So I noticed this thing and didn’t know when it started to happen and it’s just weird. So as soon as I turn off the car and take the key out, the AC fan starts running, and it’s won’t stop until I disconnect the battery. when I reconnect the battery, it starts working again… I have no idea why this happened. What should I check? where are these electronic stuff located?
the condenser fan, [AC fan] is controlled by the condenser fan relay, the first thing I would check is the relay itself, it may be stuck on.
The relay is controlled by the A/C pressure switch, 12V+ goes through the A/C pressure switch, [from the A/C on switch] to the A/C thermostat and through it to the A/C diode pack that also turns on the radiator fan.
Because only the condenser fan is staying on, tells me the A/C on switch, A/C pressure switch, A/C thermostat and A/C diode pack are all probably good, and it is the relay that is bad or the relay control is shorted to ground, both are after the diode pack, if the problem was before the diode pack the rad fan would also be on.:whisper:94
can it be something that’s plugged backwards? cuz whats happening is that when I turn on the engine, the AC fan is off, as soon as I turn off the engine, the AC fan comes on…
Anything is possible, what have you been doing to the car that could have resulted in something being connected “backwards”?
Pull the A/C relay and see what happens.
BTW does the A/C work?:hmm:94
so where should I find the relay? is it located in the engine bay or is it inside the car?
A/C relay should be in under hood fuse/relay box.:dozing: 94
how do I test the relay?
Easiest way is to plug another relay into the slot, however, I do not think there are any relays in the under hood fuse box of a G2.:shrug:
I found a shitty pix in my Haynes manual, it’s shitty because you can’t really tell unless you can look at the car, and the description “Integra condenser cooling fan relay location (arrow)” jeeezzz not even a general engine bay location, at least the pix for the rad fan relay is obvious,
[on rad support, inside, right in front of batt.]
It could be a pix of the pass. side firewall, engine bay side, I can see A/C lines, [vapor] one is just above and to the right of the relay, an almost U shaped aluminum vapor line.
Sorry best I can do.
To test relay, with the fan on, unplug the fan relay, if the fan stops, you have the right relay, now carefully plug it back in and feel for the “click”, if the relay is working you will feel and even hear the click.
If so, the relay is not the problem.
The relay is being “triggered” and that can be done by the “Engine Oil Temperature Switch”, even with ign. off, if oil temp. is 226 degrees F, the switch closes, supplying the “Radiator Fan Control Module” with a ground, [this assumes the car is usdm, Canadian models do not have a RFCM] the timer in the RFCM will keep the fan on for up to 15 min. if the EOTS is closed, to test you can turn off the ign. and time the fan, or you can unplug the EOTS, [the switch is screwed into the engine block in the rear, firewall side, not sure if it has 1 or 2 leads, one will be green/white, the other one, if there, will be black, if fans work normally, the EOTS is defective, [closed at all times], you can confirm this by testing for continuity between the two terminals, [if 2 leads] and chassis ground and green/white lead, [if 1 lead].
If condenser fan continues to run after unplugging EOTS, the problem is not the EOTS and is probably the RFCM.:idea: 94
so, soory, I think I should have mentioned this before all this. so the fan that’s staying on is one on the driving side, and it’s weird because when I turn off the car, the fan comes right on, but when I turn the key to on possision, it stops…
It’s probably not the engine temp oil switch thing because I waited until the car is cold, I turn the key to on (not starting the car), nothign happened, and then turn it off, the fan comes right on… weird…
so in order to turn the fan off, I have to unplug the negative end of the battery, then I’ll hear a “click” sound, and then when I plug in the battery again, the fan doesn’t come on… It seems to me that something is connected backwards, but it just happened all of a sudden…
I believe the right hand fan is the radiator fan, on a G2, test by unplugging “Cooling Fan Relay”, [rad fan], the CFR is located right in front of batt.
The “click” you hear is probably coming from the CFR, if so, it still comes down to the "Radiator Fan Control Module, it is the only thing that can keep the fan on, other then the “Engine Coolant Temperature Switch”, [located on back of motor fire wall side, screwed into cylinder head, again there may be 1 or 2 wires, one of them will be yellow/green the other will be black, unplug the ECTS, if problem still there then the RFCM is the problem, it is attatched to the right side of heater unit.:sipread:94
so here’s the thing,
if I unplug this
the fan won’t come one when I turn the ignition off, if it’s plug in, then no matter when I turn off the ignition the fan come up. Is this the Engine Oil Temperature Switch? is this normal? I thought according to fcm, it’ll only come on when the oil temp if more than 226 F
Sorry, not sure what switch/sensor that is, the engine oil temperature switch is located at back, [firewall] of engine, screwed into engine block. according to my Haynes manual.
What color are the wires going to the plug?:hmm: 94