Help!, car won't rev pass 35k rpm,,

Well I have a obd0 b16 stock besides intake, when iam driving at times the car won’t let me rev pass the 3500 rpm once it does pass I accelerate the car but it feels like the car looses power like it hesitates to reach higher rpms. Feels like it jerks, then all of a sudden it will run fine, I let off the gas and get back on the gas at the problem is still there, Also I do have a check engine light.

I’ve talked to a couple of buddy’s and one says I need another distributor, another one says possibly clogged cat, iam no mechanic so idk, I need some help g2ic. Thanks

Pull the CEL code and go from there.

35,000! lol :wink:

Any time the Check Engine Light is on, you really should know WHY it is on. The car is telling you that there is a problem… you need to know what the problem is, and then we can help further diagnose the potential cause.

Driving with the CEL on, and not knowing the reason, is just ignorance…

Finding out what fault is present is fairly easy, though a bit more of a pain with OBD0. The ECU has a small LED light that will blink the fault code… so you have to peel back the carpet of the front passenger-floor to get at the ECU.

http://www.customcivics.com/articles/21/obd0_check_engine_light_cel_codes.html
That site explains how to check what you’re looking for. If you need more direction, just search google on how to check a honda obd0 cel.

I’m betting Throttle Position Sensor or like your friend said, something in the distributor giving itermittent spark: Ignition Coil, Cap/Rotor, etc. Being that these obd0 motors are nearing 20yrs old, it makes sense that the internals of the distributor could be going out, causing bad misfires.

Hopefully the fault code tells you something definitive.

Ok thanks unified112 , I did check for the cell codes how ever I don’t fully understand on how to read them, the led lights flashed two long blinks, followed by three short/fast blinks.

23 is knock sensor…

Long Blink = 10
Short Blink = 1

So yes, two long, and three short blinks = 23.

If you have an LS/GS/RS chassis, they never came wired for vtec from the factory.

Since the car has a B16 in it, wiring for the vtec system should have been routed to the ECU to control the componants of the vtec system. The Knock Sensor is one of those componants that should have been wired up.

If indeed it is wired up, it sounds like the sensor itself may be shot.

Yes I do have an ls and vtec is wired up, how would I go about knowing if there is a knock sensor?

this happened to me also, how ever mine threw a code 16 i believe and it was my injectors that were loose!! this happened on my b20b swap…so good luck hopefully that helped out.

Damn!!! Didnt know you drove a F1 car!!

if it giving you a knock sensor that means you have a ECU that came with a car that hade Vtec stock. what ECU do u have? what obd is the car and what obd is the ecu?