No, not the toes on your feet, the toe on the teg! The rear left wheel on my car still has negative toe (which I guess would be toed-out) when it’s adjusted as far in as it will go in the adjustment slot. Has anyone ever had problems with this? I was thinking about taking a dremel or something and elongating the adjustment hole so that it can be adjusted in more. The teg is lowered but would that affect the toe? I searched and didn’t find anyone that had a problem like this. Maybe the shops alignment machine is off? Should I elongate the hole, have another shop try to align it, or is there something else that would be causing this problem?
Any time the camber is changed the toe changes as well. If there is plenty of room to elongate the hole that is what I would do.
BTW how much are you lowered and do you have a camber kit installed?
HTH,
-Josh
As far as I know the rear wheels are set (ie. can’t change camber, toe, caster) as stock. At stock height, there is supposed to be negative toe (wheels pointing inwards) at the rears, and zero (0) toe at the front. If you want to change the toe at the front, you have to fiddle with the tie-rods.
Regards,
Oz
Oz: Camber and Caster in the rear aren’t adjustable, but the Toe is… I’m pretty sure of this.
Yes, toe is adjustable in the rear. I still have some “toe-in” problems :(/
Ive got my toe set at an 1/8 inch toe in. Love it, love it! Toe out is terrible for driving at high speeds, almost scary even.
I’m hardly lowered at all which is why i don’t understand how no one has had this problem before. I’m on kyb gr2s and eibach pros, and i used the washer trick to fix the camber. the alignment check showed that the rear camber is good and is almost exactly the same on both sides. Answer is correct, the caster and camber is not adjustable from the factory but the rear toe is adjustable because there is an adjustment slot at the front of the trailing arm as you can see in this diagram.
It doesn’t show where the adjustment slot is though so I may try to get a picture of what it looks like under the car or it’s pretty easy to find if you look under your car, that way you guys have an idea what I’m talking about.
While doing some more searching, I found that member Leftcorner had this problem too with aligning 92LS’s teg. I sent him a quick e-mail so hopefully the address was right and he can let me know how he solved the problem. In the meantime, I found a kit with an adjustable arm that replaces the one that the adjusting bolt is attached too. It’s like 100 bucks though so I’d rather fix it an easier way as long as it won’t screw anything up. If anyone else has other suggestions or theories as to what the problem could be I would really appreciate the help. Oh, another question, does negative toe mean that the wheel is toed-in or toed-out? The measurements from the shop showed that the toe is negative which the shop said means pointing out. If they got it mixed up I’m going to be pretty angry because that means they were trying to adjust it the wrong way. Can someone clarify this please?
Originally posted by n2tegs2
The measurements from the shop showed that the toe is negative which the shop said means pointing out. If they got it mixed up I’m going to be pretty angry because that means they were trying to adjust it the wrong way. Can someone clarify this please?
Neg. toe in the rear means the tire is pointing outward. The correct spec for the rear is +.08 inches, which means it’ll point inward slightly. I still have not come up with a fix for this yet, her car is lowered about 2.75" in the rear, which is about the same as mine and I didn’t have any trouble. I’m gonna try dremeling out the groove slightly and see what happens, I only need +.48" of adjustment so I’m not overly worried. I’ll keep you posted.
If your toe adjustment is outside the factory available range your trailing arm is bent or your compensator arm is bent. Replace it! Increasing the adjustment range is a temporary fix not recommended. Most likely your left rear was heavily curbed during the cars life and this bent the rear suspension. It may not appear bent to the naked eye but compare the pieces to a good one and you should see differences.
Alright, my dad and I took a look at the rear suspension again to try and compare the left and right side and it’s practically impossible to tell if anything on the left side is bent or not. Would I have to take the whole rear trailing arm off and then find another one to compare it to in order to see if it’s bent? Also, is it possible that the rear trailing arm bushing could be causing the problem? We used one of those bars for a jack and tried pulling on the rear trailing arm to see how much the bushing moves and the left side seems to move around a lot more than the right. The rear trailing arm pivots on that bushing when you adjust the toe, so our reasoning is that since the bushing is partly torn and kind of wedged out a little, this might be the problem. Think about it, instead of pivoting on the bushing, the bushing itself would be moving because it’s torn and therefore taking away from the change in angle at the rear wheel. Does that make sense? Anyone think that the bushing would make that big of a difference(it’s only .74 degrees off anyway)? I think it’s either the bushing or something that’s bent, but as far as I know it was never hit on the left rear and I have no way of measuring whther it’s bent or not anyway.
Yes, it could be the bushing causing the problem. I assumed it was in good shape when I made the comment about the trailing arm being bent. The technician who did your alignment should have indicated a problem with your bushing and never done the alignment until it was corrected.
DB2-R81, you were correct. Somehow the trailing arm is bent. After comparing the trailing arms on each side some more, we noticed that the left trailing arm is slightly out of shape. In fact, you can even see subtle hammer dents and discoloration were it looks like someone tried to hammer it back into shape. Is it possible to pound it back into shape or should I begin the quest for a left rear trailing arm? What are the chances of finding a good one in a junkyard? I would just lengthen the alignment slot, but now that i know the trailing arm’s bent, it will definitely be putting more strain on the already worn bushing. So do I replace the bushing, elongate the hole, or try to find another trailing arm? What would be the consequences of just elongating the hole to compensate for the bent trailing arm?
Best to replace it, a recycled part should be relatively easy to find and the cost should be reasonable as new parts dealer replacements are not to expensive. I believe retail around $160.00 new from most Acura dealers.
A new trailing Arm is $400 up here in Canada! Both TA bushing had to be replaced on my car, I went for Prothane bushings and saved about 500 bucks… ($300 for Prothane bushings instead of $400 for EACH trailing arm)
HTH!
$400??? I think Crown Acura in Wpg told me something like $270 a few months ago… I was looking for the trailing arm bushing and he told me they don’t sell those seperately. Luckily I already knew that there were aftermarket bushings available so I didn’t waste all that money.
Uh… anyways… point is $400 sounds suuuuper-high… I hope that was just an error on behalf of the parts person!
i once got my toe stuck in the spokes of my sisters bike
With Pro-Kits you shouldn’t have to worry about camber. As long as you can set the toe, you should be fine–no camber kit needed.