Horn/Cruise not working

ASSISTANCE Electrical & Entertainment Systems
1

Problem : Neither the cruise control or my horn works

Checks:
Under hood Fuse - ok
Meter to horn leads - not getting any type of power and theres no shorts =(
Direct horn check - works fine when placed on pos/neg termals of battery
Switched the horn slip ring

haven’t done anything to check the cruise control because the last time my cruise and horn didn’t work, I replaced the horn and made a solid connection and they started working, so I’ve been working on my horn rather than cruise…

Im looking at my wiring diagram and it says fuse 23 and 24 are connected to the cruise system… what else are those connected to?

as far as I know… everything else is functional… I can’t figure out why Im getting no power to my horn (when I press the button or not)

Please let me know, I’ve been searching around, and alot of it is telling the person to check if there is power to the horn terminals… there isn’t any, so Im not sure what to look for…

anyone? :frowning: I can provide information as thorough as I can if asked for it! please help!

2

Fuse 37 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under hood fuse box is power for the horn(s), there should be power on the white/green at horn(s) at all times.

If you do not have power at the horn(s) and fuse 37 is good, you have a connection problem between the fuse and the horn(s).

Fuse 37 is also the brake light fuse, it is also a “shut down” for the CC when you step on the brake.

Fuse 24 is main power for CC in 92-93 G2s as well as switched power, [all G2s] through CC main switch.

Do you have a multimeter, if not borrow or buy one, electrical problems can almost always, [99.9% of the time] be found with a meter.

In this case the horn(s) are not working because they have no power, ground is supplied by the horn button, a multimeter can confirm the horn(s) are getting a ground, [blue/red lead at horn(s)] when horn button is pressed. 94

3

as stated, I did test with a meter… and yeah, I’m a EST, so yeah, I’ve checked that, I’ve taken apart the steering wheel and noticed the ground is supplied by the button… I’m getting no power at the horn, =( are the other 2 fuses (not 37) located under the kick panel in the fuse box? I’m pretty sure I check all of those fuses… or is there a seperate fuse I can check?..

how would I go about checking lines from the fuse to the horn powers?

is there another reason other than the fuse that could be causing my CC/horn issue?

also I know where my passenger horn is located… but where is my driver on? 92 teggy GS

4

your driver one is in the same place on the driver side. do your brake lights work? i believe the horn is ran through the brake light fuse

5

yeah my brake lights are fully funtional… (I think the previous owner ran my horn to another spot, as it is currentlly easily accessible… its right under my short ram… and the driver horn is not near that… as the horn would be by my washer fluid tank… I hear you might have to take off the front bumper???

that aside any help otherwise? :frowning: (WTB CRUISE CONTROL)

6

Fuse 23 - 10A, [hot in start and run] is power for the CC indicator in the gauge cluster.
Fuse 24 - 15A, [hot in run and start] is main power for CC, through CCS, [cruise control switch].
Both the above are in the under dash fuse box.

Fuse 37 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under hood fuse box, is power for the horns, [white/green] it is also a CC “shut down”, [through brake switch] and as mentioned it is also power for the brake lights.

If fuse 37 is good, [brake lights work] and you have no power at the horn(s), [white/green] you will have to trace the white/green back until you find the connection problem, maybe a plug on engine bay harness is not plugged in properly, or a break along the way.

If you have a meter you can check and see if you get a ground at the horn(s), [blue/red] when you press the horn button, jus to make sure that side of the circuit is working, [horn button/slip ring].

The test the CC you will need to get to the CC unit and test the wiring to it.

Black/yellow, [92-93] 12V+, fuse 24.
Light green, 12V+, from CCs and fuse 24.
Gray, 12V+ from CCS, [through brake switch] and fuse 24.
Green/white, 12V+, from brake light switch, when braking.
Blue, tach signal, from distributor assembly.
Black, ground.
Light green/red and light green/black, grounds when CC set and resume switch pressed.
Red, ground output when CC is on, [to CC indicator light].
Yellow/red, VSS input, from gauge cluster.
Brown and brown/black are CC actuator control.
Brown/white 12V+ output to CC actuator clutch.
Pink, ground input from A/T Gear Position Switch, [must be in gear] or Clutch Interlock Switch, [when not depressed]. 94

7

[QUOTE=fcm;2037506]Fuse 23 - 10A, [hot in start and run] is power for the CC indicator in the gauge cluster.
Fuse 24 - 15A, [hot in run and start] is main power for CC, through CCS, [cruise control switch].
Both the above are in the under dash fuse box.

Fuse 37 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under hood fuse box, is power for the horns, [white/green] it is also a CC “shut down”, [through brake switch] and as mentioned it is also power for the brake lights.

If fuse 37 is good, [brake lights work] and you have no power at the horn(s), [white/green] you will have to trace the white/green back until you find the connection problem, maybe a plug on engine bay harness is not plugged in properly, or a break along the way.

If you have a meter you can check and see if you get a ground at the horn(s), [blue/red] when you press the horn button, jus to make sure that side of the circuit is working, [horn button/slip ring].

The test the CC you will need to get to the CC unit and test the wiring to it.

Black/yellow, [92-93] 12V+, fuse 24.
Light green, 12V+, from CCs and fuse 24.
Gray, 12V+ from CCS, [through brake switch] and fuse 24.
Green/white, 12V+, from brake light switch, when braking.
Blue, tach signal, from distributor assembly.
Black, ground.
Light green/red and light green/black, grounds when CC set and resume switch pressed.
Red, ground output when CC is on, [to CC indicator light].
Yellow/red, VSS input, from gauge cluster.
Brown and brown/black are CC actuator control.
Brown/white 12V+ output to CC actuator clutch.
Pink, ground input from A/T Gear Position Switch, [must be in gear] or Clutch Interlock Switch, [when not depressed]. 94[/QUOTE]

will do this in the next day or 2 thanks, will return with results!

8

so I checked my ground via horn pressing thats all good, I can’t figure out why I’m not getting any power to the green/white… Im having a hard time tracing it because they junction to a mass set, then re-junction to another 3, then another 3 which hits 3 relays… its all confusing lol! Imma grab my toner and sniffer hopefully I can trace it out that way, and subsequently find the break in the line… if there is one, just so I have information to use at the time: if I fail to find a break in the line, what would be my next step?

9

Run a fused line, [20A] from batt, to horns white/green. 94

10

you mean splice into it at a random point on the line? its twisted pretty well into the rest of the wires going in the same direction, thus creating confusion on my side, plus, the green white looks like blue to me (you should see me check 4 times when Im doing a rj45 crimp) does anyone know which of the 3 relays on the passenger side is the horn relay?

11

There is no relay for power to the horn, it is direct from fuse
37.

Again, run a fused lead from the batt. to the horns white/green, [at the horn]. 94

12

[QUOTE=fcm;2038566]There is no relay for power to the horn, it is direct from fuse
37.

Again, run a fused lead from the batt. to the horns white/green, [at the horn]. 94[/QUOTE]

hmmm… I understand what you’re asking me to do now haha… but Im confused on what I would try to accomplish with this?

I must be having a brain fart… sorry fcm, and thanks for the help man…

13

found the problem… it was corosion on the splice line that the previous owner did to move the horn… stuck my ground terminal of my multimeter onto my ground of my battery, and probbed the greenwhite wire along the way… where ever it showed power was good… where ever it didn’t before that it was bad… trial and error…

my cruise also started working… thanks alot for the help :slight_smile:

14

:up:94

15

I’m having the same problem as well… Basically what you’re saying is, if all the fuses check out, check the ground wire on the horn?