Originally posted by xenocron
[B]any change in gas mileage when switching to one of these EBAY chips?
also, could someone get an old ECU from a Junkyard car and solder a new chip in…and then just swap out the old ECU with no problems? [/B]
I wouldnt trust any chip from ebay. There are too many scammers on that site to make it worth buying one. For all you know you could be buying a stock program…
There will be a change in gas mileage because your going to be running optimized fuel and timing which will end up using more gas. When I switched to my PYR program I was using a crapload more fuel than when I was using my stock or Dinan programs.
oops i didnt mention im running bigger injectors so thats mainly the cause of the mpg drop. i dont think it should change much except from your heavier foot.
i dont think smog should be an issue either. the test only runs low rpms and you tweak mostly the mid-high end. besides that HEET stuff lowers the nox so dramatically you should pass with flying colors anyways.
I bought that radioshack solder sucker and it worked great. I chipped my teg’s pr4 (running my b20 prog in the beater a6, woo hoo, too much fuel and a low redline) and my friend’s pw0 (some cheezy feels program) with ease. The pins were bent in on the pw0 but I just moved them with the sucker tip.
Oh yeah, get ghettodyne. That launch control feature is really cool.
The led isnt doing anything, its just staying on, i checked the codes, and i figure it must be the ecu.
now i have the problem of trying to figure out if i damaged the board, or the ecu is faulty, or maybe i didnt install it properly…
Does your car run normal or are you getting a rev limit at about 3k?? If you damaged the ECU or installed a bad bin then your ECU will switch to limp mode to protect the engine from being damaged.
Thanks you you people, i persisted, and relaised that when desoldering the old chip i must have scratched a curcuit track, and had to solder a bridge to rejoin it. it was my own silly fault for rushing it.
The chip seems to be working fine.
Am i correct in saying that if the ecu flashing light isnt flashing. That the car is fine?
Because with the pproblem before the light stayed on and now its fixed, the light inside the ecu doesnt come on.
A huge thanks to you people for helping me out.
Wow, I cant believe that you guys are talking about me and my chips. Im an attention whore sometimes
Heres a tip for chipping computers that already have existing EPROM’s in them -
What I do is desolder the bottom of the chip first. I make sure that there is no solder on the bottom of the pins left. To double check that, I use a flat head screw driver and move the pin just to make sure its free for the most part.
This is thing that not to many people do and end up ruining thier computers - BEFORE you try to rip out the old chip thinking its completely desoldered, take a flat head screw driver and looking from the top side of the ecu, push the pins, from the bottom, of the chip in towards the chip itself. This will break the chip free. Alot of people just try and rip the chip out and end up pulling out the connection tabs with the chip. This makes things alot easier. You can also take the whole ecu board out of the casing and gentally pry the chip up with a flathead since the ecu’s basically have a clear coat on them so that makes everything stick.
Hope that helps people trying to do work on thier own
To a follow up to you guys, I do highly recommend the PYR and XS chip. I can finally work around on all PR4 chips and can add stupid features such as launch control and boost. If anyone needs a chip, you can email me. $25 shipped for any chip I have. We also do complete installs for people who arent brave enough to do it themselves. I also have 3 chipped PR4 ecu’s for sale too.
Originally posted by sileightyturbo
[B]Wow, I cant believe that you guys are talking about me and my chips. Im an attention whore sometimes
Heres a tip for chipping computers that already have existing EPROM’s in them -
What I do is desolder the bottom of the chip first. I make sure that there is no solder on the bottom of the pins left. To double check that, I use a flat head screw driver and move the pin just to make sure its free for the most part.
This is thing that not to many people do and end up ruining thier computers - BEFORE you try to rip out the old chip thinking its completely desoldered, take a flat head screw driver and looking from the top side of the ecu, push the pins, from the bottom, of the chip in towards the chip itself. This will break the chip free. Alot of people just try and rip the chip out and end up pulling out the connection tabs with the chip. This makes things alot easier. You can also take the whole ecu board out of the casing and gentally pry the chip up with a flathead since the ecu’s basically have a clear coat on them so that makes everything stick.
Hope that helps people trying to do work on thier own
To a follow up to you guys, I do highly recommend the PYR and XS chip. I can finally work around on all PR4 chips and can add stupid features such as launch control and boost. If anyone needs a chip, you can email me. $25 shipped for any chip I have. We also do complete installs for people who arent brave enough to do it themselves. I also have 3 chipped PR4 ecu’s for sale too.
Phaze2 [/B]
considering the diy topic, thats kinda steep for a $2 uv chip (at most used) with a commercial program on it. i hope its at least a flash rom.
anyways, i wouldnt mind sending one out for 10 or so. chipping is kinda a pain, id probably want at least 40 plus shipping.
I mean sure i could have brought a chip for 10$ US but i doubt it would come with a warranty and a guarantee thet it would work in my car. But from someone like slightlyturbo, i know he has produced items that have worked in cars similar to mine. And due to that fact i am sticking with him.
He’s not just out there to make money he is also there to help with us people that want to do a cheaper upgrade to a standard motor.
I for one will praise this guy for creating a produce worth buying and for the online help he gives with any problems.
Sleightlyturbo. i salute you.
This post may have been submitteted under an alcoholic substance, peace out.
Originally posted by sileightyturbo …take a flat head screw driver and looking from the top side of the ecu, push the pins, from the bottom, of the chip in towards the chip itself. This will break the chip free…
I’m slighty confused about this statement. Wouldnt you want to be looking at the pins you are pushing on so as NOT to bend them at all instead of looking at the opposite side of the ECU and pushing blindly?
Excuse me if Im dumb, but this is what I took that to mean. It would be of great help if you could clarify.
:shrug:
XDEep, have you installed ECU control? I saw some posts while reading at PGMFI.org and read the ecucontrol.com website and thought it looked pretty interesting. Although I gather that its pretty much a fancy display of guages for now, that could be useful and looks to be even more so in the future.
Anyone else using Ecu Control want to share there experience? It seems much safer to post here until I understand a little more about the honda ECU.
Originally posted by xenocron
[B]I’m slighty confused about this statement. Wouldnt you want to be looking at the pins you are pushing on so as NOT to bend them at all instead of looking at the opposite side of the ECU and pushing blindly?
Excuse me if Im dumb, but this is what I took that to mean. It would be of great help if you could clarify.
:shrug:
XDEep, have you installed ECU control? I saw some posts while reading at PGMFI.org and read the ecucontrol.com website and thought it looked pretty interesting. Although I gather that its pretty much a fancy display of guages for now, that could be useful and looks to be even more so in the future.
Anyone else using Ecu Control want to share there experience? It seems much safer to post here until I understand a little more about the honda ECU. [/B]
i think its hard to do that as well. if you think youve removed most of the solder just use some pliers to wiggle them loose.
