Hello all,
How do you change the licence plate light.
Looks like on the right side there is a red and a black wire.
Not connected to anything. Its that normal? Guessing not.
Cannot find where to stick my fingers to remove the bulb.
Also is the fuse for that in the engine compartement or beside the driver side?
Thx.
I did search no luck.
The license plate lights, [there are 2 of them] have a red/black wire, [12V+ fuse 1 - 15A in under dash fuse box “beside the driver side”]and a black wire, [ground, and is grounded in the rear] the red/black wire is split into 2 close to the “Trailer Lighting Connector” one splits again and goes to the left and right tail lights and the other splits again and goes to the 2 license plate lights.
To chance licence plate light bulbs, remove the lens, [2 screw each] rotate the bulb holder 1/8 turn counter-clockwise and detach it from the lens housing, pull bulb straight out of the holder.
This is straight out of the Haynes manual, if you are going to work on your car you should get one, [number 12021 Acura Integra and Legend] covers 90 thru 93 Integras. It and a $20 DVM and you can trouble shoot 95% of the electrical in your car, also you wouldn’t have had to come on g2 to find out how to change a light bulb. :rimshot: 94
Thx, too damn cold to really look behind the car.
I do have the Haynes manual, got to find it some where in the house.
Thx for the quick reply…
YW :sipread: 94
not to steal your post but… this is sort of related.
I’ve been attempting to change my licence plate light bulbs, but I cannot remove the bulb covers because the little screws are either rusted in place or limed in place. In any case, they are extremely corroded, and unscrewing them conventionally is not possible.
Does anyone have any ideas as to how I could remove them without damaging the bulb housing? (i’ll obviously get new screws and clean the area after I get these out)
Thanks
In our shop we use a product that’s called “Release It” that we get at the corner auto parts store, [Lordco] best product I have found for stubborn nuts, bolts and screws, spray it on leave it for a minute, works every time, also with screws it really helps to find a screwdriver that fits exactly, you would think all #8 Philips would be the same, [not] I have 6 #8 Philips screwdrivers in my tool box, [not including my #8 "posidrive] they range from my Snap-on down to a $0.99 Sears driver I have had for some 30 years, and all 6 are just a little different, first I make sure the “slots” are clean using a “pick” some “Release It” and compressed air, then I find the screwdriver that fits the best, [snug fit with no movement in the “slots”] this has worked for many years for me. :whisper: 94
mines were all rusted to nothing. i dont think nothing can penatrate it cause it is screwed into plastic. lucky mines were off the bumper already. so i just took a vise grip at it. it was still tought but it came out. after i got it out i got new screws for it. havent really gotten to installing the lights back on the bumper but it worked with vise grips if everything else fails…
yeah like ^^^ I couldn’t posibly get a screwdriver into the slots. But I will try to find “Release It” or a similar product and maybe try turning them by grabbing them with a needle nose plyers or something.
I guess I should’ve tryed WD-40 or something… didn’t think to.
mine is rusted to death too
sprayed some wd-40 - see if that help.
else vise grip… damn little lights.
WD-40 is not very effective, [although it has many uses] that’s why we have “Release It” in our shop.
The right screwdriver and “Release It” has worked for use on the most stubborn seized screws, [and nuts and bolts].
Hint, replace with stainless steel screws, may cost a little more, but will never rust. :whisper: 94
whats the bulb number for a replacement bulb
update http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/AutoLRG-Results.htm
I am not sure what I am missing for my rear license plate light…???..When I was in the process of de-ricing this 93 GSR I noticed there were just a grounding wire with that metal insertion piece(black)and then theres red wire that just has a red tubing thing at the end (looks like a little tube)… I bought the bulbs and thought wait how the hell are these bulbs suppose to screw in…I bought the right bulbs…Am I missing something for this lighting…(Light harness)???so hard to explain over the internet…PLEASE help somehow…
-justin
i was thinking of getting some white LED bulbs to use insted of the dull stock bulbs. anyone have any ideas on the best way to accomplish this.
for the license plate lights mine are both rusted so i took a light socket that was lying around and wired it up and then attached it between both dead lights so that way it is considered legal since it is there. it does not show up the entire license just merely two letters. havent gotten in trouble for it yet.
Ok fcm I got a question for you, I went to replace my licence lights and pulled out two 168 size lights such as the turn signal bulbs. I put new ones in and it still doesnt work. I checked the fuse and the wiring. Any suggestions?
Do the cars park lights work?
If so you have a problem with the wiring to the licence plate lights, they are all on the same circuit.
I would check for power and ground at the bulb sockets, I would be guessing it’s a bad ground.:hmm:94
Hmmm the ground is what i was starting to think… what do you mean by park lights though?
Also what would I have to do to check the grounding or a possible rewire? Would I have to pull off the rear bumper you think?
and btw thanks for the help 
Park lights or running lights, all the outside lights that come on on the first position of the light switch, the licence plate lights are on that circuit.
A multimeter is the best way to test for power and grounds, but can also be done with a 12V test light, to test for 12V+ connect test light to ground and use probe to test for 12V+ on red/black lead, [center terminal in bulb socket] to test for ground connect test light to 12V+ and use probe to test for ground on the black lead, [inside casing of bulb socket.
To access wiring remove rear trim, [inside] you can then access the rubber grommet that the wiring for the licence plate lights goes through, you can trace, [fallow] the ground to it’s ground point from there, [ground will be inside of car].:whisper: 94
mine were extremely corroded as well. simple fix. stick a small screwdriver into the hole in the bottom and break away the plastic. to make it look better just take plyers to the rest of it and break the remaining plastic off. the rusted screws wouldnt come out for anything. after replacing the lights theyve been ok for over a year so far.