Shot off an e-mail to Colin.
Right but in order for the car to be allowed to fire up wouldn’t the CEL have to be off? It stays on and you never get that 2nd click from the MFR.
I picked up another MFR from a working car the other day and still no dice. More or less ruled that out. Checked MFR fuses and they’re good as well. Going to try and find an ECU at the junkyard later today…/crossing fingers!
Thanks,
Yea the check engine light has to go off for the car to start but what makes the c/e light go off is the second click in the MFR. The signal that makes the relay click and turns the c/e light off comes from the ecu. Thats why I would think that is the problem.
That’s not 100% correct. If the car is throwing a code the light will stay on. Whether or not the car will start depends on what the problem is.
The fact of the matter is he needs to stop getting advice about what it might be, and start doing some work to actually find out. Step one is checking the ECU to see what code it gives him.
Thats true but he said his c/e light would go off and it would crank right up.
Like I said I have the same exact problem with my car at the moment. It’s not a DD so I’m not that worried about it right now but I am curious to find out the problem with yours. It’s always worse when the car hasn’t been driven for a few days. I just went outside to try to start mine and left the key on for about 30 minutes and my check engine light never went off. So mine is getting worse. I know its a fuel problem for me because I have a fuel pressure regulator and I have no fuel pressure when the c/e light is on but as soon as it turns off, I get fuel pressure and the car cranks up fine. And it always cranks up fine if shut it off and start is back up.
Regardless of your problem, the statement was wrong and misleading. And either way, it’s not an assumption he should be making. Especially since he already tried another MFR and that didn’t fix his problem.
Dude I’m not saying that the problem is his MFR. Ive changed mine also and it didn’t help but the symptoms are very similar to a bad MFR. We have identical problems right now and I can even show you threads where I posted up for help on this issue and didn’t get much help(from other sites) and now I’m trying to help him narrow it down with the knowledge I have from my situation.
Why should he not assume that? I don’t think its a coincidence that as soon as his c/e light goes off, his car fires up. So in his case, I was right about the c/e light which is what we are talking about now. Generally speaking, it wouldn’t be a correct statement but knowing that he doesn’t have any codes told me that his c/e should be shutting off.
Calm down buddy. All I’m saying is all of these suggestions are pointless, it’s like randomly thinking it’s one thing or another - that’s not productive. There’s an order of operations when troubleshooting a problem like this. He’s wasting his time unless he starts anywhere but checking the CEL.
Well if he doesn’t have a c/e light when the car is running, he won’t be able to pull a code. I just tried to pull a code on my car while the c/e light was on but got no code at all (jumped the wire while the key was in the on position). When the car is running, I get no c/e light at all. It was a good idea( that i should have thought of) but it didn’t work.
If the CEL is on and not giving codes, but will not turn off, the procedure is different. Check the troubleshooting procedure in the Helms, page 11-49. It’s more than just pulling a code. If you actually read the procedure for “car not starting” a portion of the instructions deal SPECIFICALLY with the CEL staying on or not coming on at all. There is a procedure you follow to test various things. I did a quick read through and it looks like most of the tests are done to see if there are open wires, shorts, blown fuses, bad sensors…etc
All I have are some wiring diagrams for the car. I didnt know about these other procedures. You mind shooting me an email of the helms manual?
bcg501@jaguar1.usouthal.edu ----- NM dont send to that email. Send it to sportsman1539@yahoo.com
[QUOTE=sportsman1539;2146163]All I have are some wiring diagrams for the car. I didnt know about these other procedures. You mind shooting me an email of the helms manual?
bcg501@jaguar1.usouthal.edu ----- NM dont send to that email. Send it to sportsman1539@yahoo.com[/QUOTE]
Sorry, I can’t provide digital copies of the Helms.
http://www.torrentreactor.net/torrents/2246633/Acura-Integra-1990-1993-Helms-Repair-Manual
That should work
um?
do you guys mean helms manual or haynes manuel?
i have this same problem engine light comes on wont go off . if i check the light will not blink but if i mess with the mfr enough light will go off and i have changed relays 3 times i own a xsi and a red gsr and now my 93 ls. and thats what the problem is on the ls… thanks guys.
bumppp!
bump!
bump
bump again
Helms manual. Haynes is crap, use it to start your campfire.
Not sure if that guy’s link works or if use torrents. But you can definitely use the Helms to troubleshoot your problem. I haven’t done it personally cause I’ve never had that problem, but I did read thru the manual while discussing this topic previously and there are procedures in there for troubleshooting both the CEL not coming on at all and staying lit constantly.
:read:
haha!
ok is it too much for you to put on here? lol man because we changed the §§§§§ and light went off it started up ran really good for about 15 min then i shut her off and tryied starting the car and the cel stayed on and would not start. i pressed and pressed on the mfr and the cel would not shut off before it would shut off! now it wont.
thanks.
o and where do i get a helms manuel?
ok
where do i get a helms manuel from? 
Just thought I would verify that indeed the ECU is what fixed my problem that was identical to the problem the OP was having. I hope this helps people with similar issues.
I am fighting similar problems. I am wondering if there is a timer on when the key gets turned and the c/e light comes on. I can let the c/e light, ign on for a minute and then the c/e light goes out, the mfr goes on for the 2 sec fuel pressure and it will start. but I have to wait untill that c/e light goes out before it starts.
Is there a timer for that stage. Can it take a minute for the ecu to check what it does then give the c/e light the ok to go off signaling that the car will start. On normal cars, can’t you just turn the key and it starts or is there a delay for that 2 second fuel surge from the mfr turning on?
So again, like the previous guy, my only problem is a delay for the mfr second relay to click on, that primes the fuel system along with the c/e light going out. We have to wait though, otherwise the engine will not start!