I started putting my Viper 791xv into my 90’ GS today and realize I need alot of help. I’m comfortable with wiring it and everything, I’m just not sure where to access all the wires that I need and where the best place to put everything is. I’m also not sure what wires I can eliminate from the alarm harnesses. I just want a pretty simple alarm so I’m figuring alot of it can go. First of all I’m not using the remote start. I also don’t care about any kind of starter kill or anything (car already has kill switches). The car has no power locks so that is not needed. I basically just want to wire up the bare minimum of what is needed to make this thing work. I also have a DEI battery back-up to install.
So I guess first thing would be to eliminate wires not needed. I’m pretty sure all I need is the red, brown, black, green, and white wires from the H1 harness and just the gray wire from the H3 harness. Is that correct?
In the manual it says the H3 harness is the remote start harness. I don’t need anything else off it because it is all remote start related but the gray wire on it is for the hood pin switch which I want hooked up.
And I was talking to this guy about installing my alarm and he told me some things I’m unsure about. He said I can run both the red and white wires on the H1 harness to the fusebox under the dash. He said there would be free pins for both those wires that I could just plug into. I know about the constant power free pin but is there also another pin that would control the parking lights flash for the white wire? If so, which one?
He also said I need some other wires. One was the blue wire on H1 harness. It says in the manual it’s H1/7 (-) multiplexed input, zone 4. What would I need that for and what would it do? And then he said I need a 12V ign. that I could also find in the underdash fuse box, but did not say which wire to hook up to it. All he said was I needed that so the alarm knew when the car was on. But I don’t know what wire on the alarm would do that. There is nothing like that on the H1 harness.
Does this guy know what he is talking about? Do I really need to add those?
Next question is, where is the best spot to access the door trigger wire for the green wire on the H1 harness? I heard some say under the back seat and others say under the door sill/carpet on the driver side. Which spot is better? Will that be able to sense if both doors? What about the trunk? And the last bit of wiring I’m unsure about is how to hook up the horn honk feature.
Then I’m not sure on where to mount the shock sensor. Where is the best spot in the car for it to work the best?
Thanks for the help so far, I’ve never installed anything other than a deck and a few amps.
I have a wiring sheet just like that but it seems most of those wires I’m asking about are easier to find elsewhere or are accessable through the underdash fuse box. That is why I’m asking the questions above. Why cut into the ignition switch harness when I can use a free pin under the dash?
You will need…
H1/2 red 12V constant.
H1/3 brown power to siren.
H1/5 black ground
H1/7 blue trunk/hatch trigger
H1/8 green door trigger
H1/11 white light flash
H3/4 gray hood pin
You will need the #2 pin, [yellow] of the 7 pin ribbon harness for the ign. input to alarm, must be “true ign.”, [hot in run and start].
The only free pins you could use are the constant 12V+ and the park light free pin, there is no true ign. free pin, I do not recommend using the free pins for alarms, too easy to find and disable alarm.
You also do not need to cut into any wire, all wires run to a plug at some point, the plug has a metal pin, de-pin the lead you need and solder the alarm lead to the pins shank. 94
Thanks for the info FCM! I’m doing a battery backup though so I’m not all that worried about hiding those wires to the fuse box. Even if they pulled them both the lights would just stop flashing, the siren and horn would continue to go off.
And thanks for the heads up about the blue H1/7 wire, I was wondering what that was supposed to do and how my alarm was to sense the tunk. Where is the best place to tap into the trunk trigger? And the door triggers so it reads both doors? I know it says the driver kick panel in those wiring sheets, but I’ve been told there are other areas which are way easier to get to the wires. I think I heard under the backseat on the driver side is the best place to find the door trigger. So I’m not eaxctly sure where I should try looking for them.
And the last question is, how do I hook up the horn honk? I’m completely lost on that.
I just realized also, the yellow wire your talking about is on the ribbon harness and has plugs on both ends. Should I just de-pin all the wires out of one of the plugs and use that plug to put a unused single wire from another harness to run to the 12v ignition?
For the yellow lead in the ribbon harness, de-pin all but the yellow lead and plug that into the alarm brain.
You used to be able to re-pin H1/4 with an unused lead and use it for the ign. input, you no longer can, [DEI stopped including the trace on the circuit board] so you have to use the single yellow lead in the ribbon harness plug.
If you are adding a BB yo should add a relay to the light flash circuit so you have no light flash if system is running off the BB, it will extend alarm time on the BB, [park lights draw a lot of current].
Connect the BB output trigger to the hood pin input, [along with hood pin] and you will not need diodes, [like you would if connecting to the blue lead along with the trunk pin.
Both the trunk and door pin leads can be found at the under dash fuse box, doors will be in harness/plug running to dome light and trunk/hatch will be in harness/plug running to rear of car.
Use H4/2 brown for horn, connect to blue/red in steering wheel harness. 94
Thanks FCM, I have just about everything done except the battery back-up and piezo siren. So far I have the BB grounded and the gray wire soldered to the alarm brains 12v constant red wire. I then have the red constant 12v wire from the BB ran to the constant 12v free pin in the fuse box. I was wondering now, if I tap the blue wire on the BB into the hood pin wire from the alarm brain does that mean it would only be triggered if the hood was opened? I’m wondering since my constant 12v for my alarm is connected to my fuse box. So would the BB still work if the constant 12v was disconnected at the fuse box and the hood pin was never triggered?
And for the piezo siren, do I simply tap the positive and negative wires into the main sirens positive and negative wires? If so, is there a way to protect the piezo siren against being shorted out through the main siren if a thief was to get to it?
Sorry if these are dumb questions, I’ve never hooked these up before.
Oh, and I wanted to double check with you to see if what I did with the igntion wire was okay. I just de-pinned the plug from the ribbon harness and put the violet/white tach input wire from the H3 harness into the yellow igntion wires place. The violet/white tach wire had the same size connector on the end of it so it fit into the ribbon harness plug perfectly and was plenty long to reach the fuse box.
I’m asking if this okay because my buddy saw this and said it was way too small of a guage wire for the 12v ignition. He then showed me his and it was a much fatter wire. Does it really matter? I kinda already crimped and soldered it to the yellow/black igntion wire at the fuse box. I checked the violet/white wires size against the yellow igntition wire that is supposed to be in the plug before I did this though and the wires were pretty much the same size, so I figured I would be oaky. Should I change this?
The blue lead from the BB is an “output”, if for any reason the BB red 12V constant lead loses power the BB circuit will supply a ground output on the BB blue lead, as long as the BB blue lead is connected to a ground input trigger of the alarm, [like the hood pin lead] the alarm will trigger, [even if hood is not opened].
Yes, the piezo siren can be paralleled with the main siren.
The ign. input into the alarm is low current, [less then 250mA] so the violet/white tech wire is more then thick enough. 94
PS… there are no dumb questions, just dumb answers.:whisper:
Thanks for all the help, it’s the first alarm I’ve actually done. So everything is all hooked up and it’s working great but I do have two last questions for you.
So for my piezo siren I just tapped into the red and black wires on the main siren. Is there a way to protect the piezo from being shorted out by the main sirens wires if a thief got to them? I’m thinking adding some fuses after the piezo would work but not sure exactly what I would need and if both wires would need to be fused or just the power. I just don’t want someone to get to my main siren and be able to short out the back-up siren.
And my second question is, how does the led light come apart? I was being dumb and I ran the wire to the spot I wanted it but didnt drill a hole in my console before I mounted the brain and covered up everything. And it doesnt seem you can mount the led without running it’s harness through the hole first. It looks like it comes apart though I just didn’t want to try too hard since I don’t know how to take it apart.