I plan to change the clutch soon. I never did it before. Can somebody give me some detailed instructions? Remember i’m new to this stuff. Also what tools would I need?
It’s gonna be hard if you aren’t an experienced mechanic with a lot of tools. The instructions are so long, it would help you greatly to get the Helm’s (factory) service manual for your car. The process involves taking out the transmission, obviously. I’ve never done it but I read through it in the service manual and it looks like you need special tools. Maybe someone else that did it knows if you can get around that.
I had the clutch replaced and the flywheel resurfaced all for about $630, with a modest hookup.
Ben
The basics are the following
Remove the CV joints(both)
remove passenger side radius arm.
Disconnect all lines going into your transmission, speed cable, and oil lines and so on
disconnect and remove the tranny mount (make sure engine is being supported by a jack or something because removing that mount will allow the back to sway down
Remove all tranny bolts.
If you think its attached, remove it. Part of the engines rear mount is attached to the tranny and there are bolts that shield the tranny’s fly wheel.
Now pull the tranny free. it might take some prying to get it away from the engine but it will come off when you get all the bolts removed.
remember the input shaft will support the tranny for part of this so its important to not to put to much stress on it.
remove Tranny.
Now you should be able to figure out the rest. Just undo the bolts to the pressure plate and there you go.
Make sure you change your pilot bearing, throw out bearing, disc, pressure plate and get the fly wheel resurfaced. After all is done reverse the procedure and your done.
The best thing you can do at the end of your project is to sit back and go threw everthing you did to make sure there are no loose bolts or brackets. Cars like ours are not forgiving for a loose bracket or mount.
Have fun
Justin
Also,
the cv joint is held in by a 32millimeter bolt. Most common sizes are 10,12,14,17 and 19 mill. I use many different sockets and a nifty wrench I picked up from Home Depot. Its a Husky 3/8’s ratchet with a swiveling head and the handle has a slight bend in it. This thing is a life saver on cars like ours. Also, try to get yourself a set of “GearWrench” wrenchs. They’re combination wrenchs with a ratcheting closed end. Those save a lot of time. Can’t wait to get my air compressor. things will go so much faster.
Thanks
I second getting the Helms manual if your going to do any serious type work on your Integra. Has all the info. u need, and is always a good reference. Helps out in preplanning your next project and getting everythin setup before you get started.
CT
A few notes after installing my first clutch last year:
Once you have both the front end jacked AND the tranny supported by a floor jack or something adjustable on the fly, lower the tranny itself a few inches.
The only mount that should be attached anymore is the driver’s side and this will allow for the whole engine/tranny to sway down a bit so you can get the tranny actually out of the engine bay.
ALso, you’ll need some 12 point sockets for the flywheel. Be careful as they are shallow bolts and can strep easily so keep the downforce pressure hard while turning. Its probably jsut a good idea to ask for new bolts from wherever you bought the clutch or a shop. Mine gave some used but good ones for free as a few of them were pre-damaged and I messed up one or two. Getting them off was a bitch but putting them back on was easy.
Have a cheater bar handy, I used one for practically every bolt on the job.
Be very gentle with the speedo cable. I think mine was about to go anyway at 168K miles but once removed and reinstalled, it does not work.
While you have everything out, bust out the engine cleaner and get rid of that grime.
Also, its a good time to do whatever else you can before reassembing everything.
During my job, I also noticed I needed a new front engine mount as the middle rubber part had separated ($50 from dealer only) and a driver’s side complete axle ($125) as it had gone into “floating joint” mode.
I refilled the tranny with Redline MTL.
Make sure you adjust clutch as you put more miles on it.
js