My 92 has a fully built b18a1 , I have a 170 degree thermostat, buddyclub fan switch, ron davis radiator, spal fan and shroud, I also have the fan wired direct but for some reason its heating up to like 235 and it heats up mostly under acelleration. I dont get it. Can anyone help?
Also I have new waterpump
First off, if you have your fans wired directly (I’m assuming you mean on all the time or wired to a switch) then your aftermarket fan switch is useless.
The engine will run at the temp it wants to run, lowering the temp at which the thermostat opens and the fans go on does not necessarily mean that the engine will run cooler. If the cooling system / engine combo you’re running wants to run at 235deg then it doesn’t matter if the thermostat opens and fans turn on at 100 deg, 170 deg, or 200 deg, the engine will run at 235.
Are you sure your temp gauge is accurate? Using a stock thermostat, stock fan switch, Spoon radiator cap and Fluidyne radiator my b17a runs at 195 deg most of the time and then heads up to 205-215 when idling. At the track this past weekend I don’t think I saw temps over 205 deg (ambient temp of about 80deg).
What temp does the engine run at when cruising on the freeway? If it’s significantly lower then it would seem to me that the issue is with the radiator working much better with more air flowing thru it.
Well when I hit the gas it heats up quite a bit. at idle and a steady speed it stays under 200. The gauge is a autometer cobalt digital water temp gauge, I can hear it like overheating/bubbling in my overflow. I did just change the thermostat, could it be air in the system?
How can you hear it bubbling over if you’re accelerating?
Not very likely, but with an electric gauge it’s always a good idea to consider the fact that if wires get crossed or there’s some interference that the gauge reading could be affected. (seeing a direct correlation between rpm and gauge reading could possibly point to some strange issue such as that)
I’m not quite sure what to think, I’ve been having some strange issues with my system as well. It wouldn’t hurt to burp the cooling system again, and check or replace your radiator cap.
just a thought, but maybe the pump is causing cavitation. this could be due to the thermostat setting. i don’t know what the stock t-stat is set at, but if it’s different, it could be contributing to this problem. definitely something i’d look into anyways
yeah, really sounds like cavitation.
or as stated, a short to voltage.
maybe break out the temperature gun
Would you mind explaining a little more your rationale behind that? Not saying it’s wrong, I just don’t understand how that’d happen, but then again I don’t understand how cavitation works exactly.
lol. funny thing is i just read it on the back pages of my most recent issue of honda tuning this morning.
something about creating lower than optimal pressure on the inlet side of the WP by using a lower temp t-stat. the optimal pressure will aid in creating a funnel-like movement of the fluid, rather than scattering it about the housing.
i’m no engineer, but it could probably be offset by the pulley size, if you were that hell bent on changing the temp, and therefore pressure of the t-stat and coolant.
give it a read. it’s pretty enlightening
[QUOTE=welfare;2170531]lol. funny thing is i just read it on the back pages of my most recent issue of honda tuning this morning.
something about creating lower than optimal pressure on the inlet side of the WP by using a lower temp t-stat. the optimal pressure will aid in creating a funnel-like movement of the fluid, rather than scattering it about the housing.
i’m no engineer, but it could probably be offset by the pulley size, if you were that hell bent on changing the temp, and therefore pressure of the t-stat and coolant.
give it a read. it’s pretty enlightening[/QUOTE]
eh, I don’t buy those mags unless my friends cars are in them…
I still don’t understand the why the thermostat would change anything related to the water pump. Either way the thermostat opens and closes, under some conditions it’s open, under others it’s closed. If the system is designed properly (as you would assume it is) then the water pump would not cause cavitation when the thermostat is closed or open. So changing the temp at which it opens shouldn’t matter. Of course that’s just my logic, not necessarily reality.
well, once in awhile the mag actually has some pretty interesting articles.
i think it has something to do with the fact that a change in temperature is a change in pressure. by changing the temperature, you change the pressure at which the coolant meets the impeller.
Hmm, that sort of makes sense, pressure is lower at lower temps. However, if the problem is cavitation at low pressure (and thus low temp) wouldn’t you be seeing cavitation immediately upon cold start, before the system is able to build any pressure? This would mean you’d have cavitation in the cooling system regardless of thermostat opening temp.
:shrug:
hmmm, you are right about that. we are missing something in this equation. something has to keep the pressure high enough at the inlet to inhibit cavitation.
don’t really know, but i’m definitely interested to find out
lol. yea i actually recalled the article incorrectly. it was a faulty rad cap that could cause cavitation, not a lower temp t-stat.
raises pressure on the inlet side of the water pump.
still worth looking into, IMO.
apparently when pumps cavitate, they do sometimes make noises like the one you’d described
So what do you guys suggest?
i’d probably confirm the problem first. use a temp gun, induce the condition, and see whether you are in fact overheating.
if it is, if you have another known good rad cap kickin around, or can borrow one, it’s worth a shot if it doesn’t cost anything
ok I will check.
Any smoke out the exhaust?
No
bad head gasket…
i know it may sound wieid but…i have some issues same as that before…every things the way it should be…new fans,2 rows rad,new water pump…still temp going up…specialy during acceliration…it was a nightmare…hahahahaha…the only problem was i had a bad headgasket…better check yours…
It was because the thermostat I replaced I didnt bleed the system after