store your bolts in order. 
The new header won’t fit! need to notch 
Ended up notching it more than this! 
Between this time and my next available picture, we had the trans and engine back together into the car and everything hooked up. The car would not start! sounded real rough too, while cranking. Took the engine apart and found a bad headgasket (oil mixed with coolant, heavy oil deposits on valves and pistons, and eventually a bad valve.)
Also found the cylinder walls were like glass! 
Head was taken off! 
Before pistons 
Razor blade to pistons 
Clean piston 
At this point I was balls into this engine. What a shitty seller. At this point I honed the cylinder walls 
Took the rods and pistons out, cleaned them, clocked and installed new piston rings! 
TIP! Use something like styrofoam to keep your block free from debris! 
Some more goodies, between work, kids, family life, dogs, hobbies, and owning a house
Had a neighbor complain to the city about my da9 being on jack stands in my driveway (my DB1 stays in the garage!)
DB1 original miles! Driven it 7,000 miles in about 12 years 
So I got collector plates, that bypass my neighbor complaining! 
Figured I would replace the valve seals, with how much sludge was on the pistons and I already had the head of. Also wanted to clean the valves! I ended up forgetting to put the retainers on first, so I bought another set of valves seals.
Bought this valve spring compressor tool for ~$38 
WARNING!!! I bought this kit and it came with TOO SHORT OF BOLTS! I bolted down both bolts and went to take the first valve out and the tool shot out of the head cam cap threads and hit me in the face! hurt like a bitch! I contacted the company and bitched at them about the dangers of what they had done, luckily I didn’t seriously maim myself. I went to a local hardware store and got 1/2inch longer bolts.
DIRTY! 
Found a belt valve after I lapped the valves! The previous owner did not tell me the motor came with standard size flat faced valves! These were not stamped or etched in any way, so it was a bitch to find out which company made them. They ended up being standard size, flat faced, black nitride Supertech valves. 
Pic of one valve with seal and the other without! 
Used assembly lube all over the rockers and cams when I stored them in saran wrap 
By the time I had the head together again, I had broken 4 cam cap bolts. I ordered a bunch from Honda as I had broken so many and had stretched a few more. My problem was I forgot the smaller bolts were a different torque than the larger ones on the cam caps. Also there were a bunch of weak bolts. Also at this time I had put the engine together, dropped it in. and went to torque down the head. I ended up pulling the threads out of the block on one of the holes. Had to buy a helicoil kit yay I made sure the timing was dead on, flushed all the coolant, refilled new coolant. Did an oil change, in case any coolant got into the oil. All hoses and plugs were connected.
Tried to get the motor started and it wouldn’t start. Cranked it over maybe 30 different times. Started diagnosing. fuel to rail, fuel to plug, spark, spark to plugs, timing, plugs. It rained a couple days and I had other priorities. Eventually I went out there after talking to a friend about ignition and remembered watching YouTube or reading the here or Honda-tech about timing being 180 degree’s off. So I took off the distributor, turned the gear upside down (or right side up) bolted it on and the motor started right up. Even though the motor starts, it idle’s stupidly high, so I will get to cleaning the IACV as soon as I can.
Money breakdown of things purchased while working on this swap
da9 - $1,800
shitty b18c1 - $460
TD68 distributor - $80
OBD1 P72 ECU - $50
b18c1 head gasket - $70
b18c1 valve seals x2 - $73
oil x2 - $58
Coolant x2 - $28
Supertech valves x2 - $37
ECU jumper harness & sub-harness - $130
Valve spring tool - $38
Spare Trans casing - $60
Energy Suspension shift linkage bushing - $23
Dewalt 1/2in 20v cordless impact - $300
Tein coilovers - $500
JDP carbon fiber lip - $200
MISC - $???
*I bought a bunch of beer, brake/carb cleaner and other chemicals for this build. I also had a lot of spare and BNIB backup parts and chemicals I used on this build.
~$4,000
There you have it people. I have a ton more pictures, but my phone was dying, so I could not upload them all, as I was typing this. Also the pictures are not in chronological order. In some, you see clean parts, then dirty parts lol. Thanks for viewing this and coming along with me on this journey.