So if you had the same issue i had with my 92 integra ls where the car would run fine at cold start but once it warms up than the car starts to spudder or misfire its one of two scenarios i found for my case . Always put a screwdriver(long one) an hold it against the fuel injector to your ear an listen for a clicking. If all 4 are clicking than not your injectors . Try a new ect (coolant temp sensor) on the side of the head . Sometimes that causes that to spudder when it dont know when its hot or cold. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW ONE BECAUSE THEY DO BREAK EASY. My case was fuel. Someone put rough gas through the car before i owned it , so i drained it an put some injector cleaner (Berryman from oreilys) with some good gas an boom works just fine. Hope this helps the next guy who had the same issue i had.
This is great info. thanks for posting.
I’ve had a similar issue for a while as well. I tried a good few things and nothing seemed to work.
- new tank (was incredibly rusty), fuel pump assembly(also rusty), filter, injectors, FPR
- cleaned and resealed IACV
- replaced old vacuum lines
- new ground wires
- new distributor cap, rotor, coil, plugs and wires
Turns out my problem was in my ignition system. I was getting an arc from the ignition coil to the distributor cap which was burning away the plastic on both sides of the contact and charring the contact surfaces. The inside of my distributor was also dirty and moist and a bit oily. The previous owner(s) probably hadn’t changed the cap o-ring in more than a decade and it was coming apart. the moisture inside the distributor had also corroded the contacts on the ICM. Also it turns out I was using non-matching wires and plugs. I had OEM CRV wires and integra plugs, which were probably not connecting properly due to the difference in length of the insulator on the crv vs integra plugs. I rebuilt and carefully cleaned the whole distributor, cleaned the contacts on the ICM and the ignition coil wires, and used copper grease or dielectric grease in places to aid conductivity and prevent corrosion or prevent arcing. I also switched to integra wires (NGK), and replaced the distributor cap seal. This seems to have fixed the problem for me (knock on wood). I guess with the ignition being so finicky on these cars everything needs to match and be clean as a whistle to operate properly.
Time will tell if this was the long term solution for me. I’m replacing the ECT sensor and the intake manifold temperature sensor next to follow your advice (and they were cheap as chips on rockauto).
would be interesting to know what worked for others to fix their stumbling/misfires since this seems to be a very common problem with 90s hondas
