My 92 gsr stalled on the highway and wouldnt start. I noticed no voltage was going to the fuel pump and all signs pointed to the main relay. Well after diagnosing it, it turned out to be fuse 24 which is the black/yellow wire going to the main relay. Seems to run fine now…although I havent driven it anywhere since.
But for the better part of this road trip my battery light has been on. It is intermittent but usually stays on. I have an optima red top, and new remaned alternator. The voltage is fine when the car is off and when it is running (I even checked it while I was driving). I upgraded the battery to ground and engine to ground wires, but it didnt seem to do anything.
I’m wondering if the fuse blowing is linked to why my battery light is on.
I have around 300 miles to go to albuquerque, but there is pretty much nothing in between, so I would like to not break down.
The batt./alt. light comes on if you have a problem with the alt., find a batt./alt. shop and have them do a load check on the charging system, most places will do that for free.
The fuse blowing should have nothing to do with a charging problem, fuses blow because there is a short or the load exceeds the fuses rating, [do not replace with bigger fuse.
The black/yellow is the “trigger” for the injector relay and input power for the fuel pump relay.
Do you still have the blown fuse?
How does it look, is the filament blown apart “explosively”, [melted filament ends, black residue, splattered specks] or is it a nice clean break in the filament?
It is possible the fuse was defective.:whisper: 94
BTW, was the gas tank almost empty when the fuse went?
Thanks for the quick reply. I attached a photo of my fuse. The blurry spots on the plastic where the fuse able link is broken are slightly black and burned.
Yea, that’s blown up real good, there must have been a short.
Were you using the cruise control, also fuse 24, or A/C, Radiator Fan Control Module is on fuse 24, it also powers the Evap Purge Control Valve, Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve and the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Solenoid Valve (EGR], and is power for the voltage regulator.
It could be a problem with any of the above or their wiring.:stare: 94
Thanks guys for the replies. I replaced the fuse and made it home to albuquerque.
The battery light is still on, so Ill have to have it load tested.
Yes I was using cruise and A/c. I will still have to mess around with it, but have plenty of time now.
I should have mentioned this but I made a kill switch for my fuel pump…probably the wrong way (although all the connections were soldered and heatshrinked). I used a toggle switch in between my fuel pump 12v wire. Could a short in that have caused it.
It is possible that the kill switch or it’s leads had the short.
An effective fuel pump kill switch, the one I use, is to install the switch on the black ground lead to the PGM-FI Main Relay, it is the ground for the injector relays coil, it will shut down the injectors, a few sensors, power to the ECU/ECM and the fuel pump, it is a low current ground, no fuses to blow, and you can use a small 1A switch, easier to hide.94
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