I just installed a brand new OEM cap and rotor and now my car won’t start. Does anybody have any ideas of what my problem might be?
Sean
Ummmm, all that can really go wrong there is if you forgot to put your plug wires back on, but I doubt that is it…
If you could explain what it does I might be able to help you out a little more…
Ah, I also see that you are local, I hope you see you at some of the meets around here.
Later,
BR
BR, how do you make ur posts green? Do you type out the green code on each post, or do u have a default u can check off?
Originally posted by E-DA9
BR, how do you make ur posts green? Do you type out the green code on each post, or do u have a default u can check off?
Do you see that bar above the message box that says “color”?? I just pick my color and type it in the box that pops up. Sometimes I put the code in myself though…
Later,
BR
Ok…I feel like a dork now…thanx man.
Originally posted by E-DA9
Ok…I feel like a dork now…thanx man.
Well, from what I have heard… YOU ARE, hahahahahahahaha
So, all that computer programming hasnt paid off?? hehehe
Later,
BR
Make sure the cap is screwed on tight. If the rotor and the cap contact, no go.
The cap is on tight, the plug wires are all in the correct spot, i put the old parts back on and they don’t work either. I just took out the #1 plug and connected it to a ground instead, and tried to start to car to see if I’m getting any spark, which I’m not. What do you guys think I should try now. BTW, BR, I was that the meet at Southcenter and the HIN meet.
Sean
Sounds like you might have a coil/ignitor problem. You can take your coil out and get it tested. You cant test the ignitor though.
What exactly does your car do when you try to start it?? Does it just keep cranking??
Now that you mention it, I do remember you. I cant recall your face, but I remember your GSR.
Later,
BR
How would I cause a problem with the coil or ignitor by changing the cap and rotor? Is the coil something that has to be taken to an autopart store to have tested? When I try to start it, it just keeps cranking.
A friend of mine said that because once I got the cap off, I had to turn it over a little bit in order to access the screw on the rotor that this could have thrown the timing off. I told him that’s not possible, but is it? I dont’ know what to do know…
Sean
How would I cause a problem with the coil or ignitor by changing the cap and rotor?
Its not that by changing your cap and rotor would do that, it is more of a coincidence that it would happen that way.
A friend of mine said that because once I got the cap off, I had to turn it over a little bit in order to access the screw on the rotor
Nah, you dont need to crank it over to get access to that screw. All that you have to do is get a 19mm socket, extension, and ratchet and crank the engine over with the crank pulley…
You cant throw off your timing by doing that, but I have never tried that before, I have always used the pulley so I dont know if that could have damaged your coil or ignitor.
Any place that has a coil tester can test your coil so call around and see who does.
Later,
BR
If it is possible that I damaged the coil or ignitor by turning the engine over like I did, then wouldn’t you also damage it by doing a compression test? Does anybody have any idea how much an ignitor and coil cost? Are the parts that I should replace with oem, or would replacement parts from schuck’s be ok?
Sean
One more thing I thought of but I’m sure isnt’ the problem… Is there any fuse that I possibly could have blown doing this?
Sean
Originally posted by 93gsr
[B]One more thing I thought of but I’m sure isnt’ the problem… Is there any fuse that I possibly could have blown doing this?
Sean [/B]
You could check your starter solonoid fuse, that could be it.
As far as prices on that stuff, your looking at around $80-90 each from honda. You should never go with cheap coils or ignitors…
Later,
BR
I went to an autopart store and bought an ohm-meter. I tested both the ignitor and coil according to the directions in my chilton’s manual. As far as I was able to tell they are both still good. I guess I’m going to go down to the dealer and talk to them in the morning. Where is the starter solonoid fuse, and if it was blown wouldn’t that make my starter not work?
Thanks,
Sean
Where is the starter solonoid fuse, and if it was blown wouldn’t that make my starter not work?
It is located in the panel next to your left knee when your driving.
When the starter solonoid fuse goes out it just makes it to where the car tries to start by the solonoid doesnt engage the flywheel…
Later,
BR
Just to make sure… did you make sure that they are the correct parts? maybe they give you the wrong parts… try exchanging them before you start doing other things…
I’d remove and compare old/new parts… maybe you got the wrong parts… does your rotor screw on or slip on??
Are you sure you didn’t drop the old screw in the distributor???
The parts I bought were idetical to the old ones. I put the old ones back on for now cause I know for sure that they worked before I tried to change them. The problem now is I’m getting no spark. I replaced the ignitor and know for sure that the coil is fine. I have no idea what could be wrong now.
Sean
so you put the old ones back on and tried it with everything back to the original shape and no spark?