I want to build my suspension on my da9 for circuit. I already have tokico illuminas with skunk 2 springs, but im wanting to do a full suspension build. Im new to g2ic, and new to the 2nd gen community. Does anyone have any specific parts that they prefer, or have seen increased lap times with? No specific budget, but i am more focused on getting a basis on where to start. Any help is appreciated!
you want to build your suspension for circuit so you bought skunk2 springs? kind of an oxymoron there…
look into koni and kyb. they both offer custom valving for whatever you need. if you are serious and not just bullshitting then off the shelf items will do you little good.
I would recommend Koni Yellows and Ground Control with custom spring rates and extended hats. Seems to be a very tried and true setup for DA’s. For strictly circuit racing you could run 12k/10k rates or even 14k/12k. If you are really serious, then the ones you have now will not get you very far. Welcome to the site.
One thing I would recommend is a bushing kit. It will help tremendously. As for suspension, I would recommend a full bodied system like Tein or F/Fs. Camber kits front and rear and a couple of strut bars will get you started pretty well. I am doing a complete overhaul on my DB2. You are welcome to check it out.
idk about skunk2 spring. but tokico illuminas are great, i would say they are par with koni yellows IMO.
Thank you for all your inputs, much appreciated! DA_All_Day, i purchased the car with the current suspension setup i listed and already had my mind set on getting rid of them. Also, ive ordered an enegry suspension poly bushing kit and am now looking into ground control. Once again, thank you all!
i would suggest skunk 2 struts and GC coilovers i got them on my car and thers hardly any body roll wihtout strut bars. i love the feel and i think i onnly have around 700 into those brand new
Definitely stick with the Koni yellows and GC springs…
I myself went with sk2 struts but have tein springs but will see how that is then reconsider
Sorry to psuedo thread jack, but I see the same spring/shock answers thrown out, all the time. Is there a way/combination to keep the ride quality and lower the car? Let’s just say I HATE my bouncy Skunk2’s.!!!
The lower you go the less functional your suspension will be. It’s a choice you have to make - you can’t have your cake and eat it too. Over the past few years I keep lowering the car a tad more thinking I can get away with it. Then I always raise it back up so I can have better ground clearance - then I realize it handles better higher up. I know it’s hard to come to terms with, but that’s just how it works.
Generally “bouncy” is not an indication of bad suspension components. People like to say that it’s cheap shocks or Chinese made knock off parts… But usually it’s more due to not enough suspension travel. Could be an issue with the shocks bottoming out, riding on bump stops or the actual suspension arms making contact somewhere.
[QUOTE=Colin;2315913]The lower you go the less functional your suspension will be. It’s a choice you have to make - you can’t have your cake and eat it too. Over the past few years I keep lowering the car a tad more thinking I can get away with it. Then I always raise it back up so I can have better ground clearance - then I realize it handles better higher up. I know it’s hard to come to terms with, but that’s just how it works.
Generally “bouncy” is not an indication of bad suspension components. People like to say that it’s cheap shocks or Chinese made knock off parts… But usually it’s more due to not enough suspension travel. Could be an issue with the shocks bottoming out, riding on bump stops or the actual suspension arms making contact somewhere.[/QUOTE]
Thanks, Colin. I always appreciate your input. I’m just frustrated, cause I’m only trying to fit the wheel-wells to the tires. I don’t want to go to any extremes. I’m habing a difficult time seeing how so little, can be so much trouble.
Generally when you’re lowering it that much you’re on that limit of running out of suspension travel. People are lazy and rarely do the work necessary to set ride height correctly. It’s time consuming but it’s the right way to do it, and well worth it.
- On level ground measure the distance from wheel center line directly up to the fender (front and rear) and record that number.
- Jack up the car and put on jack stands. Remove wheels/tires, and remove the springs but keep the shocks mounted to the suspension.
- Place a jack under the LCA and jack up the suspension so you can see the suspension components go thru their range of motion. When the UCA hits the inner strut tower, write down the distance between the wheel center line (axle center line) and the fender. When the shock hits the bump stop, write down that same distance…etc
Having those measurements will help you know how low you can go before things start to make contact. Of course you then still need to factor in that the suspension is not static and that it will move up/down when you go over bumps. To know how much compression travel you are using you can simply put a zip tie around the piston rod of your shock and slide it all the way down to the bump stop. Then drive the car around under normal conditions. Jack the car up again and see where the zip tie is. It will have been pushed upwards to show the maximum compression travel (how far the bump stop gets to the top hat).
Thanks again, Colin.!!! That is excellent information. 
I am DEF going to try your suggestion with the wire-tie, and see how much movement there is. I used Skunk2 lowering coils and upper control arms, so there wasn’t any adjusting. I “assumed” the research had already been done, and I was gonna be safe. Guess I need to stop being cheap, and get me some adjustables. I see Ground Control has Eibach and can be oredered with specific springs rates. I love the way the car rides and handles on stock springs. The “lifted/off-road” look doesn’t do much for me, though. lol