[help!] electrical questions!!

i was looking around in the fuse boxes and noticed this…

where would this hook up at?

and i also found out why my rear defrost didnt work… can anyone help me on this with some pix of proper wiring?

i wonder where this wire leads to, it doesnt look stock. LOL.

…no where!! lol

also, i just realized that my clock and dome lights dont work. and the clock always resets when i turn the car off. what could be the problem here? :frowning:

also, my cruise control doesnt work. the light in the dash turns on but it wont keep speed or accelerate or decelerate.

The red lead plugged into the fuse box, [free pin] was a lead for some aftermarket electrical device, [alarm, gauges amp control lead], the terminal it is plugged into is one of the “free pins” used for powering aftermarket electronics, not sure which free pin that is, but there will be at least one 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] a 12V+ 2nd ign., [hot in run] a 12V+ illumination, [hot when park/head lights are on] the illumination free pin can be used for light flash from an alarm.

Remove the red lead it is not needed.

I am not sure what you mean by " pix of proper wiring?"???

The red lead in engine bay was the power lead for an aftermarket amp, it was not properly run in the first place so you need to remove it also.

If the stock HU, [radio] is still in the car the previous owner probably added a sub, [and amp] to the stock system, the red lead in the engine bay was the amps power and the red lead in the under dash fuse box was the control, [turn on] lead for the amp.

Hint… follow the amps power lead to where the amp was mounted, [do not just pull the lead out] to see how the amp was mounted, if the previous owner drilled holes in the cars floor pan to mount the amp, repair the holes now to prevent rusting and to prevent moisture from getting into the car through the holes.

The clock is resetting because there is no 12V+ constant power, [hot at all times] check fuse 14 - 15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box, it is the courtesy lights fuse and memory fuse for the radio and probably the clocks memory also.

There are many reasons why the cruise control is not working, if the CC indicator light comes on when you turn CC on then it is not a blown fuse, [fuse 24 - 15A]
You are going to need a multimeter to do some testing at the “Cruise Control Unit” :hmm:94

[QUOTE=fcm;1967759]The red lead plugged into the fuse box, [free pin] was a lead for some aftermarket electrical device, [alarm, gauges amp control lead], the terminal it is plugged into is one of the “free pins” used for powering aftermarket electronics, not sure which free pin that is, but there will be at least one 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] a 12V+ 2nd ign., [hot in run] a 12V+ illumination, [hot when park/head lights are on] the illumination free pin can be used for light flash from an alarm.

Remove the red lead it is not needed.

I am not sure what you mean by " pix of proper wiring?"???

The red lead in engine bay was the power lead for an aftermarket amp, it was not properly run in the first place so you need to remove it also.

If the stock HU, [radio] is still in the car the previous owner probably added a sub, [and amp] to the stock system, the red lead in the engine bay was the amps power and the red lead in the under dash fuse box was the control, [turn on] lead for the amp.

Hint… follow the amps power lead to where the amp was mounted, [do not just pull the lead out] to see how the amp was mounted, if the previous owner drilled holes in the cars floor pan to mount the amp, repair the holes now to prevent rusting and to prevent moisture from getting into the car through the holes.

The clock is resetting because there is no 12V+ constant power, [hot at all times] check fuse 14 - 15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box, it is the courtesy lights fuse and memory fuse for the radio and probably the clocks memory also.

There are many reasons why the cruise control is not working, if the CC indicator light comes on when you turn CC on then it is not a blown fuse, [fuse 24 - 15A]
You are going to need a multimeter to do some testing at the “Cruise Control Unit” :hmm:94[/QUOTE]

the proper wiring pix i was wanting are for the fog fuse. there’s only one wire comgin from the fuse and i wanted to know when i repair it where it would lead to.

THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY!! im gunna get to work on it today and check it out. :rockon: also, the cig lighter isnt working. LOL. seems like the previous owner had a ball with this one. poop!

Sorry, still not sure what it is your asking about the fog lights.

The fog light fuse is fuse 19 -15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box, the lead running from it, [white/red] runs to the fog light relay then a red/black runs from the relay to the fog lights. :shrug:94

[QUOTE=fcm;1967976]Sorry, still not sure what it is your asking about the fog lights.

The fog light fuse is fuse 19 -15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box, the lead running from it, [white/red] runs to the fog light relay then a red/black runs from the relay to the fog lights. :shrug:94[/QUOTE]

sorry i mistook the 30a rear defrost in the pic for that plug with the yellow/green wire. i was wondering the deal of that plug if it only supposed to have one wire coming out of it or two. thanks and sorry for the confusion.

OIC, I believe it is only one lead, unplug it and see if there is a terminal in the empty spot.:dozing:94

any follow up on this?

i have the exact same problem

which problem would that be? i noticed my rear defrost dont work because one of the leads in the back was ripped out. i still dont know whats going on with my cruise control though. :frowning: