how do i make my daily driver have more power and be reliable?

so i got a 91 integra ls special. 130k original miles. any good engine mods for daily driving but make a lil bit power? im also planning to strip the back interior.:cool:

your standard intake header exhaust. and a good tune.
although you live in CA. so good luck doing anything with your car and not getting tickets for it.

use the search function. this question has been asked a million times, and is answered a million times.
look at people build threads, you will find your information.

you have to be more specific in your question. How much power? OEM 300k no major problem reliability?? IMO. you either get one or the other and its just a mater of finding a happy ballance if you plan it right.

Agreed about the cali comment. perhaps an oem rebuild with a slight over bore and replacement of all the typical know parts that go bad(I.E. fuel pump, TA bushings, stearing and suspension) it will fell like a new car!

low boost and a “GOOD” if not great tune is another option. A nice bump in power and should remain fairly reliable if you can manage to keep from turning up the juice :smiley:

you can start with a carb legal skunk2 intake manifold, handata i/m gasket, 65mm t/b AEM intake, dc carb headers and new open catback system no bigger than 2 1/4

you can advance the timing a few degrees. this will free up a little power and help with fuel mileage. i think i have mine set at 20* btdc. i have a b20b though, lower compression

You should add a set of cams to this even if they are only a stage 2 in order to take advantage of the extra airflow.

Double post

yeah i live in cali so i want my car to pass emissions, will it pass smog if i do cams?

Head work will get you a fair amout of HP, a port and polish, better valvetrain, [cams/springs] add to that any legal air in, [TB, ITM, CAI or SR] and air out, [header/exhaust, high flow cat]

I run a 75 shot Zex, [No2] system. 94

No it wont unless you buy the skunk2 tuner stg1 cams. adding any bigger cams wont do much since your stock head wont flow anymore than what it was designed to with the stock cams. At the end you will notice a bump in hp after its all said and done but if you really want a big notice then save your money for a gsr 1.8 swap.
you will run into new dilemas since its not legal until you bar the new swap with the state reff, thats a new can of worms so u can do a quick search under state reff…

you guys are giving the worst advice lol… when ppl think about going fast they automatically think about the engine… adding cams… boltons ect… which is good… but ppl always over look one of the most important things… THE TRANSMISSION!! the best mod you can do for an LS motor is TRANSMISISON. get you’re self a short gear tranny (b16 transmission) with a fidanza flywheel… and a stage 1 clutch… you’re acceleration will go trough the roof!! =D no exhaust, header or intake mod can ever come close to the result of a short gear trans and flywheel. best money you will ever spend. it will give you’re car a whole new personality… and make it twice as fun to drive… and heck you can even add a higher FINAL DRIVE in the transmission for the ultimate in acceleration… =P and if you later decide to do some type of swap… GSR… B20… b16… you already have a tranny ready to go…

^^have to agree there. trans>engine

oh and by the way… i noiticed how u put the 92 93 bumper on ur 91 ls… great job… taste full mod… cant stand that ugly boxy 90 91 bumper… love the white.

matter of opinion, i suppose. don’t get me wrong, i think the factory did a great job with the 92-93 front. gives the car a much “newer” look. but to me, the boxy “older” looking front compliments the body lines of this late eighties/early nineties era car. i guess i like the sharper edges of the older crap. like ef’s and whatnot.
but ye, op, try and find a j1, jdm ys1, or y1. lsd would be a bigtime bonus. and while the trans is out, think about swapping in an ls 5th gear set

yeah tranny is a 500-750 dollar upgrade worth every red cent, after that being in cali i would go turbo so you dont have to draw attention to your car and end up giving money up you can use for other things then sponsor local law inforcement. GT28R turbo will be perfect for pushing a stock ls motor 8 to 12 psi tuned and can be done for 1500 including tune. Rod bolts and Head studs should be replaced if u want to push that set up to its limit while keeping it reliable.

[QUOTE=da6xsi06;2188325]No it wont unless you buy the skunk2 tuner stg1 cams. adding any bigger cams wont do much since your stock head wont flow anymore than what it was designed to with the stock cams. At the end you will notice a bump in hp after its all said and done but if you really want a big notice then save your money for a gsr 1.8 swap.
you will run into new dilemas since its not legal until you bar the new swap with the state reff, thats a new can of worms so u can do a quick search under state reff…[/QUOTE]

I disagree with a proper tune, im pretty sure they will pass a smog test. with out one, it wont come close to passing. anyone care to confirm that for me!.

my whole point to my statement was that there is NO point in increasing the airflow if you dont add cams to let all that air into the cylinders. I know from personal experiece, adding a aftermarket IM with out cams with kill your tourqe levels. :frowning:

I also agree that running a shorter geared transmission will make a world of difference!

ywah its true, you have to get biiger cams like stg 1 tuner series from skunk2, I didnt mention that first since I assumed he only wanted basic bolt-ons. so after you get cams then have your intake port matched to your new throttle body for a consistant air flow.
and a short geared tranny is also a must.
I dont know if I should throw this up there since this can make or break you in the long, Id recommend a jdm b16 90-91 Y1 tranny since thats what ive been running since I bought my car. The gears on the Y1 are so short that your always in the power making RPM’s where you can feel the torque. You just clime rpms faster and get throguh the gears quicker, mY car felt lighter with it than the usdm ys1 tranny. the bad thing about the jdm Y1 is that its jdm so some usdm parts wont fit and 2nd thing is its a 88-91 tranny so you cant use parts from 92-01 trannys on it. Your going to have to do research and find a tranny shop that will rebuild it with a 1yr warrenty and use the same gears with the same teeth count.
The tranny shop had replaced all my gears with usdm Ys1 Ls gears so I gave them back my tranny with the box of original gears so they can count the teeth and get me the right ones. …

your second best bet is a 92-93 gsr ys1 tranny but then its hard to tell if its a real short gear gsr tranny or not since theyre both ys1…

side note: I love so see peoples Da when they first buy them, they always look good. It make me happy to see a old Da still looking good i guess.

a quick and dirty trick to finding out whether you have a short geared ys1 is to put the trans in 3rd, turn the input shaft and count the number of turns you get from the output shaft in relation to the input. unfortunately, i don’t know the exact numbers you’d be looking for. but if you find that out, it’s a lot easier than cracking the case open

oh and btw, you actually lose torque with shorter gears. remember torque=force x distance. the same amount of force multiplied by a shorter distance yields a lower torque value.
but on the other hand, a gear with 10 teeth moves exactly twice as fast as a gear with 20 teeth. (turns exactly twice as many times per revolution of the same counter gear). this is where you’re getting that raised rate of acceleration.
the laws give us the ability to calculate, with precision, the exact results of any given combination. it’s a beautiful thing, what the greatest minds have bestowed upon us

Why hasn’t anyone mentioned the “turbonator”???