head bolts self-welded to engine block?? GURU's PLEASE READ!!!

is this possible??? i’m in the process of trying to get the head off of my block, due to a snapped timing belt(bent valves). i removed all the head bolts except for 2(the 2 closest to where the intake cam gear would be) with no problems at all. then i get to these 2 and have tried EVERYTHING possible to get these out(14mm socket using a breaker bar, multiple different 14mm sockets, even an impact wrench) so far i went through 3 craftsman sockets(2 stripped, 1 cracked), 2 no name sockets(both cracked), 1 shattered socket wrench, and i even cracked the socket for the impact wrench, which i thought was impossible to do. hell, i’m even starting to strip the heads of the bolts!!! and yes, i AM turning the wrench the correct way - the same way i was turning the others…righty-tighty, lefty-loosy. i’m stumped. is there no hope for my engine??? believe me, i would love to drop in a new engine, but my wallet says that it has to be my VERY, VERY last resort. i know these bolts are put in there with 60sumthin’ lbs of torque, but i was using a hell of a lot more then that to try to get them to budge. this has been the 4th day now just trying to remove these 2 head bolts. where do i go from here???

Try a longer breaker bar.

It will work.

i’m using a 36" breaker bar already. i can move the bolts just fine with that, just not these two. even with using 2 people(1 putting weight on top of the wrench to keep it down on the bolt, and 1 turning the wrench with the breaker bar) the socket still slips off of the bolt. thats how i started stripping it. i don’t know WTF i’m gonna do.:mad: :argh: :confused:

have you tried craftsman’s new nut/screw removal tools? Also, if those were snap-on sockets, they probably wouldn’t have stripped. :confused:

no i have’nt tried those. i’ll look for them at sears or something. what do i have to lose except for more money, right???

You need to get some heat on those bolts. A oxy-acetylene would be the best, but whatever you’ve got is worth a try. Since you are going to have good heat transfer from the bolt to the block/head, you have to work (fast) in stages.

I would get the bolt as hot as I can in under a minute and try to get it out. If you fail, hit it with some heat again, keep going. After a little while (when the head starts getting hot), you can stop, it again gonna get any easier.

You can let the whole thing cool overnight and give it one more go. If nothing budges you might concider drilling it out (or giving it to a shop to do the same).

A couple hammer blows straight down on the bolt can also help things along.

Good luck.

I dont suppose that you actually read up or asked anyone how to remove the head studs, did you??

First off, you may have warped your head by taking all but those two bolts out. You are supposed to turn each bolt 1/3 of a turn (in reverse torque sequence) until they are all completely loose to avoid uneven pressure on the head thus causing it to warp…

Anyway, as far as getting those out… If you have tried everything you have mentioned before and you still cant do it then I suggest you take it to a machine shop before you damage the head and/or block by trying to get those bolts out.
Heat is an option to get them out, but you have to be careful when getting that area of the head hot.

Good luck, and make sure to check for warpage on the deck surface of the block and the head.

Later,
BR

First off, you may have warped your head by taking all but those two bolts out. You are supposed to turn each bolt 1/3 of a turn (in reverse torque sequence) until they are all completely loose to avoid uneven pressure on the head thus causing it to warp…
:werd:

Maybe it was caused by the way you took off the head…now that only 2 bolts are holding it down. Warpage created excessive force? Really don’t know, but i have removed many heads and if you do the sequence correct, it doesn’t take much effort.

Where exactly are the position of these last 2 bolts? Perhaps you can try puttin another 2 bolts on the opposite side of them, maybe it can release some tension? Just my suggestion, never had the problem before.:confused:

One last thing, the stock head bolts are 6-points? If so, don’t use any 12-points sockets.

Ken

The numbers below correspond to the TIGHTENING SEQUENCE of the head studs. 0 (zero) is 10.
The torque sequence is a TWO STEP PROCEDURE. The first step is 22 lbs/ft. and the second (final) step is 61 lbs/ft.

8 6 2 4 0
9 3 1 5 7

The below numbers correspond to the LOOSENING SEQUENCE of the head studs at 1/3 turn each until they are ALL completely loose. Again, 0 (zero) is 10.

1 7 9 5 3
4 6 0 8 2

This should make complete sense to everyone here. If it doenst make sense to anyone for any reason just let me know what needs clarifying and I will explain further.

Later,
BR

:idea:Maybe he should reinstall the other bolts and tighten them to about 60ft/lbs and go though the seq…cause I think Riceman hit it on the head…no pun man:rofl:
This is to add to BR’s goodness (just pretty pictures). Further I’d like to add that reinstall the bolts in the same holes they came out of and don’t forget the to moly lube em boys!:smiley:

:up:
:danger: BTW axxording to the service manual the head has a .008" tolerance till its junk:uhoh:

i have a “close to brand new” head going on it after i get my old head off. the new head is a b18b with just under 30k miles on it. so to tell you the truth, i could care less if i damage the head at all.

BR - thanks for the sequence charts, i do understand them. i just wish somebody would have told me that info before i started the job. i would have been done by now.

i’ll try some of the ideas you guys have mentioned and i’ll keep you guys informed of the progress. i already tried heating the bolts with a heat gun. the sh*t started smoking!!! i also put the other bolts back in when i did it. - nothing happened.

if theres any other info i may need to know, after i get these bolts out, in order to get the head off the block i’d appreciate if you guys could tell me. just a little guidance for safe measures and less headaches.

THANKS GUYS!!!

ouch sorry to hear man. youre attempting a head swap w/o a manual? please dont go any further until you download the helms from my sig.

update us if you dont mind, id like to hear how you finally get them out.

oh, another suggestion, try using a wire fed welder. not only can you weld on another bolt, but the extreme heat is very isolated so you can just try dabbing some weld on at the highest setting first. you can rent one from home depot for 30bucks a day.