ok, my friend was telling me about some shop that will heat my springs to drop the car for about 30 bucks… I know its bad but its also temporaily, I plan on getting tockio shocks and h&r springs, I get them in december for my b-day, so do you guys think it would be all bad if I did it until then? I mean its not that far away and is temporily…
If you don’t mind your kidneys turning into hamburger meat
:burnout:
you just said it yourself…it’s not that far away…just wait until you get them. Save that $30 for some gas or something more useful. I ran around for almost a yr before I lowered my car.
When you heat your springs you will never be able to get an even drop…which will look stupid, it’ll look even worse when ppl see you bouncing all over the road, don’t try and take your car up to any sort of high speed cause you’ll probably lose control and crash. Heating your springs also makes the metel in them weaker which in turn could cause one or more of the coils in them to break.
In other words DON’T DO IT!!
if you REALLY must lower your car…look in the for sale section and find someone selling some used lowering springs…cost you no more then $50-$70 for an old set of springs…maybe even less…hell I got my coilovers for $80 shipped!
Or try E-bay sometimes you can find some cheap stuff on there. I wouldn’t recomend them for the long term but till december it’ll be fine and a lot better then heating your springs
heating is the worst thing you can do…
dood… one word… GHETTTTTO!!! don;t do it save yerself some money and pain. get REAL springs… don;t go cheap…
Originally posted by Integ5150
dood… one word… GHETTTTTO!!! don;t do it save yerself some money and pain. get REAL springs… don;t go cheap…
:werd:
My buddy did that to his g3, he did it very good so its an even drop. It is kinda rough when yah hit bumps n stuff. Id do it temporarily, why not, it corners better.
regardless of whether it works, its not worth the labor. even with an impact wrench. just get real springs for jeebus sakes. i got my eibachs used for 80 and see another set for the same price in the recycler. neuspeed sportlines usually run about 50
heating the springs will totaly change the spring rates, you are better off cutting them.
Originally posted by Sir rev alot
heating the springs will totaly change the spring rates, you are better off cutting them.
actually cutting them will change the spring rate also. actually he is better off NOT cutting his springs or heating them. telling him to cut his springs is some bad advice in my opinion. not only that but if you cut the spring, it won’t sit properly in the shock seat and will move around on bumps.
I forgot who this came from … might have been taun>>>
Cutting springs to change ride height is a completely valid technique, not some “riceboy” wannabe poser thing - IF a number of things are kept in mind:
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Not all spring types can be cut. If the spring is flat-ground, pigtailed, or otherwise located in the suspension by its shape, then you can’t cut it.
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The spring should force the suspension into full droop. If the spring rattles in its mount at full droop, it is too short and must be replaced.
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Always use an abrasive cut saw or a hacksaw to cut springs NEVER EVER EVER EVER use a torch on springs! They are very carefully heat-treated, and the torch will ruin them.
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Go slow! Small sections of coil removal can make big changes in ride
height. It is better to make 6 successive “too high” cuts than one big “too low” cut. -
Take the car for a spin after every cut - not only will this reveal how you’re doing on the ride quality and livability scale, it takes a little suspension cycling for the car to settle to its natural ride height - just dropping the jack and measuring will give a falsely high reading.
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Be aware that cutting coils increases spring rate. This is to a certain extent) a good thing, as you want more rate to help keep the car from bottoming, but be aware that the ride quality will change towards the harsher side.
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Bumpstops are not cosmetic! They are SPRINGS! They allow the OEM to use a fairly soft spring for ride, but stiffen the effective spring rate when the car rolls. Note that most OEM bumpstops these days are tapered (and so are progressive rate) You may have to shorten them somewhat, but under no circumstances should they be removed.
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Err on the side of being conservative - being slammed in the weeds may look cool, but the real world is full of driveways, curbs, underground parking ramps, railway tracks, etc and the sound of your airdam or exhaust system scraping on the ground is not at all enjoyable. Note that Touring Cars et. al. run only on racetracks that are exceptionally smooth. Typically, a 1" drop is the maximum for real-world applications.
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You ABSOLUTELY MUST get an alignment after any lowering. Lowering typically increases negative camber and toe. The camber won’t hurt you, but excessive toe EATS TIRES, typically chewing the inside edge of the tire down to cord in a matter of weeks.